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Almost new Hanna Phosphate checker. I have done probably 5 or 6 tests with it and it works great. $35

I agree with that entirely. The only reason you would need the bolts is if there were any room for play inside of the tubing. Otherwise it should work great without.

This is just a quick thought so there maybe a better way, but at least it will give you an idea. Take it to a welder and have them start by cutting the top completely off on the verticles maybe six inches down from the top so that when you remove the top the square is still in tact and has six inch legs. Then they should find the next tubing size down that fits inside the existing stand tubing, and weld the smaller diamter sections in to the inside of the stand so that you can easily slide the top on and off of the bottom. Then have them drill holes into the sections so that you can place a bolt. I would do two on each verticle. Hope that makes sense. I'm in a big hurry so no time to look over.

Is the stand steel tubing?

Sherita better said exactly what I was talking about! If your door is 35 7/8" the your frame should be a little more than 36". I just measured the standard 36" front door on my house, and the door is exactly 36". If I removed the doorstop on the frame there would be a hair over a 36.5" opening. My house was built in 2008 so it should be pretty similar to yours. The other thing I was thinking about is taking the steel stand to a local welder. Have them cut the stand at the corners and weld on brackets that would allow you to take your stand apart and then bolt it back together. I've seen stands built like this and they work great. I would try all my options before I scrapped the steel stand.

Can you easily remove the door trim? That should give you close to an inch extra

Looks like it's doing what it's supposed to, except I think you might have it skimming to dry now. Notice how te skimmate is collecting down at the top of the body of the skimmer. You wanted it set high enough where that is carried up into te cup. Hope that helps. Skimmers can be a real pain in te *** to get tuned. That's one thing that higher end skimmers are better about. Once you get them tuned you really can just leave 'em alone and let them do their thing.

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How much for the Cadlights without the lighting?

hmm...hadn't heard that about CadLights. Just gave me more to think about. Thanks for the recommendation of the Elos. I would love to have have an Elos Mini, but i'm not willing to spend that kind of money for a nano tank. Any chance you want to sell yours?

So this morning I was staring at my 100G tank thinking what it would be like to be out of the hobby, and needless to say I don't think I'd be very happy. I've had a form of a saltwater tank now for 5+ years, and am not quite ready to be rid of the hobby. So I got the okay to downgrade into some form of a nano tank. Since I haven't been on that side for quite a while I don't know what is currently the best. Here are a few things I do know: I don't want another Solana, biocube, or nanocube. It will have to be able to support SPS. I'm okay with an AIO, but I want to be able to easily clean and maintain the back compartments. Finally, I want something in the 20-40G range. From my very limited research the best tank I have found so far is the CadLights LED 22G Super Output with built in fuge. Thoughts?

I actually repaired an acrylic rx using a 5 minute epoxy that was specified for plastics. I just used a little steel wool to rough up the area first. It has worked great ever since. They sell it at HD. I would only suggest that if you don't want to make the trip to regal as weld-on is definitely the better choice. Also, the past two times I've been to regal they've waved the $25 fee. I believe that fee is really only put in place for when you order custom cut acrylic sheets.

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You know Mark I just had a thought...I'll bet it would look amazing on your sandbed!

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Thanks for the comments. You should have seen it when I first got it. It was dark purple and neon pink. It had just come out of a dirty dirty tank so it was very well fed. It lost quite a bit of color in my cleaner SPS tank.

Took this pic this morning. It is approx. 5-6" across, fat and healthy. $80 Reduced $70 Will hold with paypal

Be careful dimming those bulbs. You can change the spectrum that the bulbs are supposed to produce and create new problems. I would suggest just reducing your photo period way down. Maybe 1.5 hours a day and then increase 30 min to an hour each week

A little thing called a flood! JK well sorta... I'm glad you got it all figured out.

Sorry I can't help you there. I have never trusted a siphon system. Just too much can fail, and in my past if it can....it will. The wife usually doesn't appreciate that either.

From the pictures it kind of looks like your tank is not drilled and you are trying to make a siphon style overflow out of PVC. Am I correct with what I think I see? Can you take a pic from the side or back straight on so we can better see what is going on? If this is a siphon style overflow and a newly setup tank then my main recommendation would be two things. First, find out if your glass is tempered. If it is not the proceed on. Second, drain the tank and drill it. That will save a lot of headaches in the future. Drilling tanks is easy and only takes a small amount of time. You can install a small overflow box on the back that will never fail and look great. I wouldn't recommend the use of check valves to prevent overlows in your sump. They can and eventually will fail. All it takes is for a small piece of trash to hang up on the inside and not let the valve close. Instead you should install a sump that is large enough to hold enough water so if every fail safe failed you still would not end up with a wet floor. Also, I think you may have already done this, but just in case you haven't you can drill a small hole in the wet side of your return to create a siphon break. Just make sure you do it on the bottom of the pipe so you don't end up with a water jet shooting straight up out of the tank.