Jimbo

sounds like Mike's (oops sorry caferacermike's ) tank is the best place for her. I wish I could have, but the small copepods seems to have been outcompeted by the larger amphipods. Glad you found a home.

Jim

hey Drew, I'd like to get some of the Fire and Ice zoas you mentioned were in your other tanks...assuming they have not been spoken for. And I'd like to get the Pavona colony too. If okay, I can come this weekend.

Thanks,

Jim

Garrett, you are about 2 months behind on this one. Give me a week, and I will have some for you.

Jim

is it strictly a pod eater, or has it adjusted to any other type of food? What type of "pods" do these eat? The tiny ones, or the ones that look like small shrimp running around on their sides? Sorry to be pod ignorant.

Jim

I have a 110 (5') lit with 2x250SE halides and 220W VHO Actinic. I did a bulb change in October and increased the number of SPS I have in the system. It seems that the SPS I had before the light change does fine anywhere in the tank, but some other types are suffering in low light. I have been moving many new frags and colonies up higher in my rock work to compensate, but that gives my tank a very unbalanced look. For a tank your size I'd look into the 250DE X 3 with supplimentation. I think (hope) you'd get more penetration to the lower levels of your tank, since the 250DE is closer in comparison to a 400SE (please someone correct me if I am wrong).

yeah, nice an convenient to Aquatek too...they used to be in the same strip center. I picked up 3 of those barrels at the end of the summer, cost me $5 each. I got to pick the ones I wanted from the plethora they had in the alley. Just make sure to really clean them out. Oh, and avoid the ones labeled "Amber"...they just never really get clean

Hey Brian, I got a 55gal drum...you'd be halfway there.

If that works for you, let me know and it is yours to use. If you need more, call Austin Homebrew (right down the road from Aquatek) and they sell them anywhere from $5-20 depending on how many they have.

My only other offer is an empty 75 gallon Oceanic.

well, I was just looking back at her post, and she said it was 1" glass....that kinda sucks that it was only .5". A little misrepresented, but as long as the quality is there. Again, nice tank!

Ben, is that the tank that was being sold on MAAST by Reefgrl? Nice tank either way, I love the dimensions.

Jim

If you are still looking, I need to do some trimming. Just let me know and I will set some aside for you, or anyone else for that matter.

PM me for contact info.

Between here and there, there will not be too much of a selection. And from what I remember, all the good SW stores are across town in Houston, close to the loop, a bit of a drive from Katy. You might have a better response if you post this on MARSH. Or at least go there and get the LFS listing.

Have a good Thanksgiving.

Jim

Glad to hear you are moving this direction. Let us know when you need help with the tank(s) move.

Too bad you can't bring the garage with you...I guess Christina will just have to show her skills at your new place.

I would remove the bioballs in thirds.  Take out one third, wait about a week and half of what is left, and then in another week remove the rest.

I agree with Enigma13 on this. Remove about a third at a time is a great idea. Don't forget that as you are adding LR to the sump, you are going to get some die-off from that (it always happens), and you are going to be stirring up a little more detritus with the removal of the Bioballs, just skim heavy.

I think the bioballs are great for a FO or FOWLR and sand-bed, but they cause too many problems for a reef tank. And keeping them out of the water will be fine since most are used in trickle filter type sumps anyway.

Good luck.

Jim

I've got some egg crate left over, and a few small pieces of rubble (I think). I'll bring what I have when I come by later.

Jim

I'd like the Orange and Green Caps

LMK if they are still available.

most RO units are designed to be run at a specific pressure or higher. You cannot get the rejection from the RO membrane unless the pressure is correct. Look to the manufacturer of the membrane to see what the operating pressure should be. I know some 100GPD membranes require 35-40 psi. Also, if your unit does not have a pressure gauge in-line, you may want to add one of those too.

No, it is actually a problem with marindepot's shopping cart. If you have put anything into the cart, it will take you to the last item you viewed. Use the number (RO1312) at the end of the link and search the site using that. It should bring you right to the meter.

Jim

No idea, but once I get mine you are welcome to come look at it.  I live right around the corner from you.

Thanks...I'll take you up on that offer.

And thanks to you too Andrew. I was starting to think there was some new slang I wasn't aware of

I was looking at the group buy section and there was talk about this meter from Marinedepot.com http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp...dproduct=RO1312

I have that same meter on my RO unit, works great. However, my daughter started playing around with the electrodes and got them all twisted from how they were originally. So, my question is, how are the 2 conductors inside the fittings supposed to be aligned? Meaning, does the water flow go past one, then the other (so when you look in the opening all you see is one conductor) or should I see both when I look in the hole, kinda like a fork. The TDS readings are different depending how I align them. There is also a dot on both of them, I assume from the original alignment, but that skews them a little from 90* in-line.

Hope that makes sense. I just want to make sure I get the right reading, since I can make it say "0" by turning it a little. Not the best way to achieve "0" TDS.

Jim

edit...seems that the language checker is blocking the word "f i t t i n g s" in the above post...not cursing here.

I can see if we can mix types...that may have been a restriction on case quantity, i.e. all bulbs in one case must be the same. Let me check, and I will let you know.

Oh yeah, they do have to be XM.

Jim

I'm about to get some new bulbs, and I have been kicking around the idea of getting a group order together. I pesonally want 10K XMs, but any color on the order will be ok, but the bulb style has to be SE (no mix and match on that). I know the order will have to be over $250 (should be easy), but more discounts on cases of 12. Anyone interested? If so, I will get prices and place this in the Group Order section.

Jim

Only problem with these plugs is that they're much better for mounting stony coral that grows upwards.

plus they seem to be made longer than they used to be. So now they all seem to be about 2.5 inches at the smallest, but you might be able to cut them down.

For softie frags, I like to take ugly base/live rock and smash it with a hammer . Lots of little frag plugs.

I think I remember that Hobby Lobby had them, but I was unable to find them at Michael's.

Here's a link to a page that has them, so you can get an idea of what they look like and how much they will cost. They come in a lot of different sizes, but you need to look them up as "water tubes" or "flower water tubes".

3.5" water tubes

Or different sizes / colors

Jim

Nate,

I'd be interested in a couple of pieces. I really just want to see how they will color up in a couple of months to see if it is a project I want to do for my "next" tank.

I could meet up with you sometime this weekend or next week.

thanks.

Jim

If you are having the tank built for you (sounds like it with the low iron glass) then you probably want to go ahead and have it drilled for closed loop. That way, if you do decide to add a closed loop in the future, you do not have to have more stuff hanging in the tank (returns and intake for CL). If you don't use them, just cap the bulkheads off in the tank.

At least, that's what I would do...especially seeing as how I want to drill mine, but I won't since that will involve draining the tank.