Michael Rodriguez

SOLD

Yeah, but this is one of those nifty cone skimmers! I've heard good things about these skimmers. I was considering it when I was looking into setting up a large frag system.

Pending Sale

I don't think you will have trouble, it is an awesome tank! I would buy it back if I knew I would have the space for it.

Hey! That looks like a great tank!!

Price Reduced... $225 FOR EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

UPDATE: I am including my old RO unit, replacement filters, more heaters, clampers (Don't know the real name), and fish food! (Probably worth around $200 in saving for you) Even if you don't use the fish tanks for a while, the tanks are packed with goodies!! C'mon, this is an insult to Austin's economy!

I will trade this setup for some of the items below -A good working laptop valued at around $300 or above (if you have one that values for less, you can include cash) -Any items that I could use on a sailboat like fish finder, GPS Epirb, live vests (I will include cash if necessary) -Solar Panels and/or Wind Generator that would work for a sailboat (I will include cash if necessary) -Small flat panel TV that is around 28" or less. -VHF Radio -12 volt compressor unit to turn an ice box into a refrigerator (Kinda far fetched i know) Thank you for looking!!

Price reduced $295!!! Someone come and get it!!!!!

PRICE REDUCED $375.00 C'mon guys!! Someone's gatta want it

Yep it is!! For anyone who would have trouble picking this up, I can offer my truck and my help for the cost of the gas. I want this gone.

This is a great cheap setup that will make anyone looking to grow out corals very happy. It could even be a good money maker on the side!! For anyone who would have trouble getting this to their home/buseness ect. I can offer my truck and my help at the cost of Gas! !!PRICED REDUCED!! (May 09 '11) $295!!!!! is for everything listed below: -Tanks and stand What I paid for them $450 (new the tanks alone would probably cost someone ~$700) -Bulk Reef Supply Two part ~$40 -Missing one or two of the jugs -65% of the chemicals remaining -Sand paid ~$90 and used 1/4 of it $67.50 -Filter socks $12 -250 gallons worth of unused Coralife salt $76.45 -Julian Sprung's Sea Veggies both purple and green ~$7.50 -various plumbing that would be worth $100 new -Brute can for mixing saltwater w/ rodi float valve ~$45 -3 large Heaters for winter time ~$80 -Mag Float ~$30 ----------------------------------------- All of this stuff tallies up to around $900... As you can see, I am taking a complete loss on this. I would love to keep it, but I am going to live aboard a sailboat in the Florida Keys and will not have any kind of space for something like this... I'm not in a real hurry to sell it however seeing as I have a month till I move. http://www.flickr.co...57626183534937/

Yep, here she is:

I wouldn't put the varnish in or over the Kilz. The curing agents in the varnish would probably tear up the paint. Also, the varnish probably won't adhere too the paint very well. I do like Kilz though. It seems like it breaths easier than other paints so it doesn't warp or change the wood over time. I've used that Krylon Indoor outdoor stuff (great for painting the outside of your tank ) and it didn't treat the wood very well. Any salt creep or moisture would seem to cause problems. I would definitely go with what everyone else is saying by using a marine based sealer. My only concern would be you having to reseal it every few years. I remember when I lived in Florida on a canal, my neighbor had an old wooden boat. He would spend a lot of time re-varnishing his boat just about every year. It was a beautiful boat though. Good luck!!

It looks good. There are a few things I would look at though. 1. The silicone's adhesion strength. I would use thick glass if you are going to use the GE W&D silicone . That will give it more surface area to adhere to. GE didn't make their silicone to hold aquariums together. All Glass Aquarium silicone will work better but is expensive. I think DAP 100% silicone is supposed to have a stronger adhesion strength: http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B0002YOVFO I used to order these tubes at True Value hardware when I lived in Florida. I don't know if they have a location here though. 2. He pressed the two pieces of glass together. This isn't a good idea and it leads to cracking an chips due to the panes not having enough silicone between them. When you have two panes of glass being put together, you want to have around a 1/16 inch gap for the silicone. This allows flexing of the panes of glass. 3. He rested the side panes of glass on top of the bottom pane of glass. When you fill the tank, you will end up causing a shearing stress to the bead of silicone between these two panes. I've never been comfortable with this. I like to rest my side panes on the same surface as the bottom pane will set inside the sides panes. This will cause a stress by tension. I also think it looks better personally. 4. after he had filled the tank completely, I don't think I saw a piece of styrofoam or any other type of material to insulate the pressure that could be caused by either the table or the tank. Make sure you have a good flat surface when building the tank. by that I mean take a good straight edge and check the surface that you plan to build the tank on for flatness.

wow, 330 gallon tank for a 75 gallon! At a store I used to work at, we had one of those. We used a koralia 4 (1200 GPH) to mix the water. Worked perfectly.

