Dogfish

So a few of my friends have showed up in places I cant reach with a hypo.

I need some known killers.

If anyone is looking to part with a few for free or cheap let me know.

On my pipes in the 125, I used Krylon sand finish. I would avoid any thing with metalic in it. It might be ok but better safe than ...  I think that Krylon Fusion paints are safe for in the tank applications. I painted my return pipes black that are in my overflow box and it is not coming off nor do I see any bad effects and my coral. I think as long as you let it dry for a week, most of the solvent carrier will evaporate.

U can use pvc 90 elbows point them towards the back. Use strainers on the ends so stuff wont get sucked in. Paint them black or with that sand type paint and you wont see them too much.

An idea.   On my 125 someone had drilled holes in the bottom. I used those for the intakes for a closed loop and the returns were 2 "sea swirls" giving me random flow.

These have been picked up and are no longer avail.

I have 2ea Marine Pure blocks. 8x8x4. They have been soaking in salt water for 6 months. I decided I have no use for them. If ya want them you have to come to Wimberley to get them.

Im also looking for a EB4 or EB8 Apex power strip .
 

Accident waiting to happen. I made this screen for my overflow to keep new additions out of the box. It looks like it makes a good algae scrubber.

I had a canister filter on my 125. It was one of these except squarish, left over from freshwater days. Might have been a marineland. I think it had 5 media baskets. I also had a sump and it sucked and returned water to the sump. It was used before I had reactors. It polished water (charcoal and polishing pads) and removed po4 (gfo). You can put what ever media in them you want . They can be useful if you maintain them. I also have a small one I use now on the 55 qt. Adds some flow and allows me to run 1 type of media at a time. Sort of a pain when changing it out from 1 type to another (ie... gfo, to charcoal to filter pads )

http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/product/A214-fx4-high-performance-canister-filter/

You get them from the sponge expert Steve Tyree.

http://reeffarmers.com/

Sounds like Ty is hide something in his water???????

I have not tried them. (disclaimer) I have had other worms.  It is my understanding Xmas worms like strong current and med to low light. The worms are filter feeders and will need some type of food at least once a week to survive. The coral/rock  they are on should be fine in the same conditions but can be problematic under low light.

More info

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/christmas-tree-worms.282140/

If Ty got a different reading, im thinking that the new test kits are the same batch and the chemicals in the kits are off a little. Other than that I have no clue.

Manufacturing / expiration date on new test kits the same?

They will all work. No need for 3 gate valves. You just need 1. Better flow thru sani "T" . Just be sure that in your trickle drain, you have air coming in, so it does not create the full siphon unless the air tube/ hole gets covered.

Well  if ya know where he registered his domain. You create a web site that looks like theirs. You send ty an email saying something about if he wants to sell frags he needs to click here and confirm this. Then he enters his name and password. Then presto you can login and transfer it to....... execept in reverse Since he already owns it we dont need to do this .

Sorry, farmerty.com is taken

Yes! farmertys.com Your domain is available.

Stage coach just arrived from Abilene. Tyree starter sponge rocks. Cryptic so, no light, no pictures, no air. Packaged for the scientist.

5 hours ago, BobcatReefer said:

Negative.  Without a battery, if power from the grid goes down, you go down as well.  It's a dead man switch, otherwise the workers couldn't fix the power lines safely - all the solar panels would be pushing electricity back into the grid.  Theoretically, it could be set up to power the house and not push into the grid during an outage, but my guess is that option would be 1) cost prohibitive and 2) create issues w/ the give/take agreement between the utility provider and the homeowner.

The 20K option. Good for 24hrs.

https://www.tesla.com/powerwall

Check his "cleaning out the tank room" pile . I hear he just tosses them out he has so many.

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/1/inverts

A sad day for sure. Maybe its time for some off site back up  (hint hint).

If it is concentrated in certain spots then siphoning out those spots would be helpful. Replenish that water with new. If its just all over, then blowing it and getting it into the water column with your pumps on high will let the filter socks do their job.  Do this a couple of times in 8 hours,  then change out the socks when the water clears. Some will settle again so repeating the process will get more and more. Doing a water change will help as long as the stuff is in the water column, but will use up salt. Its all manual labor.

Im in Wimberley. I have a friend up the hill that has a 250 gallon metal tub that's a water garden. He has a few small goldfish now. I feed them when he is on vacation If there are no takers I can email him and ask if he wants them. They be living outside in the fresh air (water)

8 hours ago, Jen_h said:

 Added kalk to my ato, after my ato dumped a bunch of freshwater into the sump. I’m really confused why when I fill the up the reservoir later it just dumps water until the float valve stops it. Seems like it’s only an issue when I fill it up. Now I’m kind of worried about the problem since there’s kalk in there. Any ideas?

Is it overfilling the return chamber in the sump by a lot? If it is then maybe the pump has created a siphon and water flows even with the pump off. If not then first thing comes to mind is one of the sensors is not working. One tells it to fill when low and the other tells it its full. The full is not working. The float valve is the back up. The float valve should stop it close to where the full level is. Its looks like its close to the full sensor level. If this is correct and its taking that much to fill the sump from low to high then you need to place the low /full sensors closer together if you want to use that ATO container.

Dont know about the freq. but I have to clean my mp60 covers once a week to get the cyano off.

Im going to say its diatoms. Have you added any new rock or  sand. Even plastic will contain silicates. Thats what they feed on. Since vibrant is just bacteria it will not kill them. Neither will chemi clean. In dried form they are used for many things including tooth paste.