+Mitch Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I was curious if 2 auto shut off valves can be used in series for an RODI system where one is "controlled" by the RODI line (typical) and the other by the waste line. I currently have one of these: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html I would like to use two 55gal barrels to collect RODI and waste, respectively, and when either barrel is full have it shut off the system. Note my ratio of RODI to water is about 1:1. I have already inquired with BRS and was told no I could not do it, but i'm a bit skeptical on their answer. TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 It would seem to me that you should be able to do so, but we have some plumbers on here who should be able to answer more definitively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibs Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I think your problem would be that you can't safely shutoff the water from the waste side without causing a backpressure on the membrane. Thus you shutoff waste side the clean side is still going to run with waste water. I can see the concept in my head but I am having a problem putting it to words. But no I don't believe you can shut it off from the waste side using the kit you linked. Now there is a possibility of using a electronic float that would shut off the water with a valve motor from the source but that may be to much hassle or expense for you to worry with. Honestly I think your best bet is get another trash can and rig up a overflow from your first waste can and run it to that and use your existing shutoff on the clean side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 Would having an inline check valve on the waste side prevent backpressure on the membrane? Yes, my back up plan is to have a 2nd barrel to collect excess waste water, but i'm trying not to go there as i'm already using up precious garage real estate with the current 3 barrels planned (salt, RODI, waste). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Instead of a second barrel why not just setup an overflow system that dumps to your front bushes or pool. That way you save up at least 55 gallons before it wastes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Instead of a second barrel why not just setup an overflow system that dumps to your front bushes or pool. That way you save up at least 55 gallons before it wastes away. this is what i was going to suggest. Setting up a float valve on the waste outlet could potentially have some undesirable effects... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibs Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Would having an inline check valve on the waste side prevent backpressure on the membrane? Yes, my back up plan is to have a 2nd barrel to collect excess waste water, but i'm trying not to go there as i'm already using up precious garage real estate with the current 3 barrels planned (salt, RODI, waste). You would have to have some way to stop the water pressure before the membrane, which is what your current kit that you have does by letting excess pressure escape through the waste line. Using the kit you have without ever turning off the water source will always allow some water to flow out the waste. If you stop the waste side some will always come out of the clean side...and may mean getting waste water contaminated with your RO water or using up your DI resin a ton. Unless you have a way to shut the water off at the source with a float valve I don't see any way to shut off both sides of your waste and clean water without possibly causing some damage to your RO unit or causing a leak (the lines we use for our RO/DI units aren't really designed to hold full water pressure for any length of time. This is why you have to have the autoshutoff kit that you ordered to shut water off at the clean side with a float valve by releasing some extra pressure to the waste side.). I like the comments above just run a line outside for excess waste water. Or even just run a line to your water heater drain pan, or washer drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Would having an inline check valve on the waste side prevent backpressure on the membrane? Yes, my back up plan is to have a 2nd barrel to collect excess waste water, but i'm trying not to go there as i'm already using up precious garage real estate with the current 3 barrels planned (salt, RODI, waste). You would have to have some way to stop the water pressure before the membrane, which is what your current kit that you have does by letting excess pressure escape through the waste line. Using the kit you have without ever turning off the water source will always allow some water to flow out the waste. If you stop the waste side some will always come out of the clean side...and may mean getting waste water contaminated with your RO water or using up your DI resin a ton. Unless you have a way to shut the water off at the source with a float valve I don't see any way to shut off both sides of your waste and clean water without possibly causing some damage to your RO unit or causing a leak (the lines we use for our RO/DI units aren't really designed to hold full water pressure for any length of time. This is why you have to have the autoshutoff kit that you ordered to shut water off at the clean side with a float valve by releasing some extra pressure to the waste side.). I like the comments above just run a line outside for excess waste water. Or even just run a line to your water heater drain pan, or washer drain. I have this same auto shut off on my system and when it turns off because of full RODI barrel I dont have excess coming out the waste, even left it on the garage floor one night to see and in the morning it was still dry on the floor. The float alone isnt strong enough to stop the pressure and if it was then you would bleed out the waste line, with the auto off in line it uses back pressure to help shut off the system by shutting the RODI and waste lines.. My RODI system is always on at the water source and shuts off when the RODI barrel is full, the waste line sits in the washing machine drain line. It doesn't leak water or bleed off pressure at anytime I'm aware of, proved it to myself by leaving the waste line on the floor over night on accident and in the morning it was still dry. Also have an inline TDS meter and flush kit, I flush once every 2 weeks to prevent membrane build up and check my TDS every time I start a SW batch to mix, still reading 0 going into the barrel and 160 going into the RODI machine. The lines not being able to hold pressure is strange to me also, these are the same lines type/material installed on my under sink RODI house unit and it holds pressure fine at all times. Same lines on the ice machine maker.. Only time I ever had one bust from pressure was during a freeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibs Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Maybe I explained that wrong I am sure I did. It's not that it won't stop and this is just from my experience. When my float valve shuts off my RO/DI unit for about 5 minutes or so a ton more water gets flushed out of the waste until the pressure equalizes or relaxes or whatever it's called. I can't explain it exactly I am not 100% sure what exactly it does or how. However I do know that your ice maker has a pressure equalizer (its called something else but that's how it was explained to me), that when the water shuts off it slowly closes the valve so that the pressure isn't built up all at once. I know this because I have had one of those plastic lines break on my fridge and I replaced it and a few weeks later it happened again. After talking to a friend who works on appliance he told me what the problem was and had me replace the piece that attaches to the ice maker to fix it. Now again I have worked as a plumber in my younger years and I know a little and I am not saying I know 100% that this won't work for him. I do know of several people hooking up floats with out the autoshutoff, and which I know for a fact drains more water out the waste for a few minutes once the clean side is shut off, and they had massive leaks because the pressure built up suddenly. Again maybe I am thinking of the whole thing wrong and will be proven wrong (which would be fine cause I may set up something similar ) but I don't think it will work, and for me personally those membranes aren't cheap and I wouldn't take a chance rupturing one. Anyway good luck and I hope it works out for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Maybe I explained that wrong I am sure I did. It's not that it won't stop and this is just from my experience. When my float valve shuts off my RO/DI unit for about 5 minutes or so a ton more water gets flushed out of the waste until the pressure equalizes or relaxes or whatever it's called. I can't explain it exactly I am not 100% sure what exactly it does or how. However I do know that your ice maker has a pressure equalizer (its called something else but that's how it was explained to me), that when the water shuts off it slowly closes the valve so that the pressure isn't built up all at once. I know this because I have had one of those plastic lines break on my fridge and I replaced it and a few weeks later it happened again. After talking to a friend who works on appliance he told me what the problem was and had me replace the piece that attaches to the ice maker to fix it. Now again I have worked as a plumber in my younger years and I know a little and I am not saying I know 100% that this won't work for him. I do know of several people hooking up floats with out the autoshutoff, and which I know for a fact drains more water out the waste for a few minutes once the clean side is shut off, and they had massive leaks because the pressure built up suddenly. Again maybe I am thinking of the whole thing wrong and will be proven wrong (which would be fine cause I may set up something similar ) but I don't think it will work, and for me personally those membranes aren't cheap and I wouldn't take a chance rupturing one. Anyway good luck and I hope it works out for you Nope I totally get what you mean now, I get that exact same thing. This happens as the canisters all fill up with water once full it all stops I noticed. It all makes complete sense to me now LOL funny how far off you can misinterpret over the web. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Mitch Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Thx for all the discussion guys! I guess i'm not gonna risk things and just go with a single waste barrel w/ an overflow tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.