Enigma13

I have some Red Sea Coral Pro and wouldn't mind donating some for these tests. Biggest issue would be coordinating drop off considering we are at opposite ends of the city. I test my water everytime before a water change due to issues I previously had with some SeaChem salt (defective batch that had very bad readings, tested and confirmed by SeaChem who provided lots of free product in return. Great customer service). I have tried SeaChem Reef Salt, Tropic Marin, and Red Sea Coral Pro. I have not tested as many as Gabe and do not want to steal his thunder, but I am happy to share my results. These are all using RO/DI water and mixing to 1.025 SG. I also want to emphasize that there are always differences from batch to batch even with the same salt and source water. I test Ca, Alk, pH, and Mg of each batch. These results are also taken over the course of a year (I used SeaChem until about March, switched to Tropic Marin from March-July, and just in the past month starting using the Red Sea). SeaChem Reef Salt: pH=8.2-8.4, CA=290-310, alk=2.6-2.75 meq/L, Mg= 820-860 Tropic Marin: pH= 8.3, CA= 380-400, alk= 2.9-3.1, Mg=1000-1050 Red Sea Coral Pro: pH= 8.3, CA= 380-400, alk= 2.5-2.65, Mg= 870-950 The low magnesium has been the main reason I have changed salts. I have both a Salifert and an Elos test kit and results seem to be consistent. I am not sure there is a salt that is putting proper amounts of Magnesium into their mix. I am tackling this problem by adding MagFlake to my mix water to raise it to 3X calcium each week. This is a recent step some I will report back with results later.

Some fish just do not seem to come around to the local stores, even upon request. Further, sometimes trying to special order those fish through a local store could require a kings ransom (at some LFS, not all). By ordering several items at one time I spread the shipping cost out and usually still come out considerably cheaper than buying at the LFS. I do try to buy most livestock at the LFS to ensure that they will always be there when I do want to actually see what I am buying. However, I think in some cases the online order can be the superior option for obtaining certain species.

I have ordered fish from LiveAquaria (once) and PetSolutions (several occasions). Both worked out fine. Did not have as much luck with corals, though I did have a nice Pocillapora survive from LiveAquaria.

My clowns host in a large colony of anthelia very happily.

Marinedepot.com should do the trick. They have reasonable prices and just with those test kits you will be close to the free shipping threshold.

I started my tank almost two years ago with a dozen turbos. They knocked over everything that is not fastened to the rock and even some stuff that is. I grew tired of them pretty quickly when they kept knocking my candy cane down into my cynarina. I have just let them naturally die off (down to 2). I use nerites now as my main glass cleaner. They do not seem to live as long, but they do not damage other things. I mix in ceriths for all purposes and off course nassarius for the sand bed.

Never seen them for sale in town. Marine Depot is a good (cheap) source for them online. I tend to make a quarterly order for all of my supplies to Marine Depot and therefore get free shipping as well.

Another great site for answers: www.wetwebmedia.com

Did you check the overflows really well? Our Solar Wrasse tends to jump into our overflow fairly often and can be hard to see.

I will be there. This is a very timely topic for me as I plan on purchasing a calcium reactor in the very near future.

Nitrates do not need to reach 0 to indicate the completion of the cycle. Ammonia and nitrite must reach 0. Many tanks will never reach 0 on nitrates. This is simply because the nitrogen cycle ends with the production of nitrate. There is no step that eliminates the nitrate. The only way that nitrate can be removed from the tank is water change, macroalgae in a refugium, or a DSB. Even those methods do not assure that nitrate will always be 0. Nitrate control is the constant balance of operating a successful tank. It is one reason to keep a reasonable bioload, have an appropriately sized skimmer (these methods limit the amount of nutrients that have to go through the nitrogen cycle and ultimately end up as nitrate), do regular water changes, and have a healthy refugium. I think a nitrate level in the range of 0-10 is perfectly reasonable in a reef aquarium. I have run my 144 mixed in that range for close to two years with no nitrate based problems. I agree that patience is vital in adding livestock to your tank. I have always followed a rule of trying to add only one fish at a time, and allowing at least a month for the fish to settle in and the system to balance before further additions. I think it can be very effective to come up with a stocking plan for your tank. It can help with the addition of certain species that are best added early or late due to their passivity or aggressiveness, respectively, but it also helps control the urge to create the masterpiece overnight only to have it all crash. When our tanks are new it is the hardest to be patient because we want to put something in them to look at. That is just the time we need to be the most patient. Keep up with the water changes and the nitrates should get back to a normal range.

