trozacky Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Ok so I just noticed my coral beauty and hippo tang have ick. Whats the best treatment and how long do I have before the Ick could kill? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmthree Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 My Tangs had the Ick and I just mixed their food with the Garlic Extreme and that seems to have done the job. I just does Garlic Extreme once a week now and it is suppose to help with their immune systems. I also read that by feeding them slivers of zucchini helps with their immune systems. Hope this helps. Ok so I just noticed my coral beauty and hippo tang have ick. Whats the best treatment and how long do I have before the Ick could kill? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Keep your fish heathy, lots of garlic, zoe, any other viatmins you can give them. And make sure ur levels are good so as the fish to have no reason to stress. Make sure they are both getting algae or seaweed in their diet too, did the trick when I had an ick outbreak. Havnt seen it since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trozacky Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks for the suggestions. Im going to do a water change this week and get some garlic. They are both new fish so maybe the stress of changing tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+C Lo Slice Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I recently battled ich with my Kole Tang, and got a lot of helpful advice from people here. This is what has worked for me: Immediate water change. The sooner the better. Make sure the fish are still swimming and eating at a healthy rate. If not, you may consider getting them into a quarantine tank. I've been taking a full cube of frozen food and sticking it in a shot glass. Then I put just enough garlic extract in the shot glass to cover the food and then put in a quick splash of vitamin c. I swirl it around a little bit, then stick it in the fridge for 6 hours or so. Come feeding time, my tang turns into a Saltwater Swine, gobbling up as much as he can. I believe the vitamin c in the food has helped his immune system, and it doesn't hurt my clowns either. I still notice little bits of ich on him here and there, but its far better than what it was initially. I have a fire shrimp that picks off the dead tissue on the fish anytime they're near each other, so that has helped too. My tang is swimming and eating normally, so I haven't been too concerned with him. But I do still keep a watchful eye on him. As long as your fish are behaving like they should, just keep up with you water changes and supplement their diet, and hopefully they'll be fine. This is what worked for me anyways. Just trying to pay it forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 If it was my tank I would be getting a UV sterilizer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trozacky Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Im running a UV sterilizer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 1. Copper treatment. 2. Hyposalinity in a qt tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trozacky Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 I just completed a 20% water change. I added garlic extreme and put a carbon bag into the sump. Fish seem happy I guess Ill see how it goes from here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trozacky Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 So everything was looking good. The coral beauty still had a few spots but the hippo looked to be cleared up. Well I got home yesterday from being on the road with work and the coral beauty look horrible. She had white spots everywhere. The hippo has cleared up and is still a pig. This morning I found her dead. I hate loosing fish, man! She was a newer edition I only had her for about a month. What could I have differently. I changed the water and used Garlic. I just dont know. She was one of my favorite fish. **** IT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindflux Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 You should have QT'd them with Hyposalinity or a copper(cupramine) treatment. The thing with ICK is it appears on the body, but when it disappears it's not gone, it's dropped off into your sand bed multiplying for another round. At this point I'd QT the rest of your fish and treat them with Cupramine or Hyposalinity and keep them out of your DT for 8 (or more) weeks from the last time you saw any fish with ICK. I know this is heartbreaking, but it's what you gotta do IMO. You'll want to read up on Cupramine OR Hypo treatment and decide which will work better for you. Once the 'treatment' stage is over raise your salinity up (slowly) for Hypo or do a large waterchange for cupramine and run some carbon in your QT tank. Best of luck. I finally caught my chromis and am now treating the 3 fish that made it out of my tank alive for Brooklynella. That's just my 2c on the issue. After dealing with Brooklynella I'm going to be more cautious about QTing new fish before they make their way to the DT so I can watch them for anything that can be passed on to the other inhabitants. I'd rather QT one/two fish before they make it to my DT than having to chase several fish around in my DT to QT them later. DO NOT HYPO OR TREAT COPPER IN YOUR DT, EVER -- This shouldn't have to be said, but I'm gonna say it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindflux Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich) So what about Marine Ich (cyrptocaryon irritans)? The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that' date=' the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go. Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates. This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts. By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite. [/quote'] More here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Interesting, my BHT has ich but none of my other fish. She is still happy and eating every time I feed and picking at the rock in my tank. I dont have a quarantine tank but should have my bowfront up and running in the next week or so. I have a sailfin as well and he has shown no signs of ich and none of my other tank inhabitants do either. First sight of it on my BHT was about 3 weeks ago. I fed her the seaweed with garlic and the white spots turned into little grey/black spots, appear to be scars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman926 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Im running a UV sterilizer Your flow must be lower than what you set it up with to combat algae, for it to be effective with ich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindflux Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Any updates? I saw you pulled your 55G off sale to use it as a QT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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