sifuentes31 Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Ok guys, now i need some help and Advice!! I just got 4 large pieces of glass from work. All 1/4" and i believe 72"x30" . What is the largest tank i can make with 1/4" glass? I did do a little research on it and plugged my numbers in the http://www.garf.org/tank/buildtank.asp calculation for glass thickness according to tank size. According to it i can build 72"L x 24"W x 18"H. I am going to do a euro brace on top with 3/8 glass and a center brace with the same. Is this plausable? Or am i tempting fate? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 If this is your first rodeo I would have someone else do it. I had enough headache with just siliconing glass dividers in my sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 There is definitely an art to building tanks. I would start off more conservative but the risk assesment is yours to decide. One thing you could do is go ahead and build it fill it with water then meseaure the difference in width between the sides in the middle center, top and bottom and at the ends. If the middle center is measurably wider than the top or bottom or ends I would cut it apart and go smaller myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bige Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 There is definitely an art to building tanks. I would start off more conservative but the risk assesment is yours to decide. One thing you could do is go ahead and build it fill it with water then meseaure the difference in width between the sides in the middle center, top and bottom and at the ends. If the middle center is measurably wider than the top or bottom or ends I would cut it apart and go smaller myself. I completely agree. I have built a few tanks and there is a learning curve. If you want go big, do the measuring listed above. But that size glass is difficult to work with and would require special tools ( for holding the glass). Also, check out hydro's build. He built it in its final resting place. Which is what I would recommend. Having said that, it's not really too hard if your handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 I guess i want to try it out because of the free glass. I'm repairing two tanks and they seemed to come out ok. So lets say it holds water and the bow out isn't that bad, do i have to fear that maybe the seems will come apart or that the glass will crack from pressure because of the 1/4" glass? Everybody has to start somewhere so if this build fails it's no skin off my back or wallet since the glass was free right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Yeah i read Hydro's build. And that's what got me thinking!! Just got me excited to do it and it was perfect timing that i got the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 ahhhh go for it! I'm with you, just give it a try its fun. Just fill it up in the garage or something and leave it for a while. Here's my .02. First are you 100% sure its not tempered glass? This would change everything, almost all window glass is tempered. You can't cut or drill tempered glass. 1/4" would be fine as long as you don't go to tall, you could do a 10' long tank with 1/4" as long as its not too deep. 18" is probably borderline so I would check other sites just to be sure before you dive in. I probably would eurobrace the top and bottom just to be safe, especially since you got the glass for free. Instead of buying 3/8" glass for your cross braces (3/8" is expensive) you can just do a double stacked 1/4" cross brace and it would be even stronger, just silicone the 2 braces together. OR you can probably just eurobrace it only with a double 1/4" strips all the way around, or just spring for 3/8" for that. I've eurobraced 5 tanks so far and its the way to go. If the tank bows (which it wouldn't with double strips) you can always drain it and add cross braces afterwards. I hope your glass isn't tempered, you are probably going to ask next "how do I know?" and that is a good question. Decide on your tank size and try cutting a piece of it, if its tempered it will kinda explode when you try and break it. You can get a glass cutter from home depot for $5, that's where I got mine. If you wanted to drive out to my shop I would help you cut it and put it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 You can easily do a tenpered glass check with a laptop lcd so no breaking glass. Good luck on the build but remember even though its free glass it could cost you hundreds in live stock loss and water damage if it doesn't hold. Maybe you can take the glass over to hydros with a 12 pack and have him supervise you especially since he has all the tools you would need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 For sure it's not tempered glass. My company uses it for windows and doors so we cut it a lot. I got it for free because this didn't have the laminate plastic between the glass (safety glass). Just straight plate glass so it's been in the shop for the past 3 years. Their loss my gain!! Thanks for the Invite Hydro but i don't have a truck to move it anywhere. A buddy of mine is helping me bring it from the shop. I'll start posting pics when i start the project. Wish me luck!