caferacermike

Feb 20th? I'll be out of the hobby by then but I'll make sure to visit.

Fist bump.

Please somebody make an offer on this tank.

Perfect seahorse tank. Brooks you shoulda bought it. Anybody interested in the seahorse threads should consider this tank.

You go Preemie and by payin monies out they will allow changin.

Wots wrong with ATX? Seems a good username.

Hmm, never heard of the place. Well I guess I'll need to find time to check the place out. Well thanks for sponsoring the forums.

Dena I'll give you $5 for the wrasse just so Clint can't have it.

I had to check for myself as I thought something was amiss the last time I clicked a link.

I just went to Brooks's thread about seahorses, clicked on a link to a Pico tank. Not only did it open a new tab for the link, but my original ARC tab became the same link. I closed the second link and had to hit my "back" button to get back to ARC. It should either change my current tab and allow me to back button to my ARC thread or open a new tab and leave my first tab alone.

Firefox like gajillionth edition. Whatever is most current. Been a FF user since the beginning.

Yes yes it was, just wanted to tease anyone that was still thinking about it. So now everyone knows Cool Breeze will soon be the new owner of a medium sized tank.

Do what I did.

Take her along on the trips and ask her if she sees anything she likes, when she points out something act like she didn't. After a few trips to the LFS and asking her what she liked and ignoring her, then say something like "wow that's expensive" and just walk on. Do this until she stops going to the stores with you. After awhile she will never mention the tank again. Mine must love my tank because she never mentions it to me.

I love that skimmer. I run the RS-180 on my 75g. I'd see about getting the modded Eheim 1252 from the new ER guys and turn that skimmer into a RC-250. You might be able to fit it into the sump better. My CS12-5x4RC was freaking awesome when it was on my 75g and had 4 Eheim 1252 pumps on it.

Since JohnG did not actually "make" any of his corals, they all came from the same source- the oceans, why must they specifically be "JohnG corals"? I mean honestly that kind of does not make sense to me. There is no special lineage to any of of the JG corals. Unlike Tyree that frags a coral, then grows out a colony, frags from that colony, grows out that frag etc.. 6 times before his frags hit the market thus helping to ensure a quality tank adjusted coral.

Instead, why not just create a list of what corals you are looking for. I can certainly think back and laugh about the time he was going to spend $150 for a frag of tri-color valida and I tried giving him a 4"x6" colony from my display tank, he refused it. He wouldn't take it because I couldn't provide him a receipt that he could use to justify charging people for frags in the future. Basically because he wouldn't have to pay for it, it wasn't good enough for him. A week later he dropped $450 on valida at Extreme Corals up there in Dallas. Actually a major amount of his corals came from Extreme or Atlantis. The same place you can buy them from as well.

By providing a list of what you were looking for, then maybe people can tell you if they have it, instead of having to tell others that you aren't interested in what they have.

Bozack not sure why you'd want either but I have old Norton's and I have access to a few T3 Lemans if you are serious. I'm in the mood to sell my Commando. I just installed a Steve Maney belt drive and it's sweet as candy.

I've had an offer on the tank. This is a last chance warning to anyone thinking about it.

My tank has been in the "works" since I bought it 5 years ago. I may win longest tank build ever. But then again I'm trying to sell it now.

I'm selling my 400 gallon tank and all equipment. Sponsor epic reef has a nearly new 125 listed in his forum.

Well is it full?

Rust?

Come on Callahan you should know better. GFO-Granular Ferric Oxide=Rust. Purely rust. AKA Phosphate remover. Your BFF@BRS sells it to us by the ton, http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/carbon-and-gfo/bulk-gfo-granular-ferric-oxide-phosphate-remover

Webster says: ferric oxide noun

Definition: of FERRIC OXIDE

The red or black oxide of iron Fe2O3 found in nature as hematite and as rustand also obtained synthetically and used especially in magnetic materials, as a pigment, and for polishing

Webster says: rust noun \ˈrəst\

Definition of RUST

1a : the reddish brittle coating formed on iron especially when chemically attacked by moist air and composed essentially of hydrated ferric oxide b : a comparable coating produced on a metal other than iron by corrosion

Phooey. I expect better from Mr. Saltwater.

Yeah I'm calling ya out in Spades on that one.

BUMP

I'm willing to entertain offers of $5,000.

Just wanting to move my life in a different direction and would like to find a new home for this tank.

I'd like to grab a frag of it for my refugium. I'm switching over to softies in there. I might could make it out that way tomorrow evening.

That RO unit you have a new pic of is not a quality unit. The water is not, and never will be forced through the DI resin such as that in a good updraft canister. Those are purely cosmetic. That last thing on the unit is some sort of "taste effector" meant to replace the "taste" of RO/DI water. Usually it's ground up coconut charcoal and actually adds TDS to the outgoing water. The idea is that people don't like the taste of RO/DI water so they add a little something back to it. Those units are the $100 specials that go under your sink for drinking water.

