Lens Question

[Aquadoc]

I use the Canon EF ƒ/3.5L 180mm Macro to get 1:1 pictures of objects that are in the back of the tank since the 180mm Macro lens has such a LARGE working distance @ 1:1. If the objects that you are trying to shoot @ 1:1 are close enough the I would use the Canon EF ƒ/2.8L IS MACRO. It all depends on the subject, distance, etc. I also like wide-angle macro pics as well (eg: Canon EF 35mm ƒ/1.4, with a 24mm extension tube.). They all give different results.

[Aquadoc]

For ALL photos taken of aquarium life through glass you want to get as close as possibe to the glass when shooting and ALWAYS use manual focus. You'll be suprised that the camera will actually focus on the glass.

This is a statement that should be looked at since you DO NOT have to ALWAYS manual focus. Yes if you are far enough from the tank then the sensor WILL pick up the glass. But if you are close enough to tthe tank the sensor shouldn't have a problem.

Now if you want to do all of this through the camera or through software you be prepared to lose a lot of quality in your photo. You can never only use software for a perfect image, but will always need it for one.

Why would you lose A LOT of quality by using the camera software or any other software. Correct me if I am wrong, but the purpose of a RAW file is just that. The image is in it's RAW format, and it is the photographers responsibility to adjust the photo accordingly. Just like a Film shooting photographer would do if he needed to make adjustments to the film that he is processing.

Regardless of the method you use you will want to adjust the white balance of your camera according to your manual to help correct the image, OR you can do what I do and shoot in RAW and adjust the white balance through software.

You always have to remember that detal not captured in the initial image weather it be underexposed or overexposed will never show up, and no software will ever be able to bring it back.

This statement is like a double standard. In the previous statement you stated that using software would degrade your image. But then you state here that you would use software to adjust your white balance. I have had several pictures that were way over exposed, and by using Adoe Lightroom you can bring the exposure down, and use the recovery option to bring back a good amount of detail. Works for me.

Bottom line is a lens will not make a good photograph, it will make a good photograph better. To maketake a good photograph you will need knowledge on how to do that through your camera settings (Shutter speed, Aperture, and ISO). Different lenses allow you to adjust these settings differently.

A good lens WILL make a good photograph. A good lens will correct chromatic aberations, comas, glare, and many other features, as well as higher contrasts, and better color retention. Also good lens will also give better Bokeh, or Depth of Field, and sharper pictures corner to corner, as well as channel MORE light to the sensor,due to the fact that most good/higher end lenses have a bigger aperature, than normal. Good lenses will prevent the photographer from sitting at his PC/Mac and spending more time editing his photos than what it took to shoot the photos. There is a plethora reasons why camera manufacturers make these high end lens. IF there wasn't any difference then they wouldn't make them...

Have fun and good luck and the best way to learn is to fail and to try again until you get it right.

Thank GOD for digital cameras, because this method would be super expensive to do with film..

Edited November 16, 2009 by Aquadoc

[absolut_racer]

Picked up a Nikon Micro 105mm f/2.8 VR. Still practicing, but very happy with it.