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Sea Hair?


ReefGazer

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A sea hare would be helpful. Make sure you get a large one. As the little ones tend to "disappear in the tank.

But I think the best advice I could give is; try to figure out what is causing your HA. If you don't mind could you give us some information on your tank?

Size 55 gallom

Amount of rock

Filtration

Refugium/sump - size

Type of flow - how many and what type of power heads

Inhabitants - fish/corals

Clean up crew

Water changes - how often and how much water.

Feeding habits

Finally can you post your tank parameters?

pH

Alkalinity

Phosphate

Ammonia

Nitrates

Temp

Magnesium

This information will give us a better idea of what is going on in your tank.

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I am not a big fan of the sea hare anymore...the only way I will sell one is with the recommendation of supplementing his diet with nori...they do a great job of cleaning, but once the algae is depleted, it will not be seen again. When I did stock them, I had a few in my 20g...they did very well and lasted for weeks being supplemented with nori.

@ Dave...how is the very large one you got at the meeting a couple of months back?

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I would go with urchins. I am particularly fond of the atlantic green but the royal or tuxedo are good also. The long spine work well but makes cleaning a challenge sometimes.

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A sea hare would be helpful. Make sure you get a large one. As the little ones tend to "disappear in the tank.

But I think the best advice I could give is; try to figure out what is causing your HA. If you don't mind could you give us some information on your tank?

Size 55 gallon

Amount of rock --70+

Filtration--hob skimmer rated for 100g, hob Biowheel for 60g

Refugium/sump - size-- hob ref 19"

Type of flow - how many and what type of power heads-- 1-k2,1- nano

Inhabitants - fish/corals--Mated pair false percs, Flame Angel, Sixline wrasse, Yellow watchman, small purple reef lobster, Cleaner shrimp, Harliguin shrimp and a Coral Banded shrimp.

Clean up crew- 40 or so of both crabs and turbos

Water changes - how often and how much water. -- once every 2-3 weeks. 25%. (I know not enough.)

Feeding habits-- once a day. (no food left over.)

Finally can you post your tank parameters?

pH--8.3

Alkalinity--?

Phosphate-- ??

Ammonia--0

Nitrates--0

Nitrites--0

Temp-- 78-79

Magnesium ??

This information will give us a better idea of what is going on in your tank.

Everything is filled in...

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I would go with urchins. I am particularly fond of the atlantic green but the royal or tuxedo are good also. The long spine work well but makes cleaning a challenge sometimes.

I have 2 lazy tuxedos...(forgot to list those above...)

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Thanks for taking the time to post the info.

Everything seems to be in order.

I forgot to ask "What type of lighting and how old are the bulbs?"

You might take some water to an LFS and have the phosphates tested. High phosphates can cause ha.

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I never trust someone that says their nitrates are "0", especially when battling HA. Nitrite 0, sure no problem. Remember that in a true nitrification triangle there should always be some nitrates, we just want to keep them as low as possible. By seeing some nitrates it proves that nitrites are being converted into nitrates. No 'trates, what then is processing the 'trites?

Nitrification:

The oxidation of ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate by bacteria.

Ammonia becomes nitrite, nitrite becomes nitrate, what then becomes nitrates? Nothing. They must be removed. Some people have made interesting contraptions to help rid themselves of nitrates via 500' long hoses full of sugar and some have used sulphur to help manage nitrates. If you are battling HA then I doubt seriously that you are using these items to keep your trates at 0 and or if you are using them, you are not using them properly.

My first guess is that nitrates and phosphates are high. Tank has a whole lot of "Hang on back" eqpt. Most of the "HOT/HOB" stuff does not really do well for salt tanks. Most of it actually pulls water from the middle of the tank, we want only the top 1/4" or so for good skimming. The proteins, fats, and oils that we are pulling from the water into our skimmers floats to the surface, this negates a skimmer that pulls from low in the tank. A good overflow and sump could really help out by directing the right water to a good skimmer. You do not list your manufacturer, many HOT skimmers are just poor performers.

What is the water source for the water changes? What salt is being used? The addition of ferrous oxide (phosban, phosguard, etc) coupled with quality carbon in a forced reactor could possibly help out if the HA is not out of control.

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I never trust someone that says their nitrates are "0", especially when battling HA. Nitrite 0, sure no problem.

Sorry maybe not "0". All I have is cards to compare colors to. But it's close. The Bulbs are really old. I just havent had the cash to change them.

I get my water at RCA I use Tropic Marine. Also my skimmer does pull water from the top I had to get one that did so to help get the film off the top of the water... Thanks for all the help. I think my light may be the problem. I also keep them on close to 12hrs. :bye: I will also have to pick up a few more test. thanks for the help!

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My experience old bulbs = hair algae. I can say this because I had a HA break out due to old bulbs. That and a high phosphate reading are perfect conditions for HA break out.

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Yeah it's not just the bulbs. Never convince yourself of that. The simple answer is often to simple. I keep my Halides on for 10 hours a day and have not a speck of algae in my tank. That's 500w of halide over a 75g tank, plus 2x 6w PC actinics for 12 hours as well. I now have a tang that may be grazing any that tries to grow. I wouldn't say I do anything special to prevent algae from growing so I know in my heart that it could start at any time. Your tank sounds to me like it is right at it's breaking point. Something is out of whack and could cause it to flip at any time. Your bulbs are just helping to feed the problem. A really good set up would still prevent an HA outbreak just because the bulbs are old. There has to be other factors involved. It's just like what I do for a living, fire protection. We talk of the fire triangle. You cannot have a fire without all 3 items, heat, oxygen, and fuel. If any one side is broken then it fails to burn. You can't start a fire with only 1 of the items present. That's why I'm saying that it takes more than juts old bulbs for HA to grow. There must be a food source as well. If the nutrients were low then the algae would not be present.

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Don't get a sea hare, he will end up inside out on one of your powerheads, it happened to me. I could barely get the pieces out of my Koralia because it pulled about 1/2 of it inside, and this thing was big, really gross. Not to mention the poor sea hare, should have never been in my tank or anybody elses. Sorry for the graphic description but you should know what you are getting into.

I do have a pink urchin that LOVES hair algae though, I would recommend them.

For the HA you can try TLC products, I just tried them and was able to get rid of a little HA that I had in my display tank,only took a couple of weeks. You can get these at Fishy Business and be sure to get both TLC products that he sells.

Phosphate reactors are inexpensive, just a bit more than a quality phosphate test kit. I can tell when my phosphates are high when I get brown algae growing on my glass