Entropy

LOL! Yeah I guess I was assuming that as a given. It is surprisingly hard to take a good picture of a metal halide, but this shows it running and it is too bright to look at.

I just dumped it onto RC for $75 shipped. Bigger audience there.

03 model IceCap 250w MH Ballast $55

Comes with spider reflector (decent shape) with attached mogul, and a 2000 year old 20k bulb. Price is for the ballast only, the rest I am throwing in for free but no hard feelings if you don't like the reflector or bulb.

If you get desperate I will give you $10 for it. I don't need it right now, but I will someday.

What kind of lighting are you keeping it under?

Looks like this except not quite as shiny. It is your standard reflector, no thrills.

03 model IceCap 250w MH Ballast, spider reflector (decent shape) with attached mogul, and a 2000 year old 20k bulb. I figured I would check here before throwing it on RC. $75

Sold....

There is one ahead of you Ted. If they back out I will send you an Email.

Instant Ocean Sea Salt Mix - 160gal Bucket unopened. Just got it today in the mail.

Second in line. My birthday is coming up.

You can use egg crate to close up any big holes or even a completely open back. the fish can still get out, but they have to be really accurate to do it.

In the seven years I have been keeping salt water fish I have had two jump out of the tank (dozens jumping into the overflow). I lost a fire goby from my old tank (in wall, completely open back) when my wife slammed the door. I guess the shock wave or noise scare it enough to make it jump. Sad thing is I saw it happen and it probably wouldn't have been a big deal, but the poor little guy actually jumped from the tank right into a five gallon bucket of top of water and by the time I ran around to the back I guess the shock of fresh water plus probably 30 degrees of temp difference did it in. The other was my longnose hawkfish. He jumped out the back of my last tank (open back), but luckily for it I was doing maintenance and actually heard it flopping around being the tank. I don't know how long it was out, but I threw it back in and he is still swimming two years later.

Now I have a full canopy that is completly closed. The only way out is through two small 1.5 inch holes in the back or through the 120mm fan in the top. I figure if they want out that bad, then more power to them.

Hmmm. I have to respectfully disagree (based on speculation, not fact) with the statement that the waste water has the impurities of 6 gallons (using your reference). Since the water path through the RO/DI system goes tap > pre-filter > carbon block > RO membrane > DI with the waste coming directly after the first 2 filters.

Jim

Good point. I was thinking of the input at the membrane an honestly didn't factor in the prefilters. Mine is three stage (no DI) so I should have thought of that. Anyway my point was the waste water is going to be no worse than the tap water for a pond application. Anything the prefilters do not catch and is rejected by the membrane whould be in the tap water to begin with and the levels would be no more then 15-20% extra per gallon. I suppose over time that could add up, but it would not be much different than the effects of evaporation (losing water, leaving behind solids).

For what it is worth my waste water goes into the lawn. I haven't had to top off my pond since I built it four months ago. Mother nature has been taking care of it.

Do you normally top off your ponds with water straight from the tap? If so the RO/DI waste water is not going to make a difference IMO. How much water are you talking about by the way? Ro/DI waste water is really not much worse that the input water in the grand scheme of things. Most RO/DO units have a 5 to 1 rejection rate (or similar) so 5 gallons of RO/DI waste water has the same impurities as 6 gallons of tap water.

Then again my 700 gallon pond is green like Kermit the frog right now, so I may not be the best source for advice.

I am in for the 19th. I am not looking to order much though (probably $10).

Honestly I don't know what kind of 20k bulb I have right now. I picked it up for free at the end of it's useful life cycle. Six months later I think it is time for a new one. I am not growing anything so it is not a huge deal, but I would like to start some softies. What I have now is very white with a lot of blue, closer to a 14k bulb I think. Similar to the Iwasaki 15k (175w). I run it unsupplemented so color is more important than par.

What does the color look like? I might be interested, but I am running a 20k lamp currently.

Looks like I have a taker (in under 3 minutes). Don't you people have anything better to do than troll the fish forums? I will let you know if they back out.

I have both of these guys in my sump (been there a while). The cardinal got the crap beat out of it by my red stripe angel, and the spotted goby got hammered by my yellow watchman (30x30 is not big enough for us all to get along?). Anyway they both seemed to have recovered their fins since the assault, and are living pretty happily in my sump, but it seems silly to have an extra bioload from fish I don't get to see.

Free to a good home.

Keep in mind these are $5 fish, so driving from Nebraska to get them doesn't make much sense.

Does it have a stand?

I don't suppose you are letting the sand go? I have been toying with putting sand in my tank.

That room is going to look so much better with a nice dinner table...

Remember that a 90g is a relatively small tank when you start talking 400w bulbs. A dual 400w setup will cook the average 90g setup. I ran dual 175's and 2x110w VHo actinics over my original tank (90g) and it grew everything just fine (SPS, LPS, softies). I think 250w probably has the most options bulb wise, but the Iwasaki 15k 175w bulb beats many of the 250's and compares really well to the rest. I think with 400's you will need a chiller (or a massive sump).

Thanks for the frags.

1pm was over an hour ago...

It is still Friday Chris...

Is the Magnum complete?