WesleyB

PM me your #

I have 30 lbs of fully cured Tonga live rock for sale. This isn't the branching form, but rather large solid show pieces. Going for $100.

I have plenty of live rock for sale just call me. 832-439-0004. Wes

I have a couple of pieces of LR I'd trade you for the Koralia 3. I'll try to call you in a few hours.

Well the cool thing about Monti caps is when you place them at the bottom of the tank they tend grow in a cup formation, taking up less space. Keep in mind that this under high powered lighting. With only 2 bulbs you may want consider placing your specimen atleast midway in the tank. What is the wattage of your bulbs? Remeber when I say keeping Monti's under moderate care they will survive in less extreme lighting environments given that all other requirements for keeping SPS are met.

You can keep Monti's under T5 lighting it's just a matter of what species are appropriate for your size tank. If you want to maximize the diversity of coral in your tank it may better to chose an encrusting species like the "Superman" M. Danae or M. Undata. They are very colorful and require moderate care. The Monti caps which grow in a plating formation would limit the use of your available space as they would block the light of surrounding corals once they begin to grow.

Acropora Turaki is a highly sensitive species. Chances are if it began to STN that soon in your tank it may not survive. I lost my mini colony not even 48 hours after introuducing it to my tank. Even after fragging it up into smaller colonies, the necrosis started right back up. Dale warns that if it is exposed to air for evevn brief amounts of time you can kiss it goodbye. So if you are going to cut it do so under water, same goes for gluing it. As far as dipping it, I wouldn't as it is already stressed from the change in environment. Just cut into the healthy tissue and glue it firmly to an area of low flow in your tank. Sorry to hear this Don. I feel your pain and good luck.

Steven you need to maintain a constant and stable salinity level. Buffers will predominantly modify your kh, but consitent salinty will hold your ph in check.

What up John? I need to get your # again so we can schedule somthing. I sent you a pm, but I guess it didn't go through.

Keep the light cycle to a minimum for now. I say 3 hours a day should be sufficenct. Stay up to par on your water changes and keep the collection cup on your skimmer pretty clean so that it operates efficiently.I would probably wait till you at least test positive for nitrates before you add any macro algae. Good luck!

Do you know if ORA is still cultivating this piece for sale or is it one that has been discontinued and is only available through private hobbyists? ORA lost alot of their livestock in a hurricane a few years back, but next time we do an order at RCA I will check and see for you.

I tried to send you a PM, but the site won't allow me to. Im very interested, how can I get ahold of you? My number is 832-439-0004. If you can send me a PM with your contact info or just reply in this post. Thanks, Wes

I live off W.Parmer right next to Cedar Park. You're more than welcome to come by and check it out. My number is 832-439-0004.

I have a single green with purple rim montipora cap for sale. Coral is approximately 4"x3" and mounted on a thick disk for support. This monti has excellent polyp extension and brilliant green coloration. I need the room for my other corals so $30 takes it. I don't have a camera, but if I can get a hold of one in time I'll snap some pics.

If you decide to part it out I would be interested in the tank, stand and canopy. I don't have much use for the other equipment. How soon do you plan on moving?

Man you were supposed to come holla at me before you posted....LOL its kool.

If your water parameters test 0 for ammonia and nitrite toss a clean up crew in there....turbo snails, austrea, hermits etc.

Hey I can't send y'all a pm for some reason but if you can give me a call at 832-439-0004 so we can discuss the sale of Ca reactor setup. Thanks, Wes

If ya want that good Berry holla at Jon G. He's got everything posted in the for sale forum.

I just went through a similar issue with my tank. I had to remove a nussence fish and when I did I had to pull out most of my LR. When I did I removed a base piece that had totally fused with my live sand which had never been disturbed. All Im doing is a water change every 3 days to keep my toxins at bay. Unsettling a sand bed can release stored amounts of methane and nitrogen gas. So far I have not lost anything or incurred any adverse reactions and I actually cracked my sand bed in half!

I need more Blue Lemonade! HA HA HA!

I've had my chance to get my hands on some purple monster but, everyone I know who has ever owned a colony of it loses it within a matter of months. Its just a severly sensitive coral. The colonies don't recover too well from being fraged and the frags them selves don't respond well to the change of a new environment.

I actually drop a couple of turbos in my overflow box when algae starts to bloom in there. I havn't used anything to block the syphon, but my turbos are large and wouldn't fit through the "U" tubing anyways. They never go beyond the water level, so I let em' eat as much as possible within 3-4 hours then just pull em' out. Its the same in the box behind my tank. Two prefilter sponges block their access to the overflow holes. If you don't want to risk it then yeah block off the area.

I definately wouldn't use bio balls. They're ok for the inital few months of cycling, but eventually they begin to effect your nitrate concentration. In my opinon its best to go with a refugium rubble. Two questions, what type of corals do you plan on housing and what is the size of your tank? Im assuming your tank is atleast in the 55 gal or over range if you're using a 20 gal sump. 300 gph seems a little inadequate, because most overflow boxes for larger aquariums are rated for atleast 700 gph. You have to match your overflow rating with your return pump rating to the amount of water turnover for the type of corals you wish to keep. The last thing you want is a flood in your house because the sump or the tank overflowed. To answer you question vividaquariums.com has some pretty cool filter specs posted on their site.