hammondegge

you may simply cut them from the rock with a razor blade and them remount them on rubble, either by securing them loosely with a rubber band or catching them between some rubble in a low flow area. they will probably grow onto the rubble within a week. sometimes superglue gel will work but the shrooms will slime a lot and make glueing difficult. if you do this outside of the tank and wipe the slime off and dry the rock - apply glue to the shroom and the rock - and allow to dry before returning to the tank it will work half of the time.

it is tough to control the mushrooms without isolating them on a rock that is seperate from the others. they may grow back from tissue left after they are cut away from the rock. if you dont want them to grow back them scrub the tissue off as best you can. good luck

the fragging went well, and i have enough for everyone who contacted me and more. i will have time to contact everyone individually over the weekend and will send pics if you asked for them. the frags should be healed by monday, and ready for pick up anytime next week. thanks for all the interest.

very cool ace. did you deconstruct a luminarc or get some help from NASA? i want to do something like that for my 200 project. did you make a template?

Ok Steve, when are you back?

bump

BTW, i can frag this monti too. it pillars and plates.

$15 for 2"

I've got that too Gabe. do you have Monti Cap red, orange or purple?

looks like yours are Floridas. Mine are Yumas. I have enough green already though. icon_colors.gif

sorry, didn't see you until after i posted, PM sent.

there are plenty for all.

blues are very limited though

do they look like this gabe?

I will put you both down for zoa frags

I am going to be preparing frags of all of these. Any interest?

Metallic Blue with Red Skirts - $15/polyp

these will be sm, med, large $10, $20, $35

these will be sm, med, large $10, $20, $35

these will be $10 each

I will make the frags tonight and tomorrow. will try to get pics of actual frags later

I will gladly trade for SPS, zoas, Rics or other LPS

This is good deal for the right person. I need to clear out some space, so i will post this here first for ARCies.

3' 175w MH and 2x95w VHO High Quality Fixture ($600 new for fixture alone) with Hamilton MH Ballast, Icecap 430 VHO ballast, 2-3' URI actinic tubes (new), 175 XM 10k bulb (2 mos).......$275.00

Fixture also holds a ball bearing cooling fan, all wiring harnesses, protective glass cover, an excellent reflector, and a DIY hanging system.

Fixture dimensions are 37"x12"x8"

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Welcome to ARC, Brad and Mikki blob7.gif

is it a 4' tank? my guess is that you will have heat issues with 4 mh bulbs. i wouldnt ditch the actinics, these will help with coloration. if the tank is only 4' why not start with the 2x250 and see if you like it. it will be enough to do what you want. then if you still want more light you can add another 250, or switch the ballasts and bulbs to 2x400. and add a chiller.

did you get it?

you know, it's not just the bulb. i believe there is the perfect bulb for the specific system as viewed by a discerning eye, yet it is often not the same bulb.  

IME i have found the perfect bulb many times. it was an reeflux 10k SE 175 paired with 2-3' actinic bulbs in a 3' fixture over a 40g tank, and it is 2 150w HQI phoenix 14k's without supplementation on my 4' shallow 55g tank, and it is a single XM 15k 175w bulb over my seahorse tank.  (oh, but i havent tried the reeflux on that one yet confused2.gif )

when my 7' 200g tank goes up i will have to start all over again with bulbs and combinations. i think this has been the hardest part of system building for me - definitly the most frustrating and costly.  

as for growth - i have seen more growth in my shallow 55 under 150w 14k's than i saw in the 40 under 175 w 10k's, this could be the brand of bulb, the temp of bulb, the depth of tank, the circulation, feedings ....

after all is said it is what you find most suitable and pleasing that is the best bulb for you.  until you have to switch everything to LED's of course  happy3.gif

you know, it's not just the bulb. i believe there is the perfect bulb for the specific system as viewed by a discerning eye, yet it is often not the same bulb.

IME i have found the perfect bulb many times. it was an reeflux 10k SE 175 paired with 2-3' actinic bulbs in a 3' fixture over a 40g tank, and it is 2 150w HQI phoenix 14k's without supplementation on my 4' shallow 55g tank, and it is a single XM 15k 175w bulb over my seahorse tank.

when my 7' 200g tank goes up i will have to start all over again with bulbs and combinations. i think this has been the hardest part of system building for me - definitly the most frustrating and costly.

as for growth - i have seen more growth in my shallow 55 under 150w 14k's than i saw in the 40 under 175 w 10k's, this could be the brand of bulb, the temp of bulb, the depth of tank, the circulation, feedings ....

after all is said it is what you find most suitable and pleasing that is the best bulb for you. until you have to switch everything to LED's of course happy3.gif

no, i was refering to Hobogato. hopefully he did get the octopus.

looks like someone is going to be building a new tank blob7.gif

If your fish will eat them, they are probably good to have. Yum.

the polyp count has doubled since then. they are very healthy.

welcome to austin and ARC blob7.gif . you can probably make it by bus to AA quite easily.

Vinh, i bought some RPE from you on ebay didnt i ? or maybe it was the other Vinh Nguyen from Garland.

Let me know if i can help you in any way here in Austin.

Robert

not overall, but i do use kalk in my auto-top off system. i was kinda thinking that it may happen if my system stirs about the same time as topping off. the pattern of coloration changes and position of the corals doesnt seem to indicate this (in relation to my return) however i do have a lot of very eratic current in the tank.

other than this possible short term peak in localized alk...alk stays at 11dkh solid

I have noticed something happening that i had not noticed before. It may be because it has not happened in in the past, or it may be because i had not noticed it.....but,....some of my brighter colored acros, notably a blue and a green, have on occaision shifted colors quite rapidly. on the green acro about half will turn rose colored (not brown), presumably overnight, and it will then color up again in about 24 hrs. this may happen once a week or so. on a blue acro a portion has turned pale purple and returned to the original intense blue only to return to purple again. i am not concerned, the colors are pleasing and the corals are healthy, but i am curious to know if others experience this.

I also have noticed a blue stag frag that will be a solid blue some days and a two tone blue fading to browns the next day. are these growth conditions? i have some of the same corals rapidly encrusting at the base with pale or white colorations.

my guess is that is due to more rapid growth than i was accustomed to seeing. what do you think?

btw this is under fairly new Phoenix 14k bulbs, ~2months old.

fwiw between the XM 10k and actinic supplement and the 14k phoenix i have seen more growth with the phoenix and i like the coloration much better. i have no actinic with the 14k.