Daniel

While you're at it, make sure it's a good quality glass thermometer. My digital ones have always been off without calibration.

Crap, I forgot that I had posted this. It's still available. I'll take a picture and post it tonight. Sorry Nick, I should start subscribing to my own threads so that I don't miss out on responses... lol.

I have a ricordea the size of a half dollar that split about a week ago. The mother was sold to me as a purple ricordea yuma. I'll post a picture late tonight (it's in my grow-out tank and the lights only come on at midnight =/). Looking to trade for SPS. Not looking for anything special, but I would prefer stags, milles, or digis. Thanks, Daniel

Here's an example of an open-rockwork tank: Reefbum's Tank

Wouldn't an angel be a bad idea in a tank with SPS? I have read that polyp extension is almost guaranteed to be reduced when an angel is present. Also, personally, I also love the look of less LR. It's becoming overdone at this point, but islands are your friends. One of the things I would have changed with my rockscape is exactly that. A large (no more than 50-70% of the tank height) and small island (40% or less of the tank height) would provide plenty of swimming room, growing room, and also minimize the LR obstruction of water flow. Of course, the drawback with the island approach is that you won't be able to place corals on the backwall and lose the aesthetic qualities of that arrangement.

Ooops, you already ordered, right?

How big is the "worm"? Colors?

The problem with not using ANY live rock is you lose all the diversity that you could have. Using bacteria-containing products like Stability/Microbacter7/Polyp Labs/etc all add beneficial bacteria to accomplish various tasks, but they all certainly lack the diversity of plain ole' live rock. Sure, you risk adding some aiptasia or majanoes, but I've never been overrun by either of those. I may have lots of aiptasia that I cannot see, but if I can't see it, I don't care. Same with the pest worms, if I can't see their damage, I don't care. Besides, if anyone is keeping corals, I'd be more concerned about red bugs, AEFW, pest nudibranches, etc. All the dead rock in the world won't help you out there. Pest hitchhikers can come just as easily from your corals as from live rock. If there's a way to capture the same level of bio diversity (beneficial bacteria, critters, etc) from using dead rock, I'm game.

Yes.

You'll get a ton of different responses to this question, but I used to run my tank between 79-81 when I had MHs. Now that I have T5s, I've been running my temps between 77.5-79.5. Growth has been a little better since I've been running the lower temps. Nothing drastic, but still somewhat noticeable. In all likelihood, this is more likely due to my incorrect use of MHs before and with my correct use of T5s now.

That's a massive heatsink. What does it weigh?

Without knowing your parameters, any number of things could be off... namely NH3 and NO3-. Also, inverts are adversely susceptible to pH swings, copper (and its ions), and other treatments designed to kill parasites. If you haven't been doing water changes, you should do one. If a snail looks to be dying, it may be better to pull it out so that it doesn't further foul the water.

Another bulb to consider is the Radium. I always hear great things about them. I forget what your ballasts are, but if they are the magnetic variety, you'll get great color + PAR from Radiums.

I think rejection is maintained above 98%, assuming your prefilters do their job and don't allow chlorine into the membrane. Also, there's the issue of depleting your prefilters and membranes more quickly if you run a higher pressure.

You can always drill the sides for the overflow, assuming they are not tempered. You'll need a diamond drill bit, a lubricant, and patience. Here's the calfo overflow:

Thanks, this is cool.

Looks a lot like this to me: Vivid's Rainbow Delight

I've been using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt for over a year.

Mikedelgado has one, but I'll let him vote...

I'm still interested in a picture of the scolly, if possible.

Mitch, I wanted a bottle of ReVive. If I can't find it at RCA, I'll join.

You should look into the 6025 mods. They're very easy and dramatically improve performance.

Mitch, I don't think I can do this with my controller and maybe you can't do it with yours either, but it would be nice to have the skimmer turn on a few minutes after your power comes back on after a power failure. Yesterday morning, my power went out, but when the power came back on, my skimmer cup overflowed. During a power outage, the sump fills with water from the siphon break and when the power comes back on, the return pump returns the water level in the sump to its normal height. However, since the flow-through rate in my sump is somewhat low (and I believe you were also planning to keep the flow-through rate low), the higher water level meant my skimmer's water level was higher as well, thus I had the overflow. Perhaps someone else has a suggestion on how to prevent this without a time delay on the skimmer's startup?