UV Sterilizer

[+Grog]

So,

I know some of you run UV sterilizers on your systems and or QT. Are there any downsides to running a UV sterilizer, other than cost, bulb replacement, and space?

I'm toying with the idea of getting one as a preventative measure, at least on my QT, maybe on my display too.

Grog

[Sascha D.]

UV sterilizers kill beneficial bacteria in the water column.

I've heard that it can kill pods, but I can't confirm.

For long-term success, you only run the UV periodocally or when a problem arises. I've known people that run them once a month as a preventative measure. It helps mitigate the cost of having one.

[wizardx322]

i run mine 100% of the time don't see any down sides

now days fish come in with bacteria from whole sellers after i got a fish that had some bacteria and killed all my livestock i'll never run a tank w/out a UV.

[+KimP]

Heat can be a downside. It's the sole reason I've never hooked mine up. I have it ready to go the second I might need it though.

[+Grog]

Thanks for the input so far.

My understanding is that the majority of the de-nitrifying bacteria we like are in the sand and rock, rather than free-swimming. Are there other 'good' bacteria that I'd want to keep in place in the water column?

Is the heat comparable to the heat I'm getting from halides or worse? I'm running a chiller already for my halides.

[mFrame]

I run mine 24/7 and have seen no downside. I've got pods aplenty.

[Sascha D.]

The main draw to UV sterilizers is to reduce parasites and reduce algae in the water column. Hooking up a UV won't eliminate all of the algae in your tank nor will it eliminate parasites completely because it only affects spores and free floating microbes. For example, if a fish comes in with Ich then a UV won't cure that fish or stop the spread of that parasite. If that fish rubs against the rocks and another fish comes in contact with that rock then the Ich can spread. Another example, if you have bubble algae and one gets large, bursts and spreads spores in the tank, then most of them will land before going through the UV.

I'm neither for nor against the use of sterilizers. The bulbs are only supposed to last three months and they have deminishing returns as the bulb ages.

[+KimP]

I've read Timfish recommend running the sterilizer off of its own powerhead that's placed in the DT, right near the sandbed to catch the most ich. (I hope I repeated that correctly Tim)

As far as how much heat, I don't know. Personally I was at my limit of how much I can cool my tank without a chiller, so any added heat was a deal breaker. I'd imagine you don't have to worry about it with a chiller.

[+Grog]

I'm thinking Eheim canister from my overflow, and running carbon etc in the canister. Using the output from the canister as input for the UV sterilizer, and then return to overflow.

Looking at Coralife UV Turbo Twist 6X 18W and Eheim 2217 paired together on my DT.

[offroadodge]

All i can say is i will NEVER not run one again. When u wanna spend ur hard earned money on some really nice fish ($250-800) a piece i gives me piece of mind that they will survive and not live. You tank will be much healthier with one. I have the aquamedic 18w and honestly it doent add much if any heat because of the way the water is channelled threw it. JMO

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[offroadodge]

Well dang smart phones aren't so smart meant to say "a piece of mind that they will survive and not die."

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[Sascha D.]

All i can say is i will NEVER not run one again. When u wanna spend ur hard earned money on some really nice fish ($250-800) a piece i gives me piece of mind that they will survive and not live. You tank will be much healthier with one. I have the aquamedic 18w and honestly it doent add much if any heat because of the way the water is channelled threw it. JMO

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How much are the bulbs and how often do you change it out?

[+Grog]

Name brand 18W run ~$45. User manual for the Coralife 18W says 12 months on bulb replacement but I know some replace them sooner. Non-Coralife UV bulbs can be purchased for ~$15 from various sources.

So $15-$45 for a bulb every 6-12 months is what I'm seeing.

Edited November 29, 2013 by Grog

[Timfish]

I think a properly sized UV is the most reliable way to control ick in a display tank. I would argue it's much better to use it on a quarantine system though. Don't believe the marketing hype some manufacturers use for sizing a UV to a tank. For example I've seen manufacturers say a UV will work on 120 gal. but it's based on dealing with green water algae blooms, ick is much harder to kill and when turnover/kill rate and bulb aging is taken into account the the same UV wouldn't be effective on anything larger than a 30 or 40 gal. tank. I like to size UVs so I have 1 or 2 turnovers an hour with a 100% single pass kill rate, more is better but UV's also act as heaters and heat is usually an issue in most tanks. I've also found them to be more effective if set up to take water directly from the main tank then return it back to the main tank than if set up between a sump/refugium and the main tank. (Since the larval are hatching out in the tank with the fish it seems to do a better job of killing the larval before they find a host and I've seen multi tank systems where a sterilizer was protecting part of the system but ick was surviving in one tank). There are differences in design and quality obviously, the designs that allow for permanent installation are typically more robust than most hang on designs and tubing fittings can be used to allow relatively easy removal for servicing. As always the simpler access is the better.

Here's a system that's been running a UV continuously for over 5 years:

[+Grog]

Timfish,

You are saying to run low flow through the UV sterilizer to maximize exposure to the UV light. Target GPH of 1-2 tank volume so in my 145 tank a 200 gph flow rate would be fine, with the in-and-out lines both in the DT. Right?

If so, this totally works with my plan.

Eheim filter will give me that approximate flow rate and a more effective place for carbon.

[+Mlaw]

So what brand of UV do you prefer?