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Ocean revive settings


nvrEnuf

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I know there are a few peple here running ocean revives and I am wondering what intensity you are running?

I am currently at 45% blue and 25% white and I don't think it is high enough. However, any time I try to ramp them up even just a bit leathers and zoas seem to not like it.

Any input appreciated

Sacha, you still at 75,75?

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I run three units on my 150g and they're all set to 75% blue 50% white. It gives me a sort of 14k look. In the past I have tried to run 50/50 but I felt it was too washed out. I also tried 100% blue 75% white but the lighting was so strong that the corals were negatively affected and the algae blooms were insane.

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How much PAR do you have at those settings? My goal is to have 100 PAR on the sand bed. I've tried to borrow the PAR meter from RCA but it's always checked out. I have a sneaking suspicion that my PAR is too high and I may remove one fixture. I had been thinking of setting up a frag tank anyway and the third fixture gives me a weird shadow where the center brace is located.

Do you have any polyps stretching for the light? Do you have an anemone or an open brain coral that has inflated larger than your previous light?

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No nems. No stretching zoas.

Matter of fact something like 50% zoos growing, and the rest kind not doing much at all. Most of the ones not doing much are from the old tank with BML's.

I haven't done any par readings and probably wouldn't trust them anyway.

I have a welso at the bed doing as well if not better than ever, and a ricordia I think might be getting too mich light.

I burnt the **** out of an acro and a birds nest when I first got the lights and was testing them out...100% is WAY too much fopr anything but the deepest of tanks, both are recovering now. But, considering the temp swing and the param swing from the tank move, I have other SPS slightly bleached not due to light so it's hard to tell what cause has what effect right now.

Thus, might light delima...too little equates to not enough health, too much eaqautes to too little health.

I have a leather at 75% hieght in the tank who reacts negativly to much higher light than current settings which makes me question going higher. I'm glad you responded to the post because I am curious as to how you run such higher settings than my tank seems to be able to handle.

I've had the lgiths for at least 6-8 weeks and despite slow ramping that leather always gets pissed above 100% total volume between both channels. I am **** close to burning it out since I no longer like it's location anyway, but I don't want to harm LPS and SPS in the process.

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I keep my lights about 8" from the top of the water.

My tank is 31" tall and I have 3" of sand bed so my lowest coral is around 33" from the lights.

My highest coral is 8" below the surface of the water, which makes it 16" from the light. I've kept several acropora that high in the tank.

Leather - sand bed

Zoas - I have some zoas on the sand bed, but they grow as high as 17" from the light, which is about mid tank. They've been slowly creeping higher and higher so I don't think the light bothers them.

Ricordea - I've kept rics at every level of the tank. I have some blue rics on the sand and I have some higher than mid tank.

Acropora - I keep these in the top 50% of the tank as a rule because that is where the greater light and flow are. I have acros as low as 20" and as high as 8" from the light.

Stylophora / Montipora / Chalice / Favites - I grow these in the bottom half of the tank, but they have done well at all levels.The highest I've had them in 17" from the light.

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Okay, between this post and the other I am about 95% sure my water is the problem.

New filters have been ordered. I din't think 12DTS would be that big a deal, but looks like I was wrong

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My 9 TDS was a result of my DI resin being completely exhausted. So I would imagine your DI resin is probably the same.... meaning you've just been using RO water for however long you've had 12 TDS.

When my DI was exhausted, I got a huge cyano bloom and the algae in my tank went nuts!

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I've been trying to test the PAR but haven't been able to check out the meter. Once I do then I'll let you know what the settings is producing. I'm fairly certain that I can't turn my lights up any higher than they are and have a healthy tank. I'm even thinking of turning them down some.

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Ty - well, once again thank god for the scrubber then. New filters and resin are on the way and I'll only top off until then. Everything seems to be coming back now so I'll do a carbon change this weekend and wait to see fi the new filters and some water changes so a difference.

Sascha - I don't know what a PAR meter will really result, I can't decide on the sceince about LED's and PAR. However, I can tell you I have one and only one softie above the 50% height mark...a leather of some sort. It retracts at anything much higher than I am running now (or roughly 80% total, either white or blue). I am at 69% today. I ran a strip of 20K and another of 14K BML over this coral at 100% 10 inches closer in the last tank. I am increasing feeding to make sure my zoas on the floor aren't thriving due to lack of nutrition, if not, lights may decrease again.

General- with only a small tang and two pipefish in the tank I am WAY over filtering as far as the coral are concerned, the scrubber is barely growing. Thus I am going to see what the tank/scrubber can handle while it is close to empty of fish. A simple decrease in food and cleaning of the mat will re-balance almost instantly. I've been ramping up feeding for a few day or two and everything SEEMS to be liking it so far....the ramp up is SLOW.

Why am I not posting this on my build thread?

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I run my Ocean Revives at 50/50. If I go much higher I make things grumpy... I found my coral placement is similar to Sascha's.

Ty convinced me to get a TDS meter and swap out my DI resin... Effluent is now 0 TDS, so yeah I'd jump on it if your TDS are at 12

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 4 weeks later...

I RUN 2 OVER MY 190, 60X27X27, 3 UNITS IS TOO MUCH CAUSE SOME CORALS SITTING UP HIGH MIDTANK...

I STARTED 65%B AND 40%W IN LAST AUGUST I THINK AND INCREASED TO NOW I STAY 80%B AND 75%W, I SUPPLYMENT WITH 2 T5 ACTINICS, JUST TO COVER SHADOWS AND GIVE A TANK 14-15K LOOK....

FIXTURES SIT 9 1/2" ABOVE WATER, I HAVE 1 1/2" SANDBED. BOTHS CHANNELS 100% , TO SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE

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BOTH CHANNELS AT 100%. PAR TESTED AT 13" BELOW WATER. NO T5.

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SAME SETTINGS AT SANDBED.

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Good looking tank Vu. Thanks for sharing your settings. I am going to remove my third fixture because I think it's too much light as well.

I haven't tested PAR yet. The meter is always checked out from RCA so I haven't gotten my hands on it yet.

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Still not dialed in, but a lot less thinking it's light related.

Everything is happy at a total of 65/200 = currently 45 blue and 20 white. But I also think I will be moving higher once corals at 75% high or above recover fully from thier now 4 month whiney cry babby session after the "tank move" (temp swing) (then swings as I figgured out the tank)(then new light sun burn).

I raised the height of the fixtures from 8" off surface to 16" about two weeks ago and have seen improvement in gradient of light from top to bottom. So, I have been tinkering with settings trying to get something I am happy with at the 50-75/200 range. Even at this height softies retract instantly to anything above 50 blue 50 white (or any other combination reaching 100/200).

Mid level SPS are coloring up nicely, softies have all found happy places and are great color and growth and even non well colored SPS are growing well.

I am also moving to a weekly small water change so that could and probably is having effects non related to the lights (meaning I probably have no idea what I am talking about!).

~J

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It's tough out there. The LED vendors will tell you anything and will over sell you products to compensate for their lack of knowledge. I asked about LEDs from peers that had similar lights on their tanks before I bought mine. Even then I didn't know how many fixtures to buy. I just took a guess.

I keep my zoas at the very bottom of the tank. They are about 30-33" from the light and they don't stretch or look starved.

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