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Awesome Let me know if you have any questions, I think that you will be fine. That's cool that you guys cut it, that will make things much easier that you have access to professional cutting equipment. On your eurobraces cut them 1//8" shorter than the inside dimension of the tank so you can get caulking in there on the ends. If you decide to silicone the 1/4" sections together for your bracing you can put silicone in between them and if you do it right there won't be any bubbles in between them, it will look like one piece of glass. Do you know what I mean by eurobracing the bottom? This wil give you a 1/2" of mating surface around the entire bottom. If you are going to drill it I would do it before you cut your panel, or at least before you install in on the aquarium this way if you bust it (not that likely) you won't have to redo anything. There should be 1/32 and no more than 1/16th silicone between the panels, spacers help but would be really hard to do on 1/4" glass. In case you didn't know the panels all sit on top of the bottom panel, I know garf says something different but they way they suggest isn't common. Instead of lifting the bottom panel off the stand and gluing I prefer to use styrofoam underneath the entire tank to make up for dips and waves in the stand. I think that the styrofoam in critical on tanks without bottom trim!!!! The side panels sit inside of the front and back panels typically. When putting on the panels there is no need to rush, on the tanks that I have put together I never did it all at one time. I put a wood brace, attached to the back of the stand, that I can hold the back panel of glass with. I put down the bottom, silicone on the back panel and attach to the brace, and then silicone the sides in place. I then use a square on the panels, then I measure across the front to make sure I have the correct mesurements for my front glass....then I let it dry for 24 hrs. Then I put on the front panel. Let is sit for at least 2 days then lay it on its side and put on one side eurobrace wait 24 hrs, then lay on other side to install other eurobrace, wait 24 hrs and turn back up right. You can use the front and back eurobraces to hold the side eurobraces while they dry. I would then also install the bottom eurobraces and crossbraces. in case you wanted these #'s to double check what you were going to do. Bottom 24" x 72" front and back 18" x 72" sides 23.5" x 18" (2x) eurobraces front and back 71 3/8" x 3" eurobraces sides 17 3/8" x 3" crossbraces 23 3/8" x 4" (?) Good luck and have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 YOU DA MAN HYDRO!! Now i'm going into it with even more confidence. Thanks to everybody for your advice and I will certainly post soon. Just have to wait to get the glass to my house. I will start on it next week, if i don't have to go to work the entire weekend, which is where i'm at now. One question Hydro, so once all the panels are all together do i add another bead of silicone along the inside seam and smear it with my finger or should i wait till all the bracing is done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 The inside seam is smeared leftover caulking from the panels being joined. It doesn't do much at all for holding water, I had a tank leak from a seam that I recaulked multiple times. The water somehow was able to squeeze past even fully cured silicone. If I were putting in bottom eurobrace I would wipe the silicone clean soon after the panels are joined. After 24 hrs I would take a razor blade and scrape off the extra caulking making it really clean (acetone will help), then put in the brace. Be really careful no to get underneath the glass with the bade. I would put silicone on the edge of the brace where it will touch the front, back, and side glass. I would also put caulking on the flat part as well near the edge and when you install it put it down at an angle (up against the side, front and back panel) and roll it out so that you push most of the air bubble out instead of traping them. I hope that makes sense! You can really put some pressure on it and try to keep you silicone thin. Its hard to do if you put too much silicone, don't go overboard. As long as you have at least 25% of that brace siliconed it won't go anywere. The most important part of the top and bottom eurobrace is the bond between the edge of the eurobrace and the front, side, and back panel. They sell little caulking spreaders at home depot that makes a perfect corner, only a couple $. Going to need some acetone for cleaning the surfaces before you silicone them and to clean your hands after you get silicone on them. I would also get a roll of heavy duty paper towels, you will need something to wipe silicone on and regular papaer towels just tear up and stick to your hands. They make corner clamps, maybe you can borrow from somone. They are really handy for stuff exactly like this. The clamp on the glass and hold it at a 90 degree angle. I borrow some from biocubed, they woudn't work for the big tank but worked great for the smaller ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 yall mare making me wanna build another tank just cause. Make sure u buy a top grade silicone. Dow Corning 732 (clear) or i think 734 (black), you will have to check on the # for the black but the clear is defntly #732 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Got it Hydro makes sense on the bracing. Well you ain't gona believe this. I couldn't wait till monday to get the glass so i stuffed 8 sheets of 1/4" glass, 69"x30" in my MUSTANG!!! LOL it actually fit. I was pressed all the way forward and steering with my belly. To make turns i had to suck it in and turn with both hands. Knees were on the dash board. Talk about a tight squeeze, and i'm not light. I kinda protrude out....kinda of a round guy. But hey!! I gots it in MY LAIR!!!!! BrroooHHAAHHAAAA!