esacjack

Put a small bead at the beginning and middle of the threads. This helps get silicone spread out further into the threading, without making a mess. Too much, and it'll end up in places you dont want it

love my 25. It's a bit overkill for a 9 inch deep tank..But love it anyway

what about feeding? are they photosynth or non photosynth? also they arent keen on ammonia spikes..

ok easy peasy.. Youll want to get a 12v momentary switch, single pole, single throw (SPST), Normally Closed (NC). Take the switch, and splice the negative lead from your 12v adapter that goes to the stunner, into the bottom of the switch. Take another length of cable and run it from the other connection on the switch, and then off to the stunner strip. Normally closed indicates the circuit is completed when the button is up, and not down. Then just mount the switch on your cabinet, so that the door pushes the button when closed.

I drew up a fast drawing, here ya go..

pham im almost ready to come pay you another visit sir!

what kind of light is under your cabinet? is it an LED? CFL? etc?

you dont need the apex for that. Just wire up a 12volt light/power source, with the grounding wire going to the lead terminal on a momentary switch. You want a switch that is off when pressed. I used a momentary switch from a refrigerator. You'll have to tinker around with the mounting, but in my case, the all pine stand has a perfect strip for mounting. You could also use magnetic switches/relays, as used on windows/doors for security.

I would also start running carbon and skimming wet. Does the water look a little murky/cloudy?

do you have any peppermint shrimp in the tank? I had some pepps go rogue and eat some of mine.

Oh...and this is the tank at 100%..

Sorry about the terrible pictures. I was messing with the camera settings, and definitely made the situation worse.

So I'm almost done with the tank. I still need to plumb in the ATO and clean up some wiring. Aside from that, the tank is pretty much finished. Took a blurry shot of the tank this morning. Painted the aluminum tank mount black, and created some inserts to make the fixtures look black. I really like it. It's very stealthy. Also installed the RK and setup the timers. Today I bought some quieter fans. Sadly, they only had them in the clear acrylic look. The current fans can be dialed back quite a bit under heavy load. I figured I'd cut back to a 27cfm fan with 17dba. Should be a little easier on the ears. Next upgrade I think I'm going to work with some thermal controllers for speed control. I already have a lot of the sensors and relays lying around, may as well use them.

In other news... We have diatoms! Which means the sand will look like a snot rag by Christmas dinner. Splendid!

Reefin Santa!

http://www.kvue.com/news/slideshows/Scuba-Santa-236757961.html?gallery=y&c=y&ref=%2F

Woke up in the middle of the night to the smell of ozone. I knew instantly what was happening. Float was stuck :/

Even though I had a loop in the cabling, the water ran down the edge of the stand and found an imperfection to follow. I had it mounted upside down under the stand cabinet shelf. I thought, surely water couldnt get here.... Nope...I was wrong. Note to self, new float switch, new reefkeeper pc4, new gfci.

FYI, you cant purchase smartnet on a previously owned device. Unless you pay the 1200 dollar relicensing fee. The 2960 is a stout/robust unit though, and you shouldn't have any issues with it. I highly recommend this device go to someone who understands how to configure a switch, and understands Cisco IOS, and vlan'ing.

i would probably have an easier time getting out that way later in the evening or earlier in the day.. I can try and sneak out of work early on Wed/Thur.

Would a zapper do the trick? One of those things they use to kill the bad anenomes.

I did beam one with an actinic LED earlier, and it didnt seem to like it at all. I may try a laser pointer or the aiptasia zapper.

mebendazole can't be used on softies either to my knowledge. :/ Also just noticed theres a small bit of them on my skimmer inlet. I've also read increased flow helps. So my plan of action is to;

Pluck the ones off the zoas and skimmer.

Perform two or three 10'ers.

Crank up the flow

Crank up the skimmer.

Toss in some pepps to keep the issue at bay.. Per my research, its a crap shoot as to whether they'll eat them or not.

The goal is to strip the nutrients from the water column and make it real inhospitable. Any other predators or treatments anyone has tried that doesnt impact soft corals?

You may consider using UV sterilization. If you have a large interconnected system, you may wish to be proactive to prevent spreading.

Patrick

Thats a good idea.

mebendazole can't be used on softies either to my knowledge. :/ Also just noticed theres a small bit of them on my skimmer inlet. I've also read increased flow helps. So my plan of action is to;

Pluck the ones off the zoas and skimmer.

Perform two or three 10'ers.

Crank up the flow

Crank up the skimmer.

Toss in some pepps to keep the issue at bay.. Per my research, its a crap shoot as to whether they'll eat them or not.

The goal is to strip the nutrients from the water column and make it real inhospitable. Any other predators or treatments anyone has tried that doesnt impact soft corals?

to my knowledge you cant use panacur on soft corals.

My rock nems close up if the additive gets on or near them. Try adding it slowly to the sump, instead of one big dose.

So over the last few days I noticed my frag tank had some zoa's closed. Usually I dont panic, as they grow pretty fast in there, and sometimes they close before they grow. However, this time i noticed hydroid stalks coming up from around the irritated zoas. I'd initially thought it was a bacterial infection, and had dipped in lugols and furan2. Ive already lost about 2 frags because of it. It seemed to start with one frag, then poof! overnight it spread to about 12 different frags. Ive heard pepp's do a fair job of clean up combined with wet skimming. Does anyone else have any ideas ?

Well she's been up and running for 48 hours. So far no leaks! Timers have been set on the Typhon. The sunrise/sunset ramp is pretty awesome. Super smooth, and not noticeable. Timer specifics later.. for now.. pics!

About an hour after adding water and starting pumps/skimmer.

I opted to swap out the mag18 for an eheim pump. The tank is extremely quiet. The sound of the fans on the lights is basically all you hear. There's a pleasant trickling water sound as well, but no gurgling or slushing noises. The sump is very quiet, and the addition of the sound dampening material helped incredibly!

This is 48 hours later at 50%

This is 48 hours later, at the current settings. (W12 - RB20 - V15 - RGUV12)

returned to sender.

yeah most likely. Right now I have it running a burn in cycle. Im ramping it up and down every 6 hours to see what breaks first (if anything) over the next 24 hours. My wife said when she arrived at the house, she could see the crisp blue light from the street. She knew what it was from instantly.

They're alive! And bright as hell!

This is at 25%

This is at 100%

Only thing left to do is program the timers! Then its time to mount it to stand or wall (haven't decided yet). After which, it'll be time to get my rock stacked and epoxied the way I want it, then its time to get her wet!

The live rock for the tank has been curing under 2x39w T5's and 3600GPH for the last 15 months. Needless to say, it has pretty decent coraline coverage.