Dogfish

$40,000 per acre with 300 feet of creek front.

2 hours ago, Gig 'em @ NDstructible said:

Anything with a mohawk gives a bad first impression, no one will want to buy them then. Some middle school teacher told me this, so it must be true

I resemble that remark. It was prob an english teacher. We never saw eye to eye. Maybe it was the eye liner. Was never good at impressing people with my stunning good looks and green hair. I would take the urchins but im way too far away.

No sump Its a HOB. Im stumped.

New salt bucket?  New media of any kind?  UV? New livestock?

1 hour ago, o0zarkawater said:

Or can you get Ty to go over and take your pictures? I like his pics a lot better.

Ouch ..... new special pricing

The only way to be sure, is if someone offered a consignment deal of some sorts. That way they would not be out of pocket for the frags. Their only cost would be the tank lights and up keep. If they sold some them and didnt kill them they might just do it on their own. Or not.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/metric-to-standard-pvc-adapters.html

Im in if anyone wants to try a group buy. Dont know how many is a lot? Im starting a 20 gallon fuge over the weekend and will have some macro algae coming in next week. Will need to pods to keep up with the gardening .

https://phys.org/news/2018-08-chemists-blue.html

I agree. Too much pressure not good. My tank water enters the pvc just before the recirculating pump. My Co2 comes into the pvc as the water gets sucked back to the pump. This prob causes some suction on the Co2 pipe.

1 hour ago, Isaac said:

i have a ball valve coming of my manifold, then the needle valve for fine control.  ball valves over time become very inconsistent and hard to get in the exact spot when you wanna dial something in.

I never worried about the ball valve coming off my manifold. I guess my pressure is not that much to have to throttle it back. I close it once a week when i do water changes. Other than that it stays wide open.

I dont have one on my GEO. Its the old version of the 818.  I do get some bubble accumulation at the top over time. Gas should rise to the top of the second chamber. As long as you dont put the end of the dripper hose in the water any gas should come out into the air. You could always hold the end of the dripper up higher than the chamber. Shake the chamber to purge any excess gas. Maybe once a year. i duno

On 8/5/2018 at 5:44 PM, Isaac said:

flip the secondary in/out. put the filter & needle valve on the manifold end.  you'll clog up much faster w/ the current order.

9 minutes ago, HarleyGuy said:

So put the needle valve on the water coming in from the tank? I have a ball valve on my manifold, is that not enough control? Also leave the effluent output with just a pipe/tube, no way to control the flow?

I think you are confused like me , I had to read this again.

He wants you to move the output from the main reactor to down at the bottom of the secondary and make the top the output to the tank. Upflow, so the sediment stays in the secondary reactor.

The ball valve is plenty to control the water input to the reactor.

The needle valve is fine. You need something there to control the drip. If its running thru the pre filter i dont see it clogging.

I have a plastic block that has a hole drilled thru it for the tube to go thru.  A thumb screw screws into it. Pinches the tube. Tighten or loosen the screw to control the drip. Low tech

Mee Too

500+ gallons plus 100g sump. Tank at 78.5  House at 74. I lose about 4 gallons a day in evaporation and skimming.

Howdy and welcome.

I have an idea for my new fuge (20 gallon tall). Im thinking of piping the water that enters the fuge, under the substrate. Underwater spray bar of sorts. This should force the debris from the macro, out from under the substrate rather than settling underneath and creating the zone of crud. Not that there is anything wrong with the zone of crud as a low oxygen de nitrate zone, but I dont see the need at this time. The water will then flow over a partition and exit the fuge. I need some input on why this will work or why not and any ideas. I read some stuff about plenums. There is tons. I did use undergravel filters when I had fresh water tanks. That forced air underneath and sucked water out.
I'm old and don't have that much time to get educated to the fullest on using one with a salt water tank. I plan on having macro, pods and other things growing in it. Would a base (undergravel filter), egg create on pvc or something like that, rock rubble then some calcium media on top of that be ok. Force the water under and it should push up. I think sand is too fine and will create a messy cloud if disturbed.
For the future I was planing on building an ATS that will sit on top of the fuge as an way to convert waste to food.
Im sure I forgot something but company has arrived so i must put on "the host with the most" hat
Cheers

This is posted on RC and R2R

Looks like a professional did this . My output comes off the pipe at the top and not the reactor . It has enough force to flow 10 feet to the sump without a lifter. I dont have secondary chamber.

Yes the price is showing

This is what I use. 15gallon chemical barrel. Coming from that industry, they were a dime a dozen. Hard to dispose of.

https://www.ruralking.com

They used to stock tanks plastic tanks and shipped for free. I have not looked in a year or so. You can always call them.

15 hours ago, Bburrage04 said:

Hello reef family. I am currently running a 55 gal and I was recently handed and blessed with a 90 gallon tank. Im still new so would like some input as well as feedback and opinions. I’m currently running a hang off the back overflow to my sump with 1”pvc

1 will that work with the 90 gallon?

If it works for you in a 55 it will work in a 90. As long as you dont try to change the amount of flow. LIke if you were to get a larger return pump your overflow system might not handle it.

The Fish Gallery in Austin closed but there is still one in San Antonio. They do maintance  on my neighbors tank and he is happy with them. I cant say one way or another or if they do setups or are any good, but it might be worth a phone call.

10 hours ago, HarleyGuy said:

Is Milwaukee a good regulator? I'm running an APEX so I can add another PH probe. Please explain the setup of this secondary chamber. 

I use a smith dual gauge regulator. I think they are less than $100. I use a milwaukee ph controller. You can use your apex.

There are a few ways to set the reactor up as you will find. I have mine set so the Co2 bubble rate is constant and keeps a 7.0 ph in the reactor without the controller having to cycle on and off. It is set to shut off the Co2  only if the ph gets too low in the reactor. (below 6.8 in my case) I use reborn media. My drip rate is very fast, almost a stream. This keeps it from wanting to clog and slow down. I also put Neo-mag in mine so i do not have to dose magnesium.

There is also this youtube thing running around the forums

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwlvfgDvQqg

The secondary chamber is for the excess Co2 that passes thru your first chamber. It allows you to use less Co2 because you are passing it thru more media, thus using it more efficiently.

I only have an old iphone and it takes lousey pictures. You prob could not even see a color difference with it.

I have had 2 monti's for about 3 months now. Thanks to Juiceman and they are growing. The red looks pretty normal and is still red. The green one has turned purple from the middle to about 1/2 inch near the edges. It is getting really thick with all the new growth. It has prob gotten 3 times thicker than when I got it. Looks like the Napali coast of Hawaii. This is all new growth. Any idea why the change in color? Kessil lights. Cal 435. Mag 1420. Alk 8.9.