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 hahaha, I love mustangs! Years ago I worked in a autobody shop and had a nitrous mustang and decided that I was going to quit and start a remodeling company. For about a couple months I had to use my mustang for work, I know what can fit and its pretty impressive. I could put in 8' long lumber by laying down the back seats and stacking it on the console all the way to the radio....then the trunk would shut! . It was a standard so I would have to reach under the lumber to shift gears. Once I remember putting $350 worth of lumber in it for a job building a fence. I had to sell that 12 second qt mile mustang for a very used ford ranger, quite a change lol. I have a 97 cobra with 5k original miles on it, and a triple black vert 04 cobra with 19k original miles. I love the 04, factory supercharged. Sucks that its only as fast as the new GT's though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Man that's cool!! Yeah i've done the exact same thing to my mustang. But i have to give it a lil TLC cuz i'm going to give it to my son as a graduation present. Then i have to buy a truck. Really REALLY need one. Can't put lumber in a car for the rest of my life you know....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I wanted to let you know that they safety factor for the tank size that you mentioned is only 2.05 where most tanks are designed for high 3's (supposed to be overkill though), I think that you are really borderline like I mentioned before. You might want to consider going 16" tall instead.....which you would have about 15" of water in it. This would give you a safety factor of 3. A 40 long is 16" tall, 48" long, with 1/4" glass. That's a factory made tank so I would really consider that. The the extra 2' of length is no problem, its the height that put the stress on the glass. http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/planasystem/ig/Guide-Charts--Tables--Diagrams/Glass-Thickness-Calculator.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Also why not make it 30" wide since your panels are already cut that width? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 You know that sounds good. I think i will make them 30 wide. All i have to do is one cut instead of two. Your right i think i will do it a little shorter. 18" is borderline safe so yeah i will lower it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Cool, that would put you at exactly 150 gallons with 16" tall. Eurobraced too, that's going to be a cool tank! Are you drilling it? Back glass or bottom? Don't worry about drilling it, not a big deal at all. I've drilled over 20 holes now and I did break one panel (that wasn't tempered). It broke because the drill bit got in a bind while drilling it and it cracked the panel. I now clamp a piece of wood behind where I'm drilling and I put less pressure on the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Yes i'm going to drill it. Once i get my pieces i was going to ask you How to plumb it and what holes works best. I was thinking having four holes on the back top. Two in the middle spaced out and two on the outside. The two in the middle for the overflow and the two on the outside for return. Just don't know where exactly where to place them tho. Thats what i was going to ask you Hydro.... In a side note i got the skimmer last nite from Jason_Jones. Great Guy!!! It's a Trigger System Becket Style Skimmer. Looks awesome and is huge!!! So i should be great in that department. Just need a mag pump now and i'm in buisiness...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 STUPID GLASS!!!!!!! BROKE WHEN I LAID IT DOWN. That's what i get trying to do it from home. Going to do it at work later tonight. My glass.... MY CRACK!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Been so busy i haven't even touched the tank. But at the advice of everyone i decided to make the stand first. All my glass is cut and ready to go. The measurements of the tank are 69"x30"x17" deep. It's the biggest tank i'll ever own to date. (Until i get the bug again and make or buy an even bigger tank ). So i had a couple of hours on Saturday to do something, ANYTHING, to my tank so i started on the stand. It's going to be 42" high , then the 17" of tank and i'm not sure on the height of the canopy just yet. Probably going with 12" though. At first i made the top of the frame 72"x36". My plan was to run the plumbing through the top of stand into the inside so i can place the entire stand up against the wall. Totally great idea.....UNTILL.......I walked through the front door and imagined how i was going to bring it the house from the garage. Measured the front door and it was 36" wide. NO WAY IT WAS EVEN GOING TO FIT. DOH!!! So i seperated the top frame and cut 4" off it and made it 32" instead. So now no choice but to run the piping outside the stand and make holes on the back. I had thought about drilling the bottom of the stand for the overflow but still not sure if i want to go that route yet. I might though.... So here is what i got so far.. Still haven't completed the frame yet but it's a start.. Hopefully i get a chance to finish the frame at least sometime this week....yest i know the garage is a mess.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All WYSIWYG Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 lol your not the first person to realize their tank or stand wouldn't fit through the door late in the game, good thing you realized it before it was finished Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifuentes31 Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Yeah no kidding! But if i had done that, that door would have been toast cuz the aquarium is still going in!!!! So Hydro was still wondering about the hole size for the back of the tank. What's your take on the size and location for that?? Oh yeah you should have seen the way the plywood was sticking out the back of my trunk. I thought it was going to fit but nope! I said screw it and tied down the trunk and had like four feet of it dangling out the trunk. Luckily i just lived down the street. LOL... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.