lemonyx

Don't think it's cyno - tanks been treated with ChemiClean

Starting to get this red stuff growing all over the tank, it's short like stubble beard and hard to brush off (I used a wire brush) Any ideas

Well the sump is finally finished. Had a nice day with little rain, got the sump routed and edges chamferd. Added 2 media reactors to the return area along with a heater rack that pvc is where the heaters will sit - those pvc elbows are where the drain is

You can use several different types of material, plywood sides and top and bottom or 2x4"s for framing this is a little long but the corners or legs of the stand can be just a simple "L" shape on all 4 corners with the top and bottom part's flat. Sheeting is fine using magnets and some thin ply.

Need a pix of the baker's rack you are wanting to use. IMO most of the baker racks will not hold much weight, let alone 2x 55gal tanks @ 465gals ea with water.

This is my adapter forgot what size I used but just take the bottom to HD or Lowes and match it up. You'll need the black tube as well to bring the size down for the 1/4" ice maker hose

I was gonna to suggest large rubbermaid containers or even a couple of stock tanks might workout. It'll be like moving a tank but staying in the same house good luck

Now since most of the sump is done, I need to drill it for a drain. This is the best way to drill acrylic, with a piece of backing to prevent chip, tear out, I use a piece of scrap 2x4 and a clamp, a good friend helps here if you don't have any clamps. The wood is centered where the hole will be, just peeking out below the paper mask. From the bottom up The tool of choice, it's a 1/2" variable speed drill by Dewalt. I'm using Uniseals so I have the correct size hole saw installed First hole 2nd hole Both holes done All done. Now to rout the tank and it'll be finished

Her's our current tank It's an 80 gal 36"Lx24"Wx22"H with an external overflow using the Bean Animal , the sump is abut a 49gal total with about 30gal working, skimmer with waste collector, calcium reactor Kalk reactor tied to the ATO, hood is a hanging pendant type hood with DIY LumenArcs running 14k Phoenix 250w HQI's

Here's a FTS not the best There is a foam rock wall on the back and three islands also use the Beckett Pond and Stone Foam to 'glue" them together. This is why I'm starting a 200gal - need more room for clams and other corals and fish.

Usually a couple of days - about 10-24 hrs to split, couple of days to heal up and should be eating again in about 4 - 5 days,"your nem may vary". During this time, I keep the current on and run charcoal to help clean the water.

The Family new addition just last night Not sure if this is the clone or parent, it's it the same place before it split and this one is just around the corner the left side of the split. both are healing up and soon will be eating again that one island is getting kind of crowded, I'll have to make and extension for that island The count is: 4 variegated RBTA's 2 RBTA's I Neon GBTA 2 GBTA w/Pink/Purple Tips

Or you could use one of those freshwater breeder cubicles - forgot what they're called but it's just some netting over a plastic cage.

To bad, I could build you a nice Acrylic one with an external overflow and use the bean animal silent overflow. good luck

The filter/silencer is this thing I made for my current sump and skimmer. Those Siccie (sp) pump draw a lot of air and are noisy. just a 1 1/2" PVC with 2 end caps, one of them drilled and the other end fitted with a JG fitting for easy removal

OK, the top, I didn't take any pix's of cutting it out and routing - got lazy I had to really think ahead and decided where i was gonna to have everything sit in the sump. The probe holders, dosing line holders and the ATO float switch are on But getting ahead of my self: that's the top, sitting on the bottom getting shimmed up and ready for "gluing". Remember the needles are there to keep a constant gap all around the parameter of the tank, the razors (or shims) are to close up that gap so the needle slides in and out with a little friction. Presto, the top of the sump with a 2 3/8" Euro brace These two holes are for the skimmer pump silencer and filter (there's floss and charcoal in the tube) or can be a convenient place for 2 cup holders and are toward the front of the sump These 2 smaller holes are for wire management, the probes, heater cords and if enough room the dosing lines (might have to make another one for those) and these are toward the back of the sump It's a PITA to drain water from the sump and clean up the junk on the bottom, learned this from my current sump so i will be adding this I'm sure not too many reefers have a drain on their sumps, mine will It'll just span the skimmer area and return area as the far right side is the fuge and don't want to bother that area. Almost finished, just have to route the edges, chamfer the edges and I'm done. Corners on acrylic can be "sharp" very sharp I've cut myself many a time on a corner so now everything I do the corners are rounded over and edges chamfered with the router.

