AbelR1975 Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I'm looking for a small Naso Tang....preferably one that eats bubble algae Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 You may want to try a foxface if the main reason is algae control of any type. My foxfaces have always eaten bubble algae, bryopsis, and caulerpa recemosa while my tangs would never touch any of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Ditto, foxface are algae eating machines! Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 I may try it. I was just concerned about the fox face not being reef safe. I'm also a little concerned about having a poisonous fish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstarwiggle Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I have a kole tang. He is a fiesty algae eater! Love him! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+JoseZ Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Not sure if it's the same one that I saw but river city had a naso tang in their back tanks that I personally saw eating bubble algae. This was a while back so might not be the same one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 I know that i have bubble algae, but im not sure what this is. It doesnt seem to be growing much, but its sure not going away. It sure seems to like the pocillopora. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Looks like the dreaded bryopsis to me. Do the Kent Tech M treatment and manually pull and it usually takes care of it. If it's just on that rock, I'd just take it out and throw it away. Trust me, it's a much better option than fighting that stuff for months if not years! I've observed my rabbitfish mowing down that stuff only when I have weakened it with the Tech M treatment. Otherwise, nothing will touch it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Heres a closer pic. I looked up bryopsis, but it said that it was fern-like. This kind of looks slimy to me. I dont know if this pic will help. Im wondering if it might be dinoflagellates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Makena95GT Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 If its bubbly and slimyish it might just be dino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I hate to say Abel but it looks like you have both. Obviously get a 2nd opinion because I'm only running off a picture but the stuff within your pocciliopora looks like bryopsis with a slime layer of dinos on it. The zoomed up picture looks like dinos by itself to me. You can see the fernlike appendages in the stuff in the pocci and the slight blue tinge that bryopsis sometimes has. Give it a pull, and if it is solid and not slime, it probably is bryopsis. It's also hard to explain but when you pull it, you can almost feel it retracting in your fingers, like the ferns are closing or reacting to being pulled. Tech M treatment for the bryopsis and hydrogen peroxide dosing for the dinos. You can google both pretty easy and it'll give you an idea of what most do for each treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woods Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I have had Foxfaces in my reef tanks for years and never had a problem with them eating coral or getting stung by their spikes. Mine have even eaten out of my hands... I think the hype is more than it should be. They are extremely peaceful fish in my opinion and never caused any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Do you think if I took that rock and pocci to Nikkos or RCA, they could positively identify it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Well Jeeper, you were right. I have both Bryopsis and Dinos. Aint ai lucky! Lol. Yall convinced me about the Foxface, and I went and picked one up tonight. Thanks everyone for your help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I was hoping I was wrong for your sake Abel. You can get a gallon of tech m from big als for pretty cheap. The foxface won't even touch it until you weaken it with the tech m. For dinos, they are actually toxic to your livestock so removing them as quick as possible is ideal. Lights out for a bit and peroxide dosing worked well for me but it was still a long fight. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Makena95GT Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Ive also read something about no water changes because dinos love all the extra trace elements and minerals in a fresh salt mix. So that may help. Seems like lights out coupled with not doing water changes has worked for a lot of people. Because of course with algae your first reaction is to do a water change but with dinos it seems to only make it worse for some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 I've never actually heard of one first hand not being reef safe. I see the online shops saying with caution, but they're definitely not like angelfish where there's a likely chance they will eat coral at some point. Eating any specific type of algae is never guaranteed, but unless you get some 1/100 demon fish, I think you'll be happy with it. Mine keep outgrowing my tank, but I think they're a more useful and better personality fish than any tang I've seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenver Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 For the dynos is lights out for about 5 days, works very well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 I guess the Tech M treatment works well with the no water changes for the Dinos, so thats a plus in this situation. I rid my tank of majano, only to end up with bubble algae, dino, and bryopsis. lol. Cure one thing and get 3 others! I've been trying to research the H2O2 dosing. I havn't been able to find overly detailed instructions. About the most common info I get is 1ml per 10gal per day. Do I just dump that in my sump? I'm running phosban and purigen...do I need to stop? How long do I dose for? I'm wondering if the H2O2 will build up in the system and I'd rather not crash the tank from the H2O2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshhh Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Your corals won't like the H2O2 but they'll be fine and it'll oxidize in like 48 hours. But I've heard Berger success with doing H2O2 dips/baths then just dosing the tank. As far as how much to dose ive read 1ml per gallon but that's with 35% food grade H2O2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 It's been awhile since I fought dinos but I believe I used the 1ml per 10gal rule. I used a pipette and blasted areas of dino formation directly with the hydrogen peroxide until I had dispensed the allotted amount of peroxide for the day. I split my daily peroxide treatment into two, dosing half in the morning and half at night.My zoas and palys would close up immediately upon dosing but would always open up later without ill-effect.This, combined with 3 days of darkness and a reduced photic period helped me win the battle over a 2-month timeframe.I would imagine filter socks would speed up the treatment time but I didn't use any during my treatment.Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thanks I've got some syringes that I can use to do spot treatment with the H2O2. I've never blacked out a tank either. Do I need to wrap the tank with something to completely keep out the light, or just not turn the lights on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 For H2O2, if you have the ability to do it, you can drain the tank enough to expose the rock. Use a spray bottle and directly spray the algae and let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes. When you fill the tank back up, it will be diluted to the point where it's irrelevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbelR1975 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Any tips on the black out? Do I need to wrap the tank, or just turn the lights off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I think it just depends on your room. If you get a lot of ambient lighting, I'd wrap it. If it's generally a dark room, I wouldn't bother. Just leave some gaps for air to still get through. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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