Daniel
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Everything posted by Daniel
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Wow, no kidding? I have the exact same setup as you (I upgraded my original BRS kit) + booster pump, and I am not getting anything close to that. I am getting about 5 gallons every 75 minutes, or roughly 4 gallons an hour. What am I doing wrong? I have two new 75 gpd RO membranes (both are under two months) and new pre-filters.
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Gosh, with all the acans and scollys he has, he must have spent a fortune on that tank.
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I acans.
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Would a relay be unnecessary if you just splice the float in a series circuit?
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PM Sent.
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PM Sent.
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I don't think a canopy will be a problem. If the canopy is tall enough and the lights aren't unreasonably close to the water, one 120mm fan as an intake and one to exhaust on opposite ends should be sufficient. I would put those fans on a simple timer to turn on/off with the T5s. I use the Cooler Master 120mm fans on my canopy because they're quiet and are rated for a decent amount of airflow. You might also want to consider enclosing a portion of the backside of the canopy as this will better accommodate airflow across the water. A chiller may not be necessary, but an auto-topoff would be a good idea.
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Generally, as it was found out later, the pressure in a very tall skimmer diminishes the effectiveness of typical venturi-driven pumps. Assuming a strong enough pump, you can make the skimmer as tall as you want. What's important is 1) giving the bubble sufficient "contact time" with the water and 2) diminishing turbulence.
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I believe you are referring to vermetid worms. They are generally harmless, but can sometimes become a nuisance when they grow too quickly. See below:
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I like it. Is the taller island designed to cover most of the overflow?
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I have a single mandarin in my 90g and he's quite fat, for a mandarin. I have had it for ~10 months, so I know it's eating. I have probably 80+lbs of LR, with a relatively open rockscape. However, the rock I have is very porous. I would wait for the copepods to establish themselves before attempting a mandarin. Also, the more you feed your other fish, the less likely they are to develop a taste for the copepods. I can see copepods on the glass all the time, so I know their population is stable.
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How much were you planning to scale back the flow? I have about 400gph (roughly 4-5x) through my sump with good results. I have a tee on my return line which redirects at least half of the water from my return pump back into the first chamber of my sump. I would recommend this strategy for lowering the flow rate of your return versus throttling back your pump.
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Personally, I would let the pumps run, but I'd add a filter sock on your overflow pipe so that all that junk doesn't settle in the sump. If you leave the circulation pumps off, won't you disturb the sand when they do turn on? I think it'd be better to let the silt settle on its own and just collect and remove what ends up going through the overflow.
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Email sent.
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I have a Deltec PF509 Ca Rx. It's definitely one of the more expensive items on my equipment list. I like it a lot and it works well. My only gripe is that it isn't a dual chamber Ca Rx. The dual chamber design allows the CO2 you pump into the media to have even more time to be used up. The dual chamber design limits the effect of the unused CO2 on the pH of your aquarium.
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I have a small 50w shatter-proof, water-proof heater that probably won't do much, but I doubt it'll need to do much in my 90g.
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I'm glad you're not seriously hurt, but I think you should definitely consider installing a GFCI. They're simple to install (just make sure you kill the power before you install !) They don't cost more than about $10-20, but they'll keep you from getting shocked! Also, as a bonus, a GFCI also provides protection for any outlets "downstream." -- My stupidest aquarium moment was when I had my first SW aquarium... 12 years ago. I had a non submersible water heater that fell into the tank. It killed my fish... after it overheated my tank ~100 degrees. Daniel
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The color is somewhat accurate, except under actinics the mouth "pops" orange. Just to clarify my previous description, the color underlying the polyps is a pink/purple, the polyps are an orange/yellow. The outside of the mouth is orange and the inside of the mouth is yellow. There are some scattered green hues. It's definitely *not* a $100 ric, so please PM suitable trades.
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Hey, so what your new plans for the circulation and skimmer since you're selling the old stuff?
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While you're at it, make sure it's a good quality glass thermometer. My digital ones have always been off without calibration.
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Crap, I forgot that I had posted this. It's still available. I'll take a picture and post it tonight. Sorry Nick, I should start subscribing to my own threads so that I don't miss out on responses... lol.
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I have a ricordea the size of a half dollar that split about a week ago. The mother was sold to me as a purple ricordea yuma. I'll post a picture late tonight (it's in my grow-out tank and the lights only come on at midnight =/). Looking to trade for SPS. Not looking for anything special, but I would prefer stags, milles, or digis. Thanks, Daniel
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Here's an example of an open-rockwork tank: Reefbum's Tank
