prof

Crazing is generally caused by a temperature difference. Flame polishing cold acrylic could cause a large enough temperature differential to cause crazing. It can also occur if you use alcohol or ammonia to clean acrylic. Applying weld-on after flame polishing will do the same thing. As the alcohol in the solvent or cleaner evaporates it cools the acrylic to fast. I have flame polish many tanks without any problems. I have also used it to dress up older sumps and tanks that have seen better days.

If you attempt to silicone it back in place you have to make sure to clean ALL of the old silicone from the brace and from the tank where it connects. Mineral spirits works well for this but I don't think it would be a good idea to get any in your tank Silicone is a great product that does its job very well. It creates a strong waterproof bond and has a surface that keeps other things from sticking to it. This is the fault of fixing tanks. Don't put silicone on silicone, it won't last. I don't know how long epoxy will last when attached to silicone but it is worth a try. Chrispar's fix will work as well. You just have to have enough plastic trim to attach to and a wider piece of acrylic. Keep the clamp on! The seams will let go if you leave it off long enough.

I believe he is using the razors as 'pins' in place of acupuncture needles. It is a fine line between having to much and to little space between the sheets of acrylic when bonding. If it is to tight the WeldOn won't flow correctly and bubbles will form. If it is to loose then the WeldOn will run out. The basic idea behind this type of construction is called capillary bonding (or gluing). The surface tension of the WeldOn will pull it into the space between sheets. The solvent melts both sides of the acrylic and when the alcohol in the solvent dries the acrylic solidifies into one solid piece. Since both pieces are being melted it is actually welding, just like with metal, except chemicals do the work instead of heat.

I don't know about pro, but that is pretty close to how I do it. I like your 90 degree jigs. They make assembly much easier. Try flame polishing the edges when you get a chance. Practice on some scrap first. I use a MAPP gas torch to flame polish. It only works on the edges and will just burn a flat surface. Getting the speed right is the tricky part. You want to linger long enough for the acrylic to melt slightly and stop before it starts to burn. Just make one consistent speed pass along the edge and watch the magic! Those chamfered edges will shine like glass. Oh, never flame polish an edge before gluing. It changes the molecular structure and will cause crazing when glued.

I have done it. It works fine but you do have to moderate the temperature. Heaters are easy but a chiller in a Texas garage gets expensive. I finally got walls around my tanks and turned it in to an air conditioned space. There are some challenges but you sure can run lots of gallons! Oh, and it will quickly rust every metal item in your garage. It makes tool storage a chore.

Running the glass tops will trap more heat. Open top allows for the best evaporative cooling. When installing multiple fans in a canopy I always recommend having them all blow in or all blow out. If you have one pushing and one pulling you are essentially doing the same thing as running a single fan. Don't forget to look at your sump. Your pumps generate heat and that warm water gets pumped into the tank. Adding a fan to your sump is another way to increase evaporative cooling. You can successfully run a tank at temperatures in the 90's. Ask me how I know I prefer to be between 78 and 82 if possible and consistency of temperature is more important than the actual temperature. I would rather have a tank run at 83 degrees all of the time instead of having a tank make a 5+ degree temperature swing every day.

Thanks for the kudos. The tank is a neat setup and I know lots of work and thought has gone into this setup. I can't wait to see pics and see how it progresses over the next couple of years.

I am not an engineer, but you should have no issues with a tank unless the house has issues supporting itself. Remember, you are spreading the weight across 12 sq-ft. The tank setup is going to weigh in around 1000 lbs. That is the equivalent of four 250 lb. people standing next to each other. Houses are designed to handle that, easily. They can do that while supporting the walls, roof, ceiling, etc. So, unless there is something wrong with the house structurally, you shouldn't have to worry. ps: This same logic holds true for apartments and second floors.

Patience, and no chemicals. It will be better in the long run. Small consistent water changes also help.

Generally, $25 for the first hole and $20 for each additional. I'll do $20 a hole for ARC members if you bring me the tank.

The bulbs fit in the same socket but you have to have the correct ballast to drive the bulb.

Tangs and groupers! Fill it with tangs and groupers! Looks good!

I had red flat worms (planaria, not the evil red bugs.) I added a sixline and he wiped them out

GlassCages also uses a Dow Corning product but they buy it in bulk containers From everything I have read and all of the people and companies I have talked to, any silicone will work. You just want to make sure it is 100% silicone and follow the directions for proper cure time. Of course, this is for glass to glass adhesion.

Yes, please tell us more. I have read lots of discussions about the best silicone to use for glass. What did you use? What do you recommend?

I hope to be there

My purple tang...

Orange Spot Goby working Saw this on RC and figured I would share.

Beautiful photos of great tanks! This is sure worth a look if you like planted tanks, or just pretty things

You might want to PM caferacermike. He is selling his 125g freshwater with top of the line equipment. It is a beautiful tank that was always run as freshwater.