+olaggie01 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Use silicone for the bondng glass to glass. I got my glass from a glass shop in Georgetown, across 35 by the post office on 2243. Russell Glass Company. Good looking tank and dogs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Hopefully this is the last post where all I show is plans! Things are starting to move, just a little slower than I would like. Work has started on modifying the canopy and hopefully some plumbing will be completed this weekend. Take a look at my designs below and let me know if you have any criticisms or critiques. Sump: Standard 75 gallon tank, I will be getting glass cut to make the baffles/filter sock stand. Basic layout. Water level in skimmer/return section is 11 inches. My current skimmer will need a stand so it sits at a 7 inch water level. Filter sock area. The idea is water will come in from the drains in the back section, once that is full it will flow through the socks and out the bottom. If socks are clogged it will just drain over to the right. I wouldn't be able to cut the big holes in glass for the filter socks, so I will cut acrylic to hold the socks which will rest on glass shelves that are siliconed in. Plumbing overview: The manifold area needs to come in a bit so all the connections will be over the sump. I am also thinking of adding a tee to the flex PVC portion for a future calcium reactor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Looks good! You might want to consider also using a union where the manifold hooks into the return line? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Looks good. I second jolt. Use Union check valves as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+BobcatReefer Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 I'm so glad I don't have those sketchup skills. I can't imagine the time I would waste designing everything in the world. What a burden you bear! (sarcasm thick enough to cover my extreme jealousy/admiration?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Looks good! You might want to consider also using a union where the manifold hooks into the return line? Looks good. I second jolt. Use Union check valves as well. Good ideas! A union and ball valve will be added before the manifold. The check valves I have are the union type so I got that covered. I'm so glad I don't have those sketchup skills. I can't imagine the time I would waste designing everything in the world. What a burden you bear! (sarcasm thick enough to cover my extreme jealousy/admiration?) Haha, its a pretty easy program to learn and there is already a ton of aquarium/reef stuff in the database. I did spend a good chunk of time on it, but I have to visualize stuff before I can begin working on it or it ends up being a mess. I use it for all my woodworking projects as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Got the exhaust fans installed in the canopy. I don't think I'll have to worry about the lights overheating! The only items left to do on the canopy are to install the middle rail that holds up the ATI lights and then stain/seal the new wood. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 You may also want a gate/ball valve on the right/ or both returns. The water will take the path of least resistance, so you may have uneven flow through each return. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Wow time sure does fly by, I've been so busy I have been neglecting the tank build. Anyway, with a renewed focus things are going to start moving again, and hopefully moving along fast! I have mostly completed the canopy. The exhaust fans have been installed, and the lights are fitting snugly. I had to beef up the canopy quite a bit to where it could handle the weight of the lights, but it looks like it is handling them perfectly. I still need to add a shim to one side of the canopy so it rests on the tank evenly, and I need to add something so the canopy cannot slide backwards off the tank when I'm putting the lights in. I also have completed installing the glass into the sump. The silicone job I did was very messy, but I think it will perform just fine. Some of the silicone is still drying so the jigs are still in place. Still TONS of stuff to do but I'm getting back on track. Here's part of the schedule I've been working off of for the past week. I'm not certain I can keep up the pace, but right now we're on track to going wet on 3/5/16 to start cycling the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I was instructed by ATI that when you have 2 fixtures, the cords have to be in the center because of how the fixtures exaust their heat. Make sure you vent that Canopy on the sides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I was instructed by ATI that when you have 2 fixtures, the cords have to be in the center because of how the fixtures exaust their heat. Make sure you vent that Canopy on the sides Yeah, the cords are both facing the center. The sides have an about an inch and a half of room, which I hope is enough to allow the hot air to rise and be exhausted by fans I installed. If the lights end up being too hot then I will have to install side fans, but I really don't want to for aesthetic reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 He's alive! Tank looks like it's coming together well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Got quite a bit of work done this weekend. Filter sock holder is complete. LED strip lights were installed under the tank and the sump was moved into place. About this time I was wondering what I had gotten myself into How far I got before I had to call it quits. The Bean Animal plumbing is mostly complete except I need to find a 1/4" NPTF tap for the durso drain's air hole. Going to check Lowes today. