victoly
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Everything posted by victoly
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You may need to adjust the outlet youre using for your pump. Low power devices should be on outlets 4 and 8, or they may fail in an on state.
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Hanna Phosphate Checker + extra box of reagent - $40 (over $60 if you got it all new on amazon)
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and french spelunker mustaches
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Looks really good! Radiums 4 life!
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$150 Chiller is used but in good working condition. reburn $70 Pump has never been wet. Bpb
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Luck, my friend.
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If youre coming in 71, I'm that far south (think aquadome), just further west out in oak hill.
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Just a note Bpb, make sure that you prerinse that bottle a few times with tank water and fill it allllll the way to the top with no headspace (emptiness) so that your results are more accurate. Depending on how long its left out, what the temperature is, how much headspace is left, etc you can get some undesirable parameter variability. I'm further south, but I could help test if ty is out of pocket.
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So you went from 8.4 to 7.6 in the span of a day? perhaps in concert with zero readable pO4 could be the problem.
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High ambient CO2 indoors. check out this thread. http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/29195-ph-and-ambient-outdoor-temperature/?hl=%2Bambient+%2Bco2
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Definitely get that mg way up, especially to fight bryopsis. If its not alk or temp or salinity, its gotta be nutrients, chemical warfare, or disease. Maybe a good time to add some carbon to remove the chemical warfare option, not much you can do about disease, and nutrients you can mitigate by reduction in BPs and temporary cessation of GFO.
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How much are you using ?
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Get that magnesium up higher, might help stem the tide a bit. The 0.00 phosphate is problematic as well. I dont know that I would take the BPs offline totally, maybe just turn down the tumble? Also probably not a bad idea to retest today to see if maybe any of your tests where out of whack.
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Robb, just about everywhere in austin north of parmer and east of 35 has clay soil.
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Six line would be a great choice.
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Many people keep a sixline and a yellow tang as utility fish.
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I can make em now without. Pm me and we can talk details.
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It probably makes more sense to slowly bring the old tank params more in line with what your new tank (by way of new salt) params will be. Of course this may all be moot once you get down to 35 ppt via dilution, just retest and take it from there.
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You need to figure out what the deal is with your new salt. Mix up more batches or something, because if it's what you're going to be using, are you going to do this rigamarole every time? My advice would be to check the calibration of your refractometer before you start trying to dilute your freshly made saltwater. Its possible that your refrac is off and maybe the true salinity is like 1.028 or 1.029 which would explain the higher alk.
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I wonder if its something with the UPS then? If your outlets are wired like this GFCI ==> UPS ==> EB8, it's possible that something is screwy with the UPS causing the GFCI to trip. There is a setting on killawatts that shows the max current, and if your UPS was causing a big inrush of current it could trip the GFCI. Looking for all options here that do not involve moving everything out of your sump
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a big spike in amperage which would cause the GFCI to trip
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30 minutes a week sounds like a reasonable ramp up to me
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Yeah, the cons of starting your lights too long are much greater than the benefits of ramping up quickly. I ramped mine up over a period of months to the 9 hours its at currently.
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I guess the only thing you could do would be to unplug each device and run it If you check your amperage charts, do you notice anything funny leading up to the time when the GFCI started tripping?
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Any chance you have par measurements ?
