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Jimbo

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Posts posted by Jimbo

  1. Just found out that my teacher wife is not going to be able to secure full time employment, so I am looking to supplement the family with a part-time job.

    If anyone knows of evening (6-12) jobs in the Domain area, I would greatly appreciate any tips. Not looking for top salary, just something to cover what we are losing. I would be able to work 3 evening, and possibly a Saturday/Sunday shift. I probably would not qualify for a sales job, since I last did any retail sales in '92, but I am willing to try.

    I am a Network Administrator by day, have worked call center, computer repair, Management, and labor positions (painting, sheetrock install, etc), and love fish. So, unless the job has very specific requirements, I hope I would meet the requirements.

    Thanks for looking. If you know of something, PM me, or post here, please.

    Jim Allen

  2. If you need to borrow some powerheads for movement while you wait for the silicone to cure, I have a K4 and a SEIO 1100 that you can borrow. If you need them, call me at 565-7114 and we can discuss a place to meet to make it more convenient for both of us.

    Jim

  3. I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out.

    The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece.

    Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

    That's kind of what I thought, but he had described the pins method first, so I thought it was for some other reason.

    Thanks.

  4. I'm down to go for sure! The last time I went it was spur and ended up being high tide (something to account for) also the locations? Do you guys know the hot spots?

    I went with the other site 2 times ago, right smack in the middle of Hurricane Dotty. It missed the coast, but brought in the high tides and sargassam seaweed. The swimming sucked (and sucked you under) but the collection was pretty good because of all the weeds. Many, many SH's, pipefish, anglers and all the Sargent Majors you could want.

    Went just with the family last year, water was clear, swimming was great, collection was not in my agenda. But my daughter LOVES Port A, so I might try to talk the family back into it. Only problem is what to do with the 1 month old (she will be at that time) and it also happens to be my mother's birthday.

    With regards to where to stay and such, the Mariner Inn and suites has always given pretty good rates to the MAAST group, and that is also where I chose to stay last year. Nice place...not too nice for coming in all sandy. Close to the jetty (not walking but short drive), close to restaurants, pool, and free eats in the morning. They also have a meeting room if anyone wants to turn this into an education meeting type event.

  5. I find it ridiculous that I had to pay for a membership just to have a reliable search engine, which is about the only thing I use the site for...plus viewing the crazy large tanks. I can do that without a membership.

    I used the free search called google :)

    I stopped going to RC when they restricted the For Sale forum to those with quantity posts...I bought many things before that, and really saw no need to restrict it like they did. Just because I wasn't active and making posts with jibberish or bumps doesn't make me a bad person. :)

  6. Since you had the rock curing in a remote tub, I could agree that your levels would be near zero, but I don't think that process was long enough especially considering that you just bought some rock on the 5th.

    Take a sample of water to RCA and have them check it, just to make sure. If in fact they are truly 0 detectable NH3 and NO2, then you can pick up some CUC while you are there. I would NOT add a fish that you do not have in your long-term keep list (ie a yellow tail damsel). I would also (in my own hindsight) stick with snails, and nix the crabs.

  7. In looking at your question again, you probably have a bulkhead with a slip connection on the inside of the exposed part. In that case, you will have to glue in the reducer.

    The other option would be to get a corrugated hose of some kind (many times this is 1 1/4") and clamp it to the outside of the bulkhead. You can then clamp that to the reducing fitting on your sump, or reduce it using a hose reducer.

  8. And as always you need to ask yourself why in the world are you planning on adding a valve to your overflow?

    It is a waste of time and money. It is all a simple game of physics.

    Your rate of water going into the overflow is 100% directly related to your return pump. If you size your pump accordingly all will be well. Period. If you have to use a valve there, you've done something 100% wrong.

    +1

    There should be no restriction on your overflow...that's just another place scale or snails or junk can bulk up and cause, well, an overflow of the bad kind.

    Back to the question. I find Lowes has a better choice of fittings. If you do have a bulkhead with a 1 1/4" inner diameter, you can use a reducer to something more manageable (should be able to find a threaded reducer 1 1/4 x 1) then use a threaded nipple to your hose (if that is what you are using). If you want to use rigid or flex PVC, then you can get a male adapter for the reducer and glue in your pipe.

    HTH.

    Jim

  9. By the way, what thermometer are you guys using to determine your temp?

    -t

    I have a floating glass thermometer...can't remember the brand. I also have a sinking glass one in the frag tank in the garage. Both read the same, and that just so happens to be the same temp that registers on my chillers controller.

    By the way, when I did the ice test, I found my old coralife to be 4 degrees too low.

  10. My experience with those coralife digital thermometers is that they are almost always off. Take it and place it in a glass (or cup) filled with ice and just enough water to float the ice, read the temp after about 5 minutes. The temp should be just above 32. My bet would be that it is not. You can use that to make an approximate adjustment (+/-) to find out your real temp.

    But, Brooks has it right. Stability is key. This time of year, mine is running between 77-78.

  11. Nope, "Jim Bob" is high on the list tho... doh.gif

    as a James Robert myself, I don't know if I should take offense to this or not :gun:

    If you do name him something as totally awesome as James Robert, at least for his sake, Dallas is not on the air anymore :doh: . And he could have a totally cool nickname, like Jimbo :punk:

  12. why not try something like plastic clothes hangers, cut to size. Or you can also get some fiberglass rods (with reflectors) from Home Depot or Lowes. Just cut to size. They are just about as rigid, maybe more so, than the acrylic rods.

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