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How to setup a Calcium Reactor


HarleyGuy

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15 hours ago, Gig 'em @ NDstructible said:

Personally I've never run into an issue with the Milwaukee regulators. If anything that's the one piece of equipment I haven't had troubles with to this point! Granted I run my calcium reactor a little differently than most, mainly due to my distrust of pH probes and the continuing functionality of equipment. For example I don't run my CaRX based on pH levels of the chamber like many do. The reason for this is that pH probes drift. If you're working in a lab, you calibrate your probe daily. Who among us wants to calibrate our probe weekly or monthly?! I'm FAAARRRR too lazy for that. Instead I just leave the probe in to monitor if I still have flow, if my CO2 tank has run out, or if something weird is happening with my reactor.

 

Instead of using pH as my control method, I simply use a timer on my Apex for the CO2 solenoid. Every half hour it clicks on and delivers CO2 to my reactor for 18 minutes and then shuts off for another 30 minutes. Then I simply control the effluent of the reactor or increase the amount of time the solenoid is on to adjust my alk levels. It has worked for me so far. 

 

Jolt added a link to a fuel filter, this is a great idea when it comes to controlling slow effluent flow rates. When detritus and tiny bits of reactor media start getting into your needle valve, it clogs it and slows it down forcing you to purge the valve periodically and reset the flow rate. I use one of these aqualifter pre filters to keep junk out of my valve. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-lifter-pre-filter.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyaT6ir3O3AIVi_hkCh1s6ADCEAQYASABEgK2oPD_BwE

I would also recommend adding a second CaRX chamber to follow the main. Not only does it help bring up the pH, but it also helps create enough back pressure on the source flow into the reactor that it helps control your effluent flow and keep it stable. That's just been my experience with it so far.

Great ideas! I’m going to get a prefilter and use a secondary chamber. What do you think of the Bubble Magus C100-2? I’m still leaning towards a Carbondoser regulator though. 😊

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i was looking for a pict of my second reactor, stumbled upon this....

Calcium_Reactor_Diagram.jpg

notice where the probe is.  some put it there, some put it in teh chamber... just depends on how it reacts/functions.  When i first started w/ my CARX, i had it on the effluent.  i moved it to the chamber for better accuracy.

second chamber would be at the end of the green line, and a new color (darker green?) would exit chamber 2 and end up in the sump/effluent dish.   hope this clears things up!  (im still looking for the pict of mine tho... i might just take one if i cant find it.

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i gave up... heres mine. can be as simple as this (they are pretty common on "secondary" markets:

20180803_022425 (Medium).jpg

and for size comparison:

20180803_022432 (Medium).jpg

FYI, these probes slide perfectly into 3/8 pushfit fittings :)

 

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Wow, very cool. Thanks Isaac! I really like that PM secondary. I looked online and couldn’t find that model anymore. Yes, I agree about the ph probe in the primary chamber, I’m going to do that after I add the probe adapter to the chamber.

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So put the needle valve on the water coming in from the tank? I have a ball valve on my manifold, is that not enough control? Also leave the effluent output with just a pipe/tube, no way to control the flow?

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On 8/5/2018 at 5:44 PM, Isaac said:

flip the secondary in/out. put the filter & needle valve on the manifold end.  you'll clog up much faster w/ the current order.

 

9 minutes ago, HarleyGuy said:

So put the needle valve on the water coming in from the tank? I have a ball valve on my manifold, is that not enough control? Also leave the effluent output with just a pipe/tube, no way to control the flow?

I think you are confused like me , I had to read this again.

He wants you to move the output from the main reactor to down at the bottom of the secondary and make the top the output to the tank. Upflow, so the sediment stays in the secondary reactor.

The ball valve is plenty to control the water input to the reactor.

The needle valve is fine. You need something there to control the drip. If its running thru the pre filter i dont see it clogging.

I have a plastic block that has a hole drilled thru it for the tube to go thru.  A thumb screw screws into it. Pinches the tube. Tighten or loosen the screw to control the drip. Low tech

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Ok, thanks guys! 

That makes sense on the secondary output (move the output to the top of the reactor). I’ll do that. 

I’ll use the ball valve on my manifold to control the input into the CaRX as I had planned. 

I have the needle valve in hand and the prefilter. I’ve heard a pinch valve is more reliable because of less hw in the water. I think I’ll stick with the needle valve and prefilter on the output for the moment and look at adding a pinch valve if I start having issues with the needle valve.

 

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I dont have one on my GEO. Its the old version of the 818.  I do get some bubble accumulation at the top over time. Gas should rise to the top of the second chamber. As long as you dont put the end of the dripper hose in the water any gas should come out into the air. You could always hold the end of the dripper up higher than the chamber. Shake the chamber to purge any excess gas. Maybe once a year. i duno

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i have a ball valve coming of my manifold, then the needle valve for fine control.  ball valves over time become very inconsistent and hard to get in the exact spot when you wanna dial something in.

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1 hour ago, Dogfish said:

I dont have one on my GEO. Its the old version of the 818.  I do get some bubble accumulation at the top over time. Gas should rise to the top of the second chamber. As long as you dont put the end of the dripper hose in the water any gas should come out into the air. You could always hold the end of the dripper up higher than the chamber. Shake the chamber to purge any excess gas. Maybe once a year. i duno

Makes sense, thanks

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46 minutes ago, Isaac said:

i have a ball valve coming of my manifold, then the needle valve for fine control.  ball valves over time become very inconsistent and hard to get in the exact spot when you wanna dial something in.

Sounds like I need a needle valve on both ends? I have high end ball valves but they do get calcified over time. I also like to set and forget the manifold for the most part so I’ll pick up another needle valve. 

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50 minutes ago, Isaac said:

i have a ball valve coming of my manifold, then the needle valve for fine control.  ball valves over time become very inconsistent and hard to get in the exact spot when you wanna dial something in.

Agreed, I’ll put one on both ends. Thanks

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1 hour ago, Isaac said:

i have a ball valve coming of my manifold, then the needle valve for fine control.  ball valves over time become very inconsistent and hard to get in the exact spot when you wanna dial something in.

I never worried about the ball valve coming off my manifold. I guess my pressure is not that much to have to throttle it back. I close it once a week when i do water changes. Other than that it stays wide open.

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you dont wanna "pressurize" the chamber too much in my opinion.  you definately dont want so much pressure where you are fighting the CO2's input from ever reaching the system. so if the valves are in the input, everything in the system gets pushed out as you put it in.   if you put the valves at the end, you create some backpressure.  minimal backpressure is good, and probably helps the valves from not clogging, but it will be a little harder to fine tune. both methods are pretty equal and it just depends on how it works out for you.  so.. thats the main take-away.. you cant reach water psi above the co2's input psi or you are fighting the co2 regulator.

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