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OgreMkV

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Posts posted by OgreMkV

  1. These lights are fairly new. They were just introduced last month. I haven't seen a lot of them around. One of the few places that has them is in Germany and it was $135 shipping to get them here.

    The current tank light is a 96W PC bulb that's dual 10K and actinic.

    I'll have before and after shots for next weekend.

  2. My rich uncle gave me a few bucks (like he does every year about this time) and I bought my wife a new laptop and me a new set of lights for the tank. I've been researching the heck out of metal halide and LED lamps for a month now. Finally...

    I gave in. I found a really great price on a 160W LED unit.

    It's the G2 16) on this page: http://www.fish-street.com/product_p...hp?item_id=454

    There are 2 30-Watt white bulbs (about 20K)

    14 3-Watt white bulbs (about 10K)

    14 3-Watt blue (420nm)

    4 1-Watt violet moon lights.

    Each color bank (and the big whites) are independently programmable.

    I've got the plans drawn up for a solid glass top. Going Monday to have that made.

    The unit should be here on Tuesday. From the pictures I've seen (on other forums), it is epically bright. I'm planning on running it without the 30W whites for several weeks, the turning them on, just for a while at first, then building up time.

    I'm also planning on adding a few more SPSs in prominent locations.

    Full report forthcoming.

  3. I don't know if this helps you, but I did mine myself and it's a bit larger than one of the pre-packaged nanos, but it's about the same price. Occasionally, you'll find a really good deal at petco or petsmart. I got a 45 gallon pentagonal tank with stand for only $150. The light is a single 96W PC fixture that I bought from a guy here on ARC (about $125 new). I've got a aquaclear 70 HOB filter with sponges and cermamic tubes (about $50?) and a pair of PHs with a sponge filter on one of them (about $30 each). So for, less than $400, I've got a much larger tank than a normal nano and it's was pretty cheap. Pluse the upgrade possibilities are endless. Add a Metal halide, put a HOB refugium and skimmer, throw a sump underneath... etc.

    I would encourage you to go that route rather than with something that can never be upgraded (at least is very difficult to upgrade).

  4. I have treated my freshwater tank with malachite green once before and it worked very well. 3 days of dosing then a big water change and I haven't had an outbreak of ich since.

    Of topic sort of, but you mentioned that you were using a 10g tank for a QT. I am planning on using the same and was wondering what sort of fish you have housed in it so far.

    I don't have any fish in my display yet, but future plans are for chromis, clowns, perhaps cardinalfish, and a blenny. All of these fish I would imagine would do ok in a 10g, but figured it was worth asking.

    Thanks.

    Right now i've got a pair of clowns (ocellaris) in the Q-tank. As I don't plan on having anything larger than those two, it will be fine for me. In the future I'll have a goby or blenny to be named later and maybe a shrimp. I've only a 45g display tank that's pretty coral heavy so I'll be going easy on the fish.

  5. OK, so my two clowns had ich. I assume it was ich because I don't have a microscope and a degree in marine parasites.

    The two clowns have been in a ten gallon quarantine tank with a small heater and a maxi-jet 900 ph with a sponge filter. The sponge filter and the maxi-jet have been in my display tank for about 8 months, so it's well seeded with bacteria. Never-the-less, I did a 10-20% water change daily. There are a pair of 3-inch PVC pipe elbows in the Q-tank as well.

    The smaller of the two clowns got several (less than 10) white spots on him. After a day, the spots went away and they were gone for four days. Then they came back and there were many more than before (not a dusting, but more than 10 spots). The large clown also got a single spot this time. At no point did either fish show signs of stress due to the ich. No clamped fins or fast breathing and both were eating heartily.

    We were advised by an authority that I trust (i.e. not LFS) not to use copper products on clownfish. We had the malachite green/formalin solution and went ahead and started the treatment. 9 drops went into the tank. It's supposed to be 1 drop per gallon. I figured with a light case of ich and the pipe, sponge, ph, and heater, 9 drops would be sufficient without straining the fish. The water turned a nice bright blue and we watched the fish carefully for the first hour. They seemed to have no problems so we turned out the light and went to bed.

    Apparently, it's important to medicate as near as possible to the time the lights go out so that the parasites are hit with the treatment when they drop off the fish for the night.

    The next morning everything was fine. That evening I did a 10-20% water change (because the medication probably killed all the bacteria in the sponge) and retreated. The medication regime is for three doses 24 hours apart. For us it was nine drops each time and a 10-20% water change a few hours before treatment time.