You can do something like this

The first end piece is on, the baffles now the other end piece The needles are only used for the "outside" or parameter of the tank or sump in this case. Now what I have is a "U"(end pieces)with finger in between (baffles). Now is the time to ready the other "side" of the tank/sump. The paper is removed and it's slid under, then the finished part is turned over and aligned onto the bottom piece. (I hope that is clear, as mud probably) The first assembly with the end's and baffles are just turned upside down on to the next piece, lined up and "glued" on. now the needles and shims are used to line up the "joints for gluing. Now the "bottom of the sump. So the finished "carcass" has a front, back and the baffles, just needs the bottom and then the top. Bottom first I use a needle every 6" and a shim if needed - all around the parameter of the sump. This take a little time and can mean bubbles or a nice clear seam. When you are ready, apply the glue on one side, go back and pull the needles and push the shim in a little, you can see the solvent being squeezed out so you have to stop or you'll get a "dry joint" Repeat for the next 3 sides, add a little weight on top and let it dry The top is next - has to be routed and have not decided on the shape of the opening as yet.

Thanks

No, the shims are used in conjunction with the needles, what you're trying to do is to make a space the same all around for capillary migration or the solvent wicking as you feed it keeping it in front of you as you move the applicator bottle. Then after you finish applying the solvent, then you hurry back and pull all the needles then push the shims a little tighter so the bottom and the side meet up. If you used too much solvent, you'll get a "blob" line that looks like bubbles but is on the inside and not on the seam. hth

I never "flame polish" tanks or sumps, to get that polished look you gotta use elbow grease and very fine wet and dry, up to 2500 grit. Cause crazing and it you use a cleaner with ammonia it'll crack

The needles are there to provide a little space, if it's too loose (think feeler gauge) then the shims are to make that space tighter. I was using the shims on the end piece to start.

Sure, but I'm currently in the NW but I do come down to Burton for Thanksgiving for several weeks. Might be too long for you to wait.

More sump Spacing out the baffles and making sure they are perpendicular to the bottom. I'm using a 2" pvc pipe which comes out to 2 3/8" spacing between baffles. All 4 baffles in place, decided not to split the fuge area and will it will be just the baffles. Before I go any further, I just remembered that I need probe holders so went looking thru my scrap pile and this is what the out come is. Hummm black or white thumb screws? I used the black ones. I like to use my "head" to work smarter and not harder (lazyness) but I use the electric drill/driver to tap all of my holes and have had no problems. There will be some who have not done this or think that they "know it all" and will chime in and say it'll break, won't work ect ect ... If you use the right drill size for the tap, it'll work. Ok enough of that. So I made two of them, the shorter one is the prob holder for my AquaController, just checking Temp and PH for now. The longer one is for the ATO and will need to make another probe holder as the blank end will hold the float switch for the ATO and instead of a Calcium Reactor I will be using the "Balling" method kind of, and will be dosing Cal, Alk, MAG and whatever else the tank needs so will need another "long" probe holder for three set's of lines. The first half of the sump is done, now just need to turn it over and start the other side. (I forgot to mention that the tops of the baffles the corners have been routed or chamfered to take the sharp corner off. If this is not done, it won't feel good. Plus it dresses it up showing the time put into the project) So the order in which to assemble a tank, sump or whatever is about the same. Start on one side, stand all your vertical pieces and "glue" (actually it a solvent so it softens the plastic then bonds) of if you have any dividers then that would go first, (horizontal piece that spans between the verticals) then starting on one "end" start gluing them down, making sure you have a right angle jig to keep it nice and straight and some type of spacer for your baffle spacing. (is that clear - I think I just babbled) more to come

Start the build: Starting on one end of the sump I use these 45's to hold the acrylic at a 90' and have about 6 of these made up and sometimes have to use all six of them. (forgot to take pix of that :roll_eyes:) The pins method of assembling acrylic. These are acupuncture needles that I use and are about the right size. I use to use those tie wraps from the produce section but they were too thick (big around) The magic juice - combination of Weldon #4 and *%$@#&*^. Shims, these single edged razors work the best for slipping under the acrylic, thin enough but you can stack them when you need them. You need some type of shim to keep the acrylic edges together for no bubble seams (as well as the routed edge) more to come