barderer

you can also try smaller amount of smaller food. Let him float around and find a spot it likes. Make sure to take dangerous power head out of the tank during this period.

Hydro, I would like one of these as well but can't get it until next weekend. If you can sell it to someone else before then by all means. But just keep me in mind for the next round.

if you want to invest the time to do it in a QT tank then you could try. But I agree with everyone, there is always another "deal"

I would take the hard advice and cut the coral on a healthy spot and start over before you loose the whole colony. Give yourself ample buffer of good tissue as well. So many times I thought I could "save" the colony just to watch it evaporate. Cutting a lot of frags when you first start to see it go is the best method to save it. N

well when you slack off you have to pay the price.

must be nice to know rich people dumb enough to bill them that rate for THAT work.

I have this process down to an science. For tanks 50 gal and under its a breeze. For larger tanks more money should be invested into the design to avoid having to do this. 1) Remove all infested rocks and throw them in a garbage can or bucket full of fresh salt water and let it sit in the dark for a few weeks. Change the water completely a few times to let all the phosphates leech out. The darkness will also kill off the algae. 1b) Remove existing sand bed, clean and dry and store. Run bare bottom. 2) Siphon out as much algae and grim out of the display and do a large 30% water change. 3) Let the tank sit in darkness for 3 days, covered by a towel. 4) Start a new sand bed in a separate tank and seed it. Let it grow for 2 months. 5) Run a media reactor in the main tank with phosphate absorption material of your choice during this whole process. 7) Replace existing sand bed with new seeded sand bed from step 2. 8) Reduce photo period to 8 hours. (My corals do quite well with the reduced period because there is no "slim" for them to fight) 9) Reintroduce rocks, but elevate the above the sanded with smaller rocks or a pvc framework such that flow can get under the rocks and move the whole sand bed around the tank. 10) Mad flow, madddd floooooooooooooowwwww. Repeat this process every 9 months. If you keep turning over your sand beds (use the same two beds over and over) you won't have to do the rock step again.

if the other acan is like the first one I will take it.

according to Aquatek they are still hard to feed because they are so small when they ship them to you.

+1 prof. Glass and acrylic don't bond together. And if its 1/4" it must be a turtle tank or something, because that would bust instantly with 220 gal in it.

nice.

Even tanks up to 150 gal would be fine with a simple powerhead mounted at the surface so enough oxygen gets dissolved for the creatures. A deep cycle battery designed to be charged all the way down and up mounted to a controller circuit jacked off a cheap UPS would be ideal. If you really wanted to get the most life out of your battery you could use a DC power head(Tunze) to avoid the costly conversion from DC to AC from your batt via a inverter. A large deep cycle could probably power your power head for days. During the summer this would be more than enough as heat would not really be an issue as you could avoid running your lights and heavy pumps for days and the coral will be just fine. The tank would stay plenty cool just by the top being open to the air. Now in the winter you would need to heat, so for larger tanks you might need a generator, If I ever did a 200+ gal tank I would throw in a generator to the total cost.

those are oliva snails and they are snail predatory snails. E.G. they will kill your good snails then die. The common coastal hermits are great for fish only tanks but are too aggressive for reef tanks. Nick

cool concept.

I bet most of the stuff we buy is made in China anyway. Anything that is not made with standard parts is almost certainly manufactured in China.

What worked for me. 1) Took out old filthy sand bed and ran glass bottom 2) Elevated rocks off the bottom so flow can get under them. 3) Took out most infested rocks and cured them in a separate dark QT tank. 4) Replaced sand bed with thin fresh bed cooked in separate dark tank. 5) Used phosphate absorption media and phosphate binder. 6) Water changes. 7) Added macro to the display to compete for resources. Phosphate kits are not sensitive enough to pick up the levels required by byropsis/hair to grow.

Fishtales, you have no idea what you are buying and where it came from. Collecting your own livestock is actually one of the most ethical and environmentally friendly things you can do.

I put it in my small 12g reef. There is lots of hard and soft coral in there so we shall C.

I am 99.9% they are this. http://www.seaslugforum.net/factsheet/scutus

Looking for a patch of Maiden's Hair algae or other cool macros....

That is a pretty good guess but I wouldn't bet all my chips on it being harmless. I am sure there are many species that look similar that behave in diff ways. Do you have a six line?

I have used "Blue Vet" red slime remover in the past. It worked really well but I went with 1/2 the recommended dose. It also seemed to have the long term effect of taking out some of my good filtering bacteria as well or killing off enough of something that it started to raise my N levels. It also caused irritation in SPS and total retraction of my yellow polyps for a week or so. I accelerated water changes to give the biological bed a chance to recover. And all was well.

I like the way you are defending the damsel! Stick with your boy!

he might be molting...3 days is a long time. I am going to go against the grain there. There is no harm in moving him so go for it.

sold