My support experience with them was with me ending up selling my pump for parts... Ecotecs are a really cool idea, but there are just too many parts on them to consider them reliable. I would rather just have a Tunze. Oh wait, I do!!

Why are you selling it for 1/5 the price?

Unfortunately I don't have the tools to do acrylics. I wish I did though!

If you have a broken tank that you are looking to get rid of, I'll come pick it up!! I am going to cut the glass into baffles for a 75 gallon sump that I am putting together. I will even document the results here for everyone to read My Email is [email protected] Thanks, Mike

curing the rock in RODI won't work. The bacteria you need is saltwater based, not freshwater. I'd kill the rock by leaving it out in the sun for a couple of weeks, knock off the big dead stuff, then put in your tank aquascaped the way you want, add saltwater, add bacteria in a bottle and let the cycle roll. It should only take a week with the bac in a bottle products. Starting all over i mean in terms of the tank. Dead sand, dead rock. Ah, no new tank. I moved everything over to the 125G a couple weeks ago. SO I am dealing with adding rock to an existing tank. I have 100lbs in there now, thought to add 25-40 lbs of the rocked cleaned to the tank. Sounds like everyone pretty much sticks to only adding live rock to an existing tank, not adding dead rock. The thing is, you could clean it, but you won't know how much is left on the rocks in the "impossible to get to" places. That stuff is going to endup causing a nutrient cycle. You could always set the rock to start curing for a week and see if it ends up boosting the Ammonia or Phosphates in the container it is curing in. The the amounts are low enough that you can live with them then you should be fine. Just be vary careful with that. -The nutrients are going to be more concentrated in a small container so take that into consideration. A 60 gallon container would show an an increase of nutrients that would be 2 times as much as a 120 gallon tank.

Last I heard, the GE silicone that doesn't have the mold inhibitor ingredients in them are labeled to the effect of not being aquarium safe for a couple of reasons. -They sell silicone products to AGA Perfecto and other aquarium brands and therefore cannot compete with them -Some silicone types are adhesive type, and some are sealant type silicone. I believe GE I and II products are the sealant type silicone. This shouldn't be a problem for you though seeing as how acrylic doesn't really adhere to silicone well anyways. The silicone ends up becoming a pocket for the acrylic to be permanently fixed in place. Although this is not because of adhesion.

In reference to your question about whether the flow would increase: The flow would increase in the sense that you would be passing more water by volume/time through a smaller chamber of water. This is a good equation for micro-bubbles. What size return pump are you going to be running? This is a very valid point. You will want to look into the water level requirements that your skimmer will need in order to perform the best.

Chlorine bleach is an okay idea if you are going to add the rock to an absolutely sterile environment. You can always neutralize the the effects that the chlorine based bleach would have on the tank with chemicals or air drying. I would take an advantage of the die off to grow bacteria that will end up benefiting your tank

Curing Live Rock Procedures: You will need the following supplies: -Something to safely house the live rock. -I usually us a a Brute can. However, things like a Rubbermaid container will work. -Enough newly made saltwater to submerge the live rock in the container. -A soft scrub brush and an old tooth brush, to remove debris from surface of the rock. -Submersible pump, or pumps, to provide consistent water movement within all parts of the container. -Aquarium heater capable of keeping the water at 74°F -80°F degrees during the curing process 1. Fill the container with the water you made. 2. Take the brush and scrub all of the decaying material off of the live rock. 3. Submerge the rock into the container allowing a flow pattern to hit all areas of as much rock as possible. 4. prevent light from entering the live rock container to fight unwanted algae and bacterias from growing. 5. Perform 50% water changes twice a week while trying to remove as much of the decayed material as possible. If necessary re-scrub the live rock. 7. Test for ammonia after a two-week period. If the levels are zero, then it is alright to add the live rock to your aquarium. It might also be a good idea to dose Brightwell's Microbacter7 or the equivalant during the curing process. Happy Trails