reefman

According to Chris Brightwell, an ORP monitor can be one of the most important parameters you monitor. After establishing what your normal range for ORP in your tank is, and dip in ORP is the first sign one or more of your other parameters is out of whack. The way he describes it in his book, is its like almost a "leading indicator" to use a stock market analogy.

Stephen

I have a 1/3 hp Aqaunatik (sp?) on a 200 gal. I have 2x400W MH and am in the prcess of adding one more. I have used a chiller almost from the beginning - I think I got my first on for my 90 gal back then after the first 6 to 9 months. I consider them almost essential, especially for SPS and a lot of lights (although I see Mark disagrees), although I plan to use the fans as described above (at least in the sump area) to lessen the amount the chiller comes on and for the gas exchange.

Stephen

Thanks for the offer. I have the 3 ballasts and everything else I need for the light rack I'm building, but would consider buying an extra as a spare if someone was selling one at a good price. I'll keep the the 25% discount in mind though, if I need to buy something new.

Stephen

Don,

And if you are getting rid of any 400W stuff, what would it be? I might be interested.

Stephen

The priciple of vodka dosing is the same principle being used in the Zeo method (ZeoVit), NeoZeo (Brightwell), and System Refresh. They are all, including vodka, using a carbon source to grow the bacteria the eats the nitrate. Vodka is just another way of providing the carbon source. I have been using the NeoZeo method, and it seems to work. Others in the club are using or have used the ZeoVit and System Reefresh. I believe it works, however there is the other variable involved since I have been using it - that is the fact that I have also been doing water changes. So it could be argued that the water changes are the reason (at least in part, if not totally) for being able to get my Nitrates down. I am about to convert to a new product called NP Bio Pellets, which is basically vodka dosing in a solid pellet form. I am hoping this new product works as well, as I have tired of daily dosings of the Brightwell products.

Hopefully others here that have been or are continuing to use it in the different forms will chime in with their views.

Stephen

I agree will all of the above. I was getting RO/DI for $.20 a gal. I calculated what water would cost from my own unit, and figured in gas to/from where I was getting it from, and the RO/DI unit would pay for itself in 6 months.

At one time, I calculated what saltwater was costing me (this was when I was still buying the RO at $.20 a gal). If I remember correctly it was costing $.50 a gal (with salt mix). Even at that, that is far below what you are paying at $1.25/gal, and its less than that now, because of the RO/DI unit.

Stephen

You sure its not just tube worms?

Stephen

I like to get the magazines for the ads and pictures, and I do see articles occasionally that have good or new content, but I would recommend paying the $25 to become a premium member to Reef Central (that way you can do searches). It's generally the first place I go to look. Marine Depot has a pretty decent forum as well, and there are others too.

Stephen

Yes, I'm on my 4th tank. It's glass. Of the first three, two were glass and one was acrylic. I hated the acrylic because it was so hard to clean (algae and coraline) and so easy to scratch.

Stephen

Automatic Top Off (for fresh water to replace what has evaporated out of the tank).

Stephen

At different points I had a 90, then two 90's, and at one time 2 90's and a 135 all going at once. The time I spent on 2 90's, much less when I had all three going, was much more than I have spent on the single 200. Whether its a 40 or 300, you still have a set number of things you have to do to maintain it. Yes, I guess its takes longer to clean the glass on the larger tank, but youo still have to feed it, if you do supplements, etc., you are still spending about the same amount of time doing those things regardless of size. YOu just have larger doesages, a little longer water changes, a little longer cleaning the glass. But it take about the same amount of time to clean a skimmer cup for a 300 as it does for a 40. In fact, (although we all know you should clean them everyday), with the larger one you might not have to clean it as often.

Stephen

Gabriel gives good advice. From a time standpoint, I don't think I spend anymore time on my 200 than I did on the 90 I started with (except the water changes take a little longer because they are larger). From a cost point, I wish my electricity costs were the most significant part of running the tank. For me, it hasn't proven out that way, but it could also be argued that will be guided by an individual's philosophy. I rationalize it as, if I wasn't spending the money on the tank (which the whole family enjoys), I would probably be spending it on some other type of "toy" (be that a car, another hobby - like golf, etc.). ...and even if you get the 215 and fall in love with the hobby, you'll probably decide in a few years you wish you had something bigger - I know I do

Besides, as you said, you are looking long term (a couple of years), and it will also depend as Mark said, what your goals turn out to be. An SPS dominant tank takes a lot more "stuff" to run than a mixed reef or one with LPS and softies. A lot of those costs (both for maintenance and equipment) can be added gradually.

Stephen

Danny,

PM sent...

Stephen

That's my general understanding as well.

I have tons of those in my tank (little bitty ones) and everytime I dip a coral I have numerous of them fall off. I normally try to save as many as I can and put back into the tank.

Stephen

Has anyone seen any difference in any of the pods you use? In other words, does anyone have any opinion on DTs versus Inland Marine vs Tigger Pods, etc.? Are does it appear that they all are basically the same? What I would be interested in is being able to order a very large bulk quanity without the jars. I'm sure the jars and packaging make up a lot of the $20 those normally run.

RC has or does carry the Reef Pods (i.e. reefcleaners.org). They don't seem that freat a deal to me, as they say they only contain 300+, but I'm open if someone has other opinions.

Stephen

So you are seeding your sand beds with bristle worms, among other things?

Stephen

Offroaddodge, Are you getting the DTs at RC? I've gotten 2 from them, but haven't seen them there since.

Stephen

The health (or lack thereof) is normally and idicator of your water quality. I know, because when my Nitrates spiked the first time, the Xenia where the first things to whither away.

Stephen

Yes, I have done it, and continue to add some from time to time just to make sure the population stays up. You would not want to do it until after your tank has completely cycled.

Stephen

I thought I had heard or read somewhere that you could run AquaNotes on any computer without having to have one of their controllers. Do you know anything about that? I have a Profilux, but would like something more like you have to start graphing the parameters. I think the real value is being able to chart and review the graphs after a period of time has elapsed.

Stephen

John,

What program are you using to generate the graphs?

Stephen

I was curious when you made the post what the replies would be. I'm thinking by the lack of responses, no one uses them, which is not a big surprise. I've had an Ehiem one I've had for years that I got as part of a tank purchase and have never used it. If I can ever seem to get my water parameters and Nitrate issues I keep having under control, I would like to use one. But obviously after doing this for 4 years I'm not there yet.

Stephen

What kind is it Mark? I might be needing another one.

Stephen

I run it continuously in a Two Little Fishes reactor, and like Gabriel try to change it out about once a month.

Stephen

You can get it at Aquatic now too by the bar.

Stephen