    At no point did the fish seem stressed due to treatment. It was obvious that they didn't enjoy it, hiding under the sponge filter or in the pipe elbows, but no stress, heavy breathing and always hungry.

    After the third treatment, I waited 24 hours and placed a large bag of carbon in the tank. I don't have a HOB filter, so I just dropped the carbon bag in the tank. I'll do an additional water change tomorrow and return to my testing regime.

    Malachite green/formalin is some nasty stuff and you don't want it on you or spilling on the table or floor.

    There have been no spots on the fish since the final treatment. I'm hoping that the treatment will not have to be repeated.

    In conclusion, Malachite Green/formalin (30%) solution seems to be an effective treatment.

  6. Hi guys, I need some help.

    I seem to flow a water flow problem. It's either too much or not enough and everything is getting POed at me.

    The tank is a 45g pentagon. About 24 inches wide and high (on the longest sides) and 24 or so high. The top 1/3 of the tank is free from rock work, while the bottom 2/3 is pretty heavy. See full tank shot below

    post-981-12624082436021_thumb.jpg

    At the moment, I've got an aquaclear 70 HOB filter (about 300 gph), a koralia 1 (400gph) and a maxijet 900 (with a sponge filter) (less than 250 gph). So call it 900 gph.

    I can't seem to get them adjusted to the point where the torch and the hammer corals aren't getting beat to death. I'm wondering if the koralia is too much (not to mention having a narrow range of positions) and I should switch it for another maxijet with the diffuser.

    Since my chemistry is finally getting better (pH and kH issues) and I have no measurable nitrates, nitrites, etc... maybe I could slow down the aquaclear, I just don't want it to get stagnant in the filter.

    I also want to get this fixed up before my fish come in.

    If anyone wants to come over this weekend and fling advice at me, I've got some ham, southwest dip, chips, and some cookies left over from New Years.

    Thanks

    Kevin

  7. Trust me. Go see this movie. The story line is better than expected. Pay the $14 bucks for the IMAX 3-D version. The cinematography will blow you away. The science (for those of us so inclined) is fascinating.

    It is really a stunning movie... by far the best movie I've ever seen.

  8. Leather - there's actually a baby one growing off the back of the main one.

    post-981-12613721739359_thumb.jpg

    Bird's nest - considering this is 96W of PC lighting, this is doing amazingly well. Of course, it's like 9 inches from the lights. Still, it's very, very cool.

    post-981-12613721613077_thumb.jpg

    New Armor of Gods

    post-981-12613721495195_thumb.jpg

    Dragon's Eye

    post-981-1261372137267_thumb.jpg

    Eye of Ra

    post-981-1261372122334_thumb.jpg

    Trumpet - almost there

    post-981-1261372110362_thumb.jpg

    Group shot of the new stuff - green mushroom, armors, Blue Hornets in the back, blue stripe mushroom and another mushroom to be IDed later

    post-981-12613720986035_thumb.jpg

    Green stripe and osme other new zoas - Lexie forgot what they are.

    post-981-1261372084819_thumb.jpg

  9. I've got a baseball/softball sized piece of live rock. It's really nice stuff, a few polyps, lots of featherdusters and some macro algae. It also has a medium sized (quarter or so) crab living in the middle of it. it's covered in coraline and pods. I don't have a refugium, so if someone doesn't take it, then it's gone.

    I have a second piece of live rock with some other macro algae that I plan on breaking up.

    I'd like a few zoa polyps for it, but I do need it gone.

    Kev

    post-981-12612559243863_thumb.jpg

  10. I've got some really nice macro algae that I can trade. I'm pretty sure it's money algae (Halimeda genus). I have two kinds. One with a small round 'leaf' and one with a larger oar shaped 'leaf'.

    A trade would give you 3 or 4 3-inch 'vines'. With a little nutrients and a little flow, this will grow out into a nice large bundle in two-three months. This is show tank quality macro.

    Looking for zoas, shrooms (green preferably). No Xenia please.

    Thanks

    Kevin

  11. I got a freebie frag of bird's nest coral. I have installed it in the tank with a bit of superglue on the base. It's as high as I can get it to the lights (just PCs).

    This afternoon, the branches seemed to have very fine little fuzzy things on them. Those are the actual coral animals right? So, does that mean they might be OK in the tank or is it too early to tell?

    Thanks

  12. It's really nice (and I love the tank). I really like the depth of the sand.

    Have you secured the rocks in any way? That big one on the top and in the center looks precariously balanced. You might try to epoxy the rocks. You might also (if you epoxy them) try to open it up a touch (make some tunnels for fish to swim through, etc.)

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