Now I'm not saying that the units we buy for the hobby are much different, or necessarily better, but there are faults in it's design. Swap out the DI thingy for a real DI canister set up, ditch that last thing that they put inline and make sure you are using a Dow Filmtech membrane. That will help lower the TDS in the new unit.

7-10TDS IS NOT ENOUGH TO RUIN A TANK.

Seriously we all use RO/DI because we know it makes our hobby easier. I've met several people with nice tanks that use only tap water at 400-600ppm. So scratch your other idea to.

It's not what you are putting in your tank, it's what is already there. But hey you've shot down everything that has been suggested so it sounds like you've got purely mean Gremlins.

I've had several and won't be buying anymore.

I can't get over how nice they look, argghhh.

I would get them and most would last about 3 months. I'd get some recommendations from others and try again. I did have some success years ago with 1 specimen. After 8 months I decided to get another one with different colored tips. Well my maroon, that never once noticed to original elegance, immediately set to the task of eating the ends off the new elegance. It was gone by the morning. Next day it had killed the original elegance as well. Totally freak deal.

If you have any other LPS established within your tank I would seriously consider not getting an elegance. When they die, and seriously it can be within hours of placing it in your tank, they tend to get what is known as "brown jelly disease". Basically they turn to mush. This mush can quickly foul your water parameters leading to algae outbreaks or worse. The melt down seems to move to other LPS as well. They in turn die off. All this death can irritate other corals in the tank starting a chain reaction that can be difficult to stop. So if you add one at the moment it looks bad, you should remove it before it has a chance to pollute the tank. This is the same advice for new anemones as well. Worst case is you place it in a bucket of salt water and see if it settles down or dies off.

I've said it a hundred times that the 3 days of darkness is bogus. And how many times must it be pointed out that YOU MUST DO A HUGE WATER CHANGE IMMEDIATELY AFTER the 3 days of darkness. Nobody ever mentions that. If you ever saw any sort of die off because you left the lights off for 3 days or 3 weeks, that decaying algae is still in the water. As soon as you turn your lights on it will become an algae feeding frenzy.

Once when I had a tank meltdown and algae grew in because of all the death, I shut the lights off for like 6 months while the tank stabilized. Sure enough it was still covered in algae.

Jeremy is right that something is feeding your algae bloom. Not sure what. My TDS comes out of my RO/DI at around 20 and I don't care a bit. It works just fine and I don't have algae problems. I also disagree with the comments about getting more clean up crews. I went through that game when I first started in the hobby. What I found was that the more snails, hermits, crabs etc that I had the more algae I had. They consume left over food and crap perfectly condensed algae food. The more snails you have, the less fish you can have. It's a simple matter of ratios. Basically I am going to call it "The Butthole Theory". The more buttholes you have, the more waste is being produced. You only want a certain number of buttholes in your tank. Feed less than you are now, in fact the less buttholes you have, the less you need to feed. In my 75g the hermits fought and killed all of my cleanups until I have a nice little mix of 10 nassarius, 3 hermits, and about 9 cucumbers. Not exactly a huge cleanup crew in a 75g tank. I only feed my tank about once a week and only about an 1/8th of a teaspoon at that. My fish are healthy, my pod population is very large, my corals are fine. If there is any 1 thing I have noticed, it's that the more corals I have the more stable the tank. Corals really help purify the water, same with clams.

I'd say it's time for new bulbs, a couple of weekly back to back large volume water changes so you can "reset" your parameters, stop feeding altogether, add more corals, and make sure your skimmer is working properly.

I still think that refugiums add to algae problems.

This confounds me and goes completely against the sound logic of a refugium. The idea that you provide an ideal place for organisms that grow faster and process waste better than GHA would in the display, and in a manner that you can physically control is somehow counterproductive has my mind in knots.

Could you explain your position better?

I'm attaching a badly drawn idea of what I'm trying to say. You'll see that the inlet chamber is on the right and the pump chamber would be on the left. Non of what I'm saying is "factual science", it's just what I've come to understand over the years. By having the "middle" chamber it has an actual place to remove the bubbles.

If your system was not making bubbles before you got your overflow synced, the plumbing wouldn't be your problem now. What is happening now is that your overflow is correctly mixing the air to water ratio and trapping microbubbles. These are just flowing right on through the trap because the water is so heavily mixed and your pump is moving water very quickly, thus the contact time through your current set up is not long enough to purge the bubbles.

I bet if you slowed the pump it would go back to the way it was before you got it dialed in. The problem here is you want it to run as it is now that it is dialed in.

I asked you yesterday if you got a bigger pump when you upsized the tank but we never got back in touch. Chatzy now. I'm still saying that the baffles are backwards. There is no place that the bubbles will be purged from in that pic. The bubbles travel down, under, and back up yet the water line is such that the bubbles are never forced to the top. They are always under the water line.

The cart will certainly hold up. Give me the dimensions of the one you want. Let's just say I have access to "some". I might even have one in the garage for you. Do you mind if it's used?

I bought my reservoir from Tractor Supply but there was a place in Burnett selling them cheaper but that's a long drive.