Michael Rodriguez

wow, 330 gallon tank for a 75 gallon! At a store I used to work at, we had one of those. We used a koralia 4 (1200 GPH) to mix the water. Worked perfectly.

The O-rings tend to fall out of those things often. You can probably get an O-ring from a local hardware store. I always keep a couple extra in the garage just in case I loose one.

My support experience with them was with me ending up selling my pump for parts... Ecotecs are a really cool idea, but there are just too many parts on them to consider them reliable. I would rather just have a Tunze. Oh wait, I do!!

Nice computer, I mean tank!!

Why are you selling it for 1/5 the price?

Unfortunately I don't have the tools to do acrylics. I wish I did though!

If you have a broken tank that you are looking to get rid of, I'll come pick it up!! I am going to cut the glass into baffles for a 75 gallon sump that I am putting together. I will even document the results here for everyone to read My Email is [email protected] Thanks, Mike

If you buy the Harbor Freight one, make sure the casters are replaceable. The bearings in them will be screaming for mercy after that saltwater gets on them!

curing the rock in RODI won't work. The bacteria you need is saltwater based, not freshwater. I'd kill the rock by leaving it out in the sun for a couple of weeks, knock off the big dead stuff, then put in your tank aquascaped the way you want, add saltwater, add bacteria in a bottle and let the cycle roll. It should only take a week with the bac in a bottle products. Starting all over i mean in terms of the tank. Dead sand, dead rock. Ah, no new tank. I moved everything over to the 125G a couple weeks ago. SO I am dealing with adding rock to an existing tank. I have 100lbs in there now, thought to add 25-40 lbs of the rocked cleaned to the tank. Sounds like everyone pretty much sticks to only adding live rock to an existing tank, not adding dead rock. The thing is, you could clean it, but you won't know how much is left on the rocks in the "impossible to get to" places. That stuff is going to endup causing a nutrient cycle. You could always set the rock to start curing for a week and see if it ends up boosting the Ammonia or Phosphates in the container it is curing in. The the amounts are low enough that you can live with them then you should be fine. Just be vary careful with that. -The nutrients are going to be more concentrated in a small container so take that into consideration. A 60 gallon container would show an an increase of nutrients that would be 2 times as much as a 120 gallon tank.

What generally happens is the anemone will end up locking up the pump which means a majority of it is still intact when it inside the pump. The best thing you can do is turn the light off, lower the water flow to the point of which something like an anemone cannot float around the tank into another powerhead, and then set the anemone still stuck inside the pump onto the bottom of the tank. (EDIT:: with the pump off of coarse) Most of the time they will work themselves out. I think the reason the Green BTA anemones made it but the Condy didn't is because Condy anemones to my knowledge aren't fraggable or able to be raised in captivity.

Last I heard, the GE silicone that doesn't have the mold inhibitor ingredients in them are labeled to the effect of not being aquarium safe for a couple of reasons. -They sell silicone products to AGA Perfecto and other aquarium brands and therefore cannot compete with them -Some silicone types are adhesive type, and some are sealant type silicone. I believe GE I and II products are the sealant type silicone. This shouldn't be a problem for you though seeing as how acrylic doesn't really adhere to silicone well anyways. The silicone ends up becoming a pocket for the acrylic to be permanently fixed in place. Although this is not because of adhesion.

In reference to your question about whether the flow would increase: The flow would increase in the sense that you would be passing more water by volume/time through a smaller chamber of water. This is a good equation for micro-bubbles. What size return pump are you going to be running? This is a very valid point. You will want to look into the water level requirements that your skimmer will need in order to perform the best.

Chlorine bleach is an okay idea if you are going to add the rock to an absolutely sterile environment. You can always neutralize the the effects that the chlorine based bleach would have on the tank with chemicals or air drying. I would take an advantage of the die off to grow bacteria that will end up benefiting your tank

Curing Live Rock Procedures: You will need the following supplies: -Something to safely house the live rock. -I usually us a a Brute can. However, things like a Rubbermaid container will work. -Enough newly made saltwater to submerge the live rock in the container. -A soft scrub brush and an old tooth brush, to remove debris from surface of the rock. -Submersible pump, or pumps, to provide consistent water movement within all parts of the container. -Aquarium heater capable of keeping the water at 74°F -80°F degrees during the curing process 1. Fill the container with the water you made. 2. Take the brush and scrub all of the decaying material off of the live rock. 3. Submerge the rock into the container allowing a flow pattern to hit all areas of as much rock as possible. 4. prevent light from entering the live rock container to fight unwanted algae and bacterias from growing. 5. Perform 50% water changes twice a week while trying to remove as much of the decayed material as possible. If necessary re-scrub the live rock. 7. Test for ammonia after a two-week period. If the levels are zero, then it is alright to add the live rock to your aquarium. It might also be a good idea to dose Brightwell's Microbacter7 or the equivalant during the curing process. Happy Trails

Polar Bear's setup looks great. You might want to get your hands on some Weldon 4 or a simular acrylic welding adhesive. A lot of people decide to go with silicone and glass. The only problem with that is it can be very unreliable.

Great! Now you can keep a harlequin shrimp These guys are like cockroaches... There's always a crack somewhere they can slip into your tank through...

They use it because it is very stable, usually won't warp or expand/contract to much, and it's cheap. Personally, I hate the stuff for any application involving water. Plywood is much better but the veneers on low quality boards will end up parting from the base also. I thought it was 12"-18" from the bulb to the water line.?.?

Thanks for all the responses guys. I used for a Aquarium business that had three locations in Florida. They definitely get a lot more as far as livestock than here. But that is to be expected. However, from the two shops that I have seen here, AquaTek, and Riverside, they seem to try to hit a lot of the basic type aquariums (guppies and gravel) all the way up to the more elaborate systems. I saw some good brand name dry-goods in there that I would never see in the shops that I worked at like Giesseman, and Precision Marine. The only brand that we carried outside of Coralife, Red Sea, Current and other norm type aquarium goods was Octopus. So I am excited to get going here. I have a bunch of tanks that I am planning to use to grow corals and breed fish. Mike

I just moved from Florida and wanted to introduce myself to the area!