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gibs

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Posts posted by gibs

    getting out of hobby sale

    in Livestock

    Posted

    LOL everyone pming about hardware I will get back to you. This was done fast yesterday and not very well thought out and I will be revising post with proper prices and pics. Again lol sorry I put it up then rushed off to work, then had to work most of today LOL

    getting out of hobby sale

    in Livestock

    Posted

    I have a small tiny aqueon powerhead a tunze nano wavebox and tunze return pump and a aqualifter for the ATO. Want to make sure I get all my livestock sold then I will break it all down and list it out :) Hopefully this weekend or first of next week lol

    Fuzzy dwarf lionfish for sale

    in Livestock

    Posted

    Hey guys selling my lion fish. Asking $50.00

    Text 512 630 1244 and I will send you a few pics or post them tomorrow.

    I can meet almost anywhere in Austin during the day. After 4 I am north of georgetown but willing to work with you.

    Thanks

    • Like 1

    SOLD

    in Livestock

    Posted

    Derrick I forgot about the bright green Paula nepthea medium if no one else has picked it save it for me. I will pick it up tomorrow. Or just text me if you need to and I can pick it up tonight when I get back in town.

    Hello from Manor Texas

    in Welcome

    Posted

    Welcome to the club!

    Nice I actually live in Shadow Glen. 200G is crazy. I thought about going for a 6 foot long 100G but the thought of the extra maintance made me think twice. I really liked the ability to make water changes with a bucket

    LOL I feel you on that I just started up a 85g and my previous tank being a 16g nano... My water changes went from like 2 minutes to half a hour LOL. Still not bad though. Good luck with your build, whatever it ends up being!

    dual auto shut off valve use

    in Equipment Discussions

    Posted

    Maybe I explained that wrong I am sure I did. It's not that it won't stop and this is just from my experience. When my float valve shuts off my RO/DI unit for about 5 minutes or so a ton more water gets flushed out of the waste until the pressure equalizes or relaxes or whatever it's called. I can't explain it exactly I am not 100% sure what exactly it does or how. However I do know that your ice maker has a pressure equalizer (its called something else but that's how it was explained to me), that when the water shuts off it slowly closes the valve so that the pressure isn't built up all at once. I know this because I have had one of those plastic lines break on my fridge and I replaced it and a few weeks later it happened again. After talking to a friend who works on appliance he told me what the problem was and had me replace the piece that attaches to the ice maker to fix it. Now again I have worked as a plumber in my younger years and I know a little and I am not saying I know 100% that this won't work for him. I do know of several people hooking up floats with out the autoshutoff, and which I know for a fact drains more water out the waste for a few minutes once the clean side is shut off, and they had massive leaks because the pressure built up suddenly. Again maybe I am thinking of the whole thing wrong and will be proven wrong (which would be fine cause I may set up something similar :) ) but I don't think it will work, and for me personally those membranes aren't cheap and I wouldn't take a chance rupturing one. Anyway good luck and I hope it works out for you :)

    dual auto shut off valve use

    in Equipment Discussions

    Posted

    Would having an inline check valve on the waste side prevent backpressure on the membrane?

    Yes, my back up plan is to have a 2nd barrel to collect excess waste water, but i'm trying not to go there as i'm already using up precious garage real estate with the current 3 barrels planned (salt, RODI, waste).

    You would have to have some way to stop the water pressure before the membrane, which is what your current kit that you have does by letting excess pressure escape through the waste line. Using the kit you have without ever turning off the water source will always allow some water to flow out the waste. If you stop the waste side some will always come out of the clean side...and may mean getting waste water contaminated with your RO water or using up your DI resin a ton. Unless you have a way to shut the water off at the source with a float valve I don't see any way to shut off both sides of your waste and clean water without possibly causing some damage to your RO unit or causing a leak (the lines we use for our RO/DI units aren't really designed to hold full water pressure for any length of time. This is why you have to have the autoshutoff kit that you ordered to shut water off at the clean side with a float valve by releasing some extra pressure to the waste side.). I like the comments above just run a line outside for excess waste water. Or even just run a line to your water heater drain pan, or washer drain.

    dual auto shut off valve use

    in Equipment Discussions

    Posted

    I think your problem would be that you can't safely shutoff the water from the waste side without causing a backpressure on the membrane. Thus you shutoff waste side the clean side is still going to run with waste water. I can see the concept in my head but I am having a problem putting it to words. But no I don't believe you can shut it off from the waste side using the kit you linked. Now there is a possibility of using a electronic float that would shut off the water with a valve motor from the source but that may be to much hassle or expense for you to worry with. Honestly I think your best bet is get another trash can and rig up a overflow from your first waste can and run it to that and use your existing shutoff on the clean side.

    A noobs DIY LED lighting guide

    in Lighting (MH, T5, PC, LED)

    Posted

    Naw probably should have added it from the beginning. Here is my invoice from rapid led. Everything else I pretty much had. I estimate another 50-100$ at most if you need to buy a solder gun and solder, molex connectors, heatshrink....actually probably close to 40$ but I am probably forgetting some stuff. Also in retrospect I probably would have not bought my wire from here and cut up a bunch of these black power adapters I got laying around. Cat5 is just a little to small (24 gauge if I remember right) but it could probably work as a cheap wire. Don't add a tester to your order cause they send one with every Led order to test (I think you have to order more than 5 for that but not sure just know I got 2 and in the packing list it had instructions that all leds needed to be tested before soldering, cause they won't take them back if it has been). If you want to add fans that is a additional cost but usually everybody has a old pc lying around to rob a few out of......can't think of anything else big I had to buy.

    6" x 20" Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink

    (Choose Option: Add Splash Guard +$3) 1 $33.00 USD $33.00 USD

    AA Battery LED Tester 1 $2.00 USD $2.00 USD

    Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive 1 $7.00 USD $7.00 USD

    Bulk Wire (Black) 10 $0.25 USD $2.50 USD

    Bulk Wire (Blue) 10 $0.25 USD $2.50 USD

    Bulk Wire (Red 10 $0.25 USD $2.50 USD

    Bulk Wire (White) 10 $0.25 USD $2.50 USD

    CREE XP-G 5W Warm White LED 15 $5.00 USD $75.00 USD

    CREE XT-E Royal Blue LED RB-XTE-CREE 31 $3.40 USD $105.40 USD

    Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver 3 $34.00 USD $102.00 USD

    Subtotal: $334.40 USD

    Shipping: $7.00 USD

    Grand Total: $341.40 USD

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