cmanning

Scopas Tang has a new home. Thanks Capt. Obvious & fam. for taking him.

Pick Up Pending.

PM sent.

While rearranging some rockwork....... a few corals got knocked off. These are the frags I have available. Tri-color Acro from Aquatek. This is the mother colony One 2 1/2" frag w/multiple branches $20---SOLD One 2" frag $15---SOLD One 1 1/2" $10---SOLD Green staghorn w/baby blue tips Two 3" $20---SOLD One 2" $15---SOLD One 1 3/4" $10 ---SOLD Blue Milli This is the mother colony. Two 1" multiple branches $10---BOTH SOLD One 1 1/2" multiple branches $15---SOLD Yellow/green milli This is the mother colony. One 3 (1/2") tips encrusted over 2" on rock. $10---SOLD Green slimer I have no pics of this one. One 2" branching out. $15---SOLD Thanks for looking.

He's yours - can you come get him tomorrow? - We caught him out of the main reef and his temporary home is our 36 gal bowfront softy tank (easy to catch fish in) and he needs to come out of there before he eats all of our beautiful red dragons breath that we keep in it.

He is Fine with any other fish (he's been in our main reef tank for all his life). The only other fish he has ever killed is our other (would have been 4 yrs old also) yellow tang that he "grew up with". BUT: As of late (last three months) he has badgered other tangs - including our Regal, and Dussumieri Tang, but those are well equipped to handle his crap) and he has been actively attacking the Purple Tang . He has pretty much ignored all of our other fish.

FREE 4 yrs. old Scopas Tang Will kill any other Zebrasoma - guaranteed, or your money back!. You have been *warned* - this fish is not returnable. Would be OK in a mixed tang-environment so long as no other Zebrasoma family members are in the tank. Has successfully killed : 1 LARGE Yellow tang, and has now almost killed a Purple, and a Sailfin .. We've had him since he was only 25 cent size and he's now about 4-1/2 to 5 inches long and mean as a cat in a bag full of mice.

Controllers which do not have ethernet connection are a PITA IMHO. Also - for the price they should at a minimum provide a built in webserver interface similar to what the 79.00 DSL router/firewall boxes have on them, so the end users do not have hell adjusting them via a silly up/down +/- 2-line LED interface. The only value in the LED or LCD on the controller itself, is perhaps a quick glance as you approach the tank that visually, everything looks OK. - But, of course a good controller would have emailed your cellphone the instant any parameters went out of your specified limits, and you would know something was going wrong *before* it's "too late". If you are going to pump 100's of dollars into something - make sure it does *save* your thousands in coral livestock. It should at a minimum, 1.) Have an ethernet port 2.) Provide a web interface that allows you to program it via your home computer via either Firefox, Mozilla, or IE. 3.) Have a feature to automatically email you if any parameter goes beyond a limit you decide or if there is a power failure.. (Temp too high/low, or power failure at the house while you are at work so you can run home and start the genny, PH out of whack indicating your top-off is going crazy, etc,etc..) 4.) Be able to be powered by a UPS and still detect mains power loss to your other equipment. 5.) Provide dry contact inputs to allow you to extend it to monitor any other devices you add that provide contact close-on-alarm outputs so these can be tied into the controller, and programming based on these devices status added in at your discretion. ALL of the brands available are really too high-priced for what they do or don't do..

Just like the title says. First $40 (that's how much I paid) takes it. Note: This fish is very boisterous.....a little to daring for the rest of our peaceful fish in our tank. It will eat small fish (anything from an 1"-1 1/2"). This fish is always out in the open water ....... all day showing its personality, nothing shy about this fish. Oh!! I forgot you must have a covered tank......tilefish are jumpers.

We have been running our Calcium reactor with this one http://www.milwaukeetesters.com/SMS122.html for about 2 years, and it appears to stay in calibration pretty good. Also - it was only $100.00 and comes with the controlled 120v outlet to turn off the CO2 when the PH drops below your setpoint. The thing about PH testers/controllers I have found is this: IF you don't keep the probe constantly immersed (like when you store it) and the thing dries out, then it gets pretty much ruined. So since the pocket testers run about 35 bucks anyway, I would go ahead and get one that you can keep in the tank all the time. (The SMS122 we have has outlasted everything else - those pocket testers are just too easy to forget about and let the bulb tip of the probe dry out) - then they are basically shot. We went through 2 of those.- plus in those - the electronics wind up too close to the salt H2O and salt creep becomes a problem. The units like the one we have have a really long cord going to the PH probe, so you can mount the box far away from the salt water, and immerse the probe in your overflow box so it's always measuring the water as it flows by. There's a cheaper model than the 122, it's not a controller, just a monitor, but -if you ever plan on having a Calcium reactor setup then shoot for the controller, that way it becomes useful to run a Ca reactor, (you need it to turn on/off the CO2 solenoid valve than keeps the PH in the reactor at 6.4 to 6.8) In the meantime, it can be used to just constantly monitor the PH in your system. One thing it won't do: It won't keep a "running chart" of your ph swings in any memory like a Neptune or other multicontroller does, but those cost big money, and you did say cheap

If you just let it be...it can get stringy and start covering areas in patches. You can also tell by the bubbles, they start adhering to it.

Yup, that's cyano alright. Try siphoning it out, cut back on feeding for a little while, do some water changes and also if there's a way to place a cartridge of carbon (or some carbon in some type of chamber, it will help.

Happy Birthday! You still look like a "spring chicken" ......that's what my husband calls me, cause I'm younger then him.

I've got some purple.....small piece but you can have it and also I have a green that became discolored for some reason but I think is regaining its color back. -Cindy-

Agree on the refractometer, easy to ready, easy to clean and can calibrated w/RO water. Test Kits I don't spend too much money on the Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, KH. ---We use the AP. Test Kits for Calcium and Magnesium, use Seachem kits. Ditto on the PH probe.....so much easier to keep track.

Welcome to the club! What are tank's dimensions? IMO, if you decide on lighting go w/some T'5, less heat, the high output of lighting its amazing. The combination of bulbs is something you would like to see in person. Some folks here have there setups running T'5s.

Well thanks guys, think I got an overall idea in the "how to". Actually I'm in the process of pursuing someone to frag it but there could be a problem if its attached to a very large rock.

Darn Mike, Where did you find it? Very unusual coloration and its beautiful.

Thanks Dustin........I like the fact the guy posted step by step pictures. Wonder if you can keep chalices on the substrate or do they have to be mounted on the aquascape. Hmmmmm.