Reburn

Wrasses are interesting little fish but very sensitive. A lot of wrasses don't move well. Even tank to tank in the same house. I have experienced this same thing myself. I have even had them thriving in QT to just decline in 3 days and die. What I was told by a long time wrasse enthusiast is wrasses don't handle stress well at all of any kind. Some do better then others.

Nice! I think you've been hanging out with Reburn too much. [emoji4]

Honestly I think Reburn is copying me

Yea that's it........

Says my older mini me and his REALTOR.......

hahahahahaha

That's a great pack at an outstanding price.

That's less then $20 a piece. Smoking hot deal!!!

My rock ended up baking for 18 months instead of the planned 6.........

Very good explanation of cpvc. It's also referred to as the devil. Why it's on your water softner is anyone's guess. It doesn't need it and it shouldn't be there.

As far as your tank, talk is cheap......if I had a dollar for every time I hear my tank is shipping soon I'd have a bunch of dollars. Felix is a good guy and it's definitely worth the wait. The oh so long day dragging wait. I'll believe it when I see pictures of the tank getting on the truck.

I would cut the blue down to a max of 9 hrs and the whites down to a max of 6 hrs. IMO permanently. The nighttime LEDs shunt have any effect but I would only run mine for 2 hours or so.

Yep then increased flow and reduced lighting.

What are your parameters. Are you testing p04 with a Hanna?

A box your girlfriend puts you in when your bad?

So I worked out another kink yesterday. I'm running the tank at 80. When the halides turned in I could see a steady increase over the 5 hr photo period to 82 degrees. Some days 81.6, 81.7. So I have been contiplating cutting 200mm fans into the top of the halides to pull air through the casing and vent it up. If you have been following the thread you know I decided to run my mogul based halides without the glass. Since they are 20" reflectors I just didn't want to put the weight on the light rack and also the only way you can get the glass out to change the lamp is by pulling the glass out for the back. Thanks Hamilton for that bad design...... This makes it impossible to do when the rack is in the air. Now I did design the rack where I can pull it down fairly easily. I decided it wouldn't hurt to put the glass back in to see if that helped the heat problems. All in all it took 30 minutes to take the rack down and put the glass back in and rehang the rack.

The result yesterday is the tank only rose 0.5 degrees. I'm quite happy and am going to be running with the glass in the fixture it looks like. I still haven't completely scrapped the fan project but I'm going to table it for the time being and monitor the temperature of the halides and tank when they are running for a couple days.

Victoly, that CO2 meter look familiar?

For the probes in the overflow, I was just thinking if you had any probe dependent programming, that the overflow would not be truly indicative of your tank conditions if the return flow ever ceased, but you are right, it would be a similar issue in the sump, though at least it would be a large volume of water and may give a reading closer to actual conditions then the finite amount in the overflow.

Hah, yup. Glad its being used to fuel the advancement of this reef forum.

I told you, I'm full of hot air, there's no stopping it. [emoji12]

Yeah, definitely going to try some house plants out. I just don't have enough natural sunlight in my windows and my wife loves to neglect plants while I'm out of town. I feel like they would just die. I guess I could have a grow lamp that turns on at night to help reduce CO2 levels at night.

Honestly you're probably better off either just using outdoor air for your simmer intake OR using soda lime to remove CO2 to the skimmer intake.

But seriously, everyone says skimmer line drawing outside air will work I have done it and your like, nah bro, some idiot says get some house plants and your like that's is a marvelous idea......and for the record indoor plants with grow lights usually gets the cops called on you.

You could always. #breatheless.

Or try to get some house plants

I don't know if either are available locally I Amazon almost everything nowadays.

I just picked up a cobalt oxypro for like 35 on Amazon. You really need a proper air stone in my experience.

Look to be either blacker ice or snowflake I can't ever keep the 2 designs straight. I didn't know tim so I couldn't say for sure.

Ive done exactly what you did. I found that the airstone didn't make as much as an impact as I hoped and it basically turned the area I had it in into a skimmer compartment where the Skimmate just formed on the walls and was a pain to clean off. I have had much better success running an 3/8" airline outside for my skimmer.

Paraguard is only effective against velvet if dosed daily at lights out for 21 days and only effective against ich if dosed daily for 30 days.

3 days isn't doing much really. Even for fin rot they reccomend 7 days.

The reason behind dosing at lights out is the Paraguard breaks down faster with uv exposure.

My QT method taught by Nuxx

Week 1 Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone)

Week 2 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone)

Week 3 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone)

Week 4 prazipro Monday, Paraguard daily with a 50% water change on day 7 (no skimmer, no carbon or chemipure but heavy aeration via airstone)

Weeks 5-8 observe, resume skimmer, carbon or chemipure, stop airstone

Notes: Paraguard will bun the decorative fins of fish like Yasha gobies or flasher wrasses. They will grow back. I use a Jebao Doser to dose Paraguard since. Paraguard has a pretty wide safety margin for being overdosed (4x). I dose prazipro in half doses 12 hrs apart on the first day of the week. Prazipro is known to create a bacterial bloom that will lower the dissolved oxygen of the water.

Yea I know

Luckily my wife is a good sport and helped me clean up the water. It was 3-5 gallons. I just forgot and stuck my head up you know where.

Mental note of a rookie mistake. Sand adds displacement. If you add 220 lbs of sand and don't take out water it will come out on its own.

Everything performed well. Skins came off easy enough (they are still bolted on so they take a minute)

Everything is back together.

You know how I feel about regulators.......with my sgt5000

The carbon Doser regulators aren't bad. They are just horribly overpriced IMO. Same with the GLA but if your not in the planted community you may not know the custom regulators exist.

I run a GLA paintball reg on my 5g pico planted, it's a bear to adjust but very stable once it's dialed in. Sorry for the digression.

Pretty !!!!

Good job getting something better than a carbon Doser

What? Is this real?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you seen Inception?

Happy to report no leaks. Yea yea I didn't do a 12 hr static test. I did 2 hrs and got impatient.

Flow. (System clocked in at 160 gallons of actual water)

Carbon reactor 70 gph fed off return pump - target 80 gph

Recirculating skimmer 165 gph fed off return pump - target 200 gph for 1.5 turnover per hour (a little lower then I would like but maxed out for John guest tubing)

Algae scrubber 120 gph fed off return pump - target 280 gph (a lot lower then I would like but maxed out for 1/2" John guest tubing) may get put on its own pump. Currently at 15 gph per inch of screen. Should be at 35 gph per inch. It will work at that low flow rate but it's decreasing it from a 2 cube a day scrubber to a .75 cube a day scrubber.

GFO reactor - stand alone

Carx - 30ml/min

Returns - anybody's guess

Now just fine tuning.

Tim,

Way to catch it..........36 months later.......

The grinch lol.

I could have used another couple inches too.

Tanks wearing me out. It's about to be this time.