I am not sure that you should be all that worried about getting your nitrate down to 0. Running 5-10 is an acceptable level. My nitrates usually run in that range and everything in my tank is healthy. I do a 10% water change weekly. If you start climbing above 20 then I would be worried. Few heavily stocked systems are going to be able to achieve 0, and the Yellow Tang in your tank almost assures that you would be considered heavily stocked for a 40.

I think he is going to be fine. He is eating algae very well now, some Formula 2 flake, and even starting a little nibbling on the frozen foods. He is getting along with all of his tank mates and likes to play in the Tunze streams. Few spots of ich here and there, but the cleaner shrimp usually has him cleaned up by morning.

I have used Oceanic, SeaChem, Red Sea and Tropic Marin. I did not like the SeaChem because I had consistently low calcium and magnesium levels and had a heavy residue in my salt water mix tank. Oceanic was fairly effective, but I had occasional cyano patches. Since I had switched to Tropic Marin (about 9 months ago) there has been no cyano and all levels except for Magnesium have been good. Red Sea was great except it took longer to dissolve fully (about 36 hours). Therefore, my favorite as of right now is Tropic Marin based purely on the results. Red Sea would be my second choice.

I had a massive, but not total anthelia die off about a year ago. Never determined the cause. The survivors have grown back to twice the amount originally in the tank. If you want anymore to replace your loss just let me know. I have plenty to give.

He seems most interested in the algae, but hasn't quite worked up the courage to get into the frenzy to get some. Each feeding he seems a little more comfortable, so hopefully he will join the frenzy soon instead of running from it.

He is swimming around and the feeling out with the Yellow Tang is over, so he seems settled in. However, he has not started eating yet. Hopefully, he will in the next day or so. He has seemed curious the last couple of feedings.

I added the last fish in my stocking plan to my 144 reef last night. Although adding this fish as the final fish in my stocking plan had been my agenda since I got into SW about a year and a half ago, a couple of months ago I had abandoned the plan due to the fear that my tank wasn't properly suited. I posted that message to some other boards to seek opinions for an alternate "final fish." Low and behold, after getting some great suggestions for alternate fish, I received a PM from semperfimarine offering to sell me the originally planned fish. My sensibilities could not resist the temptation. Therefore, I am now the proud owner of an Achilles Tang. I hope that I will be able to make a good home for him. His first day consisted of getting acquainted to his new surroundings and having some "feeling out" meetings with my Yellow Tang, but overall he seems to be settling in. He has been in post-transit captivity for about 4 weeks, so I still don't feel safe, but I am keeping my fingers crossed.

I am down in Shady Hollow (off of Brodie between Slaughter and 1626) so not too far.

I would also vote for the supplementation/calcium reactor topic.

A common fish, though unusual looking is a Bangaii Cardinal. Not brightly colored, but a cool and unique shape and quite gregarious.

SOLD

I have a Current USA Prime Inline Modular 1/4hp and it works great on my 144.

I do not want to inpugn anybody, but the advice you received from the "local store" above seems a little off. You can keep your tank cycled by feeding it even if you have no fish and, in fact, completing your cycle without fish is the method often recommended by conscientious aquarists. Adding two fish at the age your tank is, with the amount of rock and equipment you have, probably would have tested the limits. Understand your concerns about the equipment. As asked above, does your tank have a sump in the cabinet? If so, most skimmers for a tank your size can simply be put in the sump and therefore be hidden in the cabinet. As for the cost: A decent skimmer will definitely be expensive, but is probably one of the most important pieces of equipment for your tank. I would not attempt corals until you have one given their sensativity to changes in the water chemistry. For what its worth, I also concur with the advice above delivered by two very well respected members of our community. Best of luck and welcome.

I have plenty of anthelia if you are interested.