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Looking for some advice on the manifold I built. The more I look at it the more unsure I get about it. It currently has 4 outlets, one 1" outlet and three 1/2" outlets. The manifold is supplied by the Vectra L1 return pump which is 3100 gph not accounting for head pressure or friction from the return piping. The returns are about 5'6" above the pump. If possible I want to have the following items running from it, let me know if you think this is feasible or not before I glue it in! Biopellet reactor ~150 gph - needs 1/2" barb fitting Carbon/GFO dual reactor ~150 gph - needs 1/2" push connect fitting (future upgrade) UV sterilizer ~500 gph - looking at different models they all have 1-1/2" to 2" inlets which seems huge to me considering they only need about 500gph. Do these require their own pumps or would adapting a 1" pipe up to the size required be okay ? (future upgrade) Calcium Reactor - I can't find the typical flow needed for these but if I remember right it is a low flow. Will a 1/2" valve be enough to feed one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yes everything looks fine. I would choose to run the uv on its own pump personally. Typical CARX flow is 15-45 ml/minute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yes everything looks fine. I would choose to run the uv on its own pump personally. Typical CARX flow is 15-45 ml/minuteAgreed on the UV, run it on its own pump and according to Timfish, he's had better success actually running the feed pump in the DT pulling water in the lower portions of the water column. My CaRX runs at 10 ml/min currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks for the advice Reburn and Ty. I think I'm going to change the manifold to four 1/2 inch outlets and run the UV off its own pump when/if I get one. I was reading more on the CaRX and it looks like as long as you restrict the effluent outflow to the desired rate there isn't any drawback on running it off of the manifold. The outlets will be: 1. Biopellets 2. Carbon/GFO 3. CaRX 4. empty for now. Plumbing is almost complete. Need change the manifold and to get some bracing to help it stay up, then its on to glue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 I was wondering about the quantity of live rock in larger tanks. Does "rule" of 1 pound of live rock per gallon still hold true? How many pounds of live rock are you guys with larger tanks running with? I currently have about 100 pounds of dry rock (a mix of Marco rock, Fiji and man-made) and will be transferring another 50 pounds from my 75 gallon tank for a total of 150 pounds. Aquascape wise, this is all that I want to have in my display, but I do have room to add several of the large MarinePure blocks to my sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I'm running about 150-175 lbs in my 215 gal DT, another 50 lbs in my sump, and two marine pure blocks in the sump as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I've got a 175g and did 150lbs plus one of the marine pure block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Sounds like it would be a good idea to get some marine pure blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 I played around with the aquascape some this weekend. Ended up liking this design for the left side of the tank. Its not very stable so I will be using the cement from marcos rock to ensure it will stay together. I also glued most of the plumbing this weekend. Only thing left is to glue the pipes to the bulkheads. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I like the look of the left side! Great start! The cave will be a bit of detritus city in there but the fish will appreciate it. I wish I had built more caves into my structures. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BornToHula Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Thanks! I agree,detritus is a bit of an issue with caves. The cave on my 75g collects detritus as well, but the fish love swimming in it so much I think its worth it. I do need to make sure the sand vacuum will reach in there to keep it somewhat tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Thanks! I agree,detritus is a bit of an issue with caves. The cave on my 75g collects detritus as well, but the fish love swimming in it so much I think its worth it. I do need to make sure the sand vacuum will reach in there to keep it somewhat tidy. I think it's totally worth it for the fish and for me at least, detritus isn't really the enemy in any tank that has a good oversized skimmer and methods in place to remove nitrates and phosphates. I haven't removed detritus manually (besides what gets sucked up in my skimmer) for 3 years in my old 125-gallon. There was literally 1/2" to 1" of detritus in my sump! In my new 215-gallon, the same thing, about 3 years now, no detritus removal ever manually, and things aren't blowing up for me. Just adding my experience with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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