Light cycle

[Bogdan]

Do you think that 12 hr of total light per day is too much?

I have DIY 80W LEDs over 28G Nano JBJ (half white half blue) and run it via RA controller symulating sun rise and set. The actinics start first and after 1 hr the white get on then both increase gradually up to 85% of their intensity during 2hr period then stay on for 8 hr then gradually go down to 10% intensity over the period of 2 hr then white go off and the actinics stay on for 1 more hr. Total lights are on for 12 hr. Is this too much? My corals ( SPS, LPS softies) grow fine, not too fast but I do have a hair algae problem. How long do you run your lights? I would appreciate any comments.

[offroadodge]

I run mine 12 hrs, 200w of LEDs and 800w MHs. Everything seems fine. I don't have the sunrise sunset controller, I turn the UVs on 1st at 9:30 am, Blues 2nd, Whites 3rd, and then the MHs at 1:30pm. All are on till 9:30 pm and everything works in reverse with everything off at 10:00pm

[Bogdan]

Hi Offroad, thanks for your input, I am assuming you are algae free.

[jestep]

If your corals aren't bleaching, I would say you're fine as far as intensity goes. If you have excess NO3 and PO4 changing the lighting intensity is going to change the algae growth but not stop it.

[Bpb]

216 watts of t5 on my 55 gallon. 2 blues on from noon to 9, all 4 on from 1:30 to 8:30. I also have a hair algae issue.

[kingjames]

i run 24w blue leds for two hours, then 300w of halides for 8 hours then blues again, blues are low par so really only about 8 hours of full halides, only a little film alge on glass every couple days, if your running gfo, light period has never affected my alge growth and a one point i was running my halides at twelve hours before i added the leds, IMO if you are keeping P04 down and not runnig over twelve hours, you shouldnt have a prob, but to me 12hr of full intensity light is over kill since corals photosynthesis generation period i heard is really only about 6 hours of full spectrum light needed

Edited April 4, 2013 by kingjames420

[Neon Reefer]

Do you think that 12 hr of total light per day is too much?

I have DIY 80W LEDs over 28G Nano JBJ (half white half blue) and run it via RA controller symulating sun rise and set. The actinics start first and after 1 hr the white get on then both increase gradually up to 85% of their intensity during 2hr period then stay on for 8 hr then gradually go down to 10% intensity over the period of 2 hr then white go off and the actinics stay on for 1 more hr. Total lights are on for 12 hr. Is this too much? My corals ( SPS, LPS softies) grow fine, not too fast but I do have a hair algae problem. How long do you run your lights? I would appreciate any comments.

Hi Bogdan

I do not think that 80 watts of LED over a JBJ 28 is too intense, although I state this without knowing if there is a high quality reflector being used with them or the distance from the lights to the surface. Also you are running actinics with them and they too will contribute to the total PAR level. But with that said it is your coral that will indicate if the intense light and / or duration drives out the Zooxanthellae causing the coral to bleach out SPS or retract LPS or melt away Zoas. The first indication shpould be polyp extension. If SPS have little or no polyp exttension, LPS are retracted and Zoas are closed up then the lighting is too intense. But if you like the photo period then you can raise the lights a couiple of inches and that could be a solution. Or if controlled then turn intensity down 20%.

"Look to the coral Luke, and there lies your answers." Obi-Wan =[}

[offroadodge]

GFO will help. I have the same algae film on glass every 2 days or so. There are a lot of things that aid in the hair algae problem. If you got your rock local...the cycle etc. get some turbo snails.

[Bogdan]

jestep

My coral are fine, polyps extended no bleaching. PO4 and NO3 below the reading limit (API generic test).

Bpb

So you run the lights for only 9 hrs total and still have some algae problem. That suggests that reducing the light period is not going to help me.

kingjames420

Your total lights is 12hrs but the intense light is 8hr. I agree that mor than 12 hr of light doesn't make much sense. I do run GFO all the time but that doesn't semm to fix the problem.

andre hebert

the reflector is not a high glossy but the LEDs are close to water surface (in the original JBJ hood). By saying actinics I ment the RB LEDs not an extra light source, sorry for confusion. The SPS's polyps are well extended so I guess they are happy. The problem is the algae seem to be even more happy.

offroadodge

I run GFO reactor, I run cheato in the sump, I run biopellets, tried the turbo, Kent magnesium suppl. and other known tricks. The tank and rock is matured (2years), no overfeeding (1fish), lot of flow, use RO water. I just kind of run out of ideas. I keep adding 1 spoon of fresh GFO every week, that should suck up the PO4 from a hundreds of gallons of water, but all it does it just keep the algae at check. The rock is covered with these tiny whitish/graish hairs that stick firmly to the rock surface. If I stop adding the GFO real green hair algae apear in a few days.

Anyway if you have any suggestions please share. (can't cook ar bleach the rock as the corals are attached to it)

[+etannert]

Is it hair algae or turf algae? Can you post a close-up pic?

[Bpb]

1 spoon of gfo a week for 100 gallons? Did I read that right? I use 16 tablespoons of gfo a month in a reactor for my 55 gallon and still have gha. Maybe try ramping up how much gfo you're using?

[kingjames]

check your subtrate, when was the last time you stired it up, and do you have any clean up crew specifically for the substrate

[Bogdan]

etannert

I think they are both kinds, GHA and turf. The GFO make it difficult for
them to grow so they lose the green color and stay short but are attached to
rock and to get them off I am using literally a scalpel to scrap them off. Will
try to take a close pic tomorrow.

Bpbuys

They are different types of GFO, I have already tried PhosBan, Rowaphos and
Phosguards in huge amounts without any results. The only one that works for me
is the PO4 (x4) Phosphate remover, this is a polymer based pellet that really
suck up the phosphate. 250ml of this compound removes 3ppm of phosphate from
4000L of salt water. You have to be careful with this and slowly increase the
dose, that is why I add a spoon per week.

kingjames420

I have less than an inch of substrate and I siphon about a half of it every
two week when doing water change. I wash it well and add back to the tank. Also
have a few nerites to stir the substrate. Turbo do not help much but the small
hermits seem to eat the algae. I saw them cleaning a plug almost completely.
Need to buy more of these guys at AquaDome tomorrow.

[Bogdan]

This snail is my indicator of how the GHA are doing, the second pic shows the algae when the GFO is runing. I am not sure if these are GHA or other species.

[Lisap]

If you can take the rocks out, you can burn it off with a lighter to kill problem spots. Also the aiptasia killlers made from hydroxides like aiptasia x can burn algae off rock. A tuxedo urchin will eat it, I believe down to the rock. Sounds like if you get it off your rocks it won't come back.

[Bogdan]

I think I found a way to fix my algae problem. I bought 15 small hermits and look what they did overnignt. This guys are the best. The picture shows recovering acan today and yesterday. They cleaned it to the bare bone.