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Noodle

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Everything posted by Noodle

  1. Headless donkey is your guy -- he's got tons from his seahorse tank!
  2. I found this link to be very helpful when I was first looking at MH's (the halides section is halfway down the webpage). http://www.californiareefs.com/tanktechlighting.htm
  3. I love that site! Got a great deal on a Dyson vacuum last time
  4. Clownfishes don't need anemones to be happy at all. I have one (not a tomato), but he happily nestles in with my frogspawn corals. Here's some nighttime shots of him in the froggy!
  5. Once the mouth or foot starts falling apart, you can tell the anemone will be a goner. Better get it out of your tank before it causes an ammonia spike. I've found this site to be really useful... it even has pics of dying BTA's. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/thedyingrose.htm
  6. PS: From what I understand, a sump is just a place to hide all the equipment so that everything is out of the main display tank. Refugium provides a safe place for creatures to reproduce (copepods, amphipods) that would normally be preyed on. Also where nutrient export via macroalgae, sponges, filterfeeders, ect. That said, sometimes people combine the duties of a refugium and a sump into one by sectioning off different sections for it.
  7. It doesn't sound like a good mix putting an aggressive fish with a more timid mandarin goby. Even though it might be in a bigger tank, I'm sure they are bound to run into one another while they are searching for food. If it doesn't work out with keeping the both of them together, as Entropy stated, are you prepared to remove all the rockwork just to catch the spotted goby?
  8. He did a great job capturing shots of the fish and clams! Was the actinics on during the photo shoot at all?
  9. If you get a bunch of those credit card offers with the fake plastic cards, you can use them + some elbow grease to scrape off the coralline. Only drawback is that you'll have to stick your arm into the tank, as opposed to the glass scrapers that Cindy mentioned.
  10. Very nice pics! I miss that place, saw some of my old haunts How long were you visiting up there?
  11. Resting rocks on the walls of a tank could create different pressure points on the glass. What if your rock structure isn't as stable as you hoped and one of the rocks came tumbling down? Another thing to keep in mind is that with such an aquascape is that if you don't have a source of flow behind the rocks (maybe thru use of a spraybar, or hidden powerhead behind the rockwork), it could accumulate a lot of detritus behind there and become a nitrate factory. Right now, I have my rockwork as freestanding islands of varying heights. Water flows all around the structure.
  12. Does anyone swish and strain the frozen stuff in tank water before adding the mysis into the tank? I keep on hearing that it's best to do that to cut down on the amount of dissolved organics being introduced into the tank from the mysis "juices". Anyone else do that with their frozen foods?
  13. What all do you have in the 40G (livestock, #s of live rock/sand)? And was that rock cured or uncured when you added it in? My guess is it was probably a combination of factors that led up to nitrates skyrocketing.
  14. I haven't heard any bad stories of mixing it and using it immediately. Just make sure that all salt is dissolved before using. I'd probably start prepping another mix for the next day's water change too.
  15. Maybe the nitrates are spiked due to the first anemone dying, and you said you thought your BTA looked unwell too. Could it be that it is in the process of dying and it is decaying in the water and fouling it up? I agree with Headless, do emergency water changes of something like 25%-30% and continue doing it on subsequent days until the nitrates are back to less elevated levels. Best of luck.
  16. You don't have to feed the pods anything. They'll scavenge what they can from the rocks or water column. It's not definite if they stay in the mini-fuge... you see a lot more of them in the fuge since they're free from predation there and can multiply freely there. If they are washed out from the mini-fuge, they'll set up shop somewhere in your rockwork.
  17. August is fine w/ me - hopefully more people will jump in to this order.
  18. Gross! I'd personally return the product, but also call/write to the company packaging the silversides about your unpleasant cockroach discoveries.
  19. It all depends on if Starfire wants the blue zoa frag
  20. Thanks! Are you free any time during this weekend?
  21. I'd like to join in for a group order if you do one. Thinking of getting some ricordeas. I've got a 3 polyp frag of those sealife blue zoas if you're interested... before they blow away under one of my rocks!
  22. Anyone using TM Pro? Just looking for a 1/4 cup or snack baggy of Tropic Marin PRO. Just wanted to do a home-brewed comparison of pH, calc, alk, and magnesium between the pro and the regular version of TM. I'll even trade ya the same amount in regular TM.
  23. Manual removal during water changes would also work. Get a huge turkey baster and start squirting at the rocks as you are using a hose to vacuum the water out. As for the detritus on the sand, vacuum pretty close to sand level - det. tends to be a lot lighter than the sand grains. As for your tank vac problem, you can rubberband a long dowle rod to the rubber hosing. You don't even need to get your hands wet or worry that your arm is going to knock over rockwork.
  24. I was somewhat disappointed - they had way too many talking humans in the movie and not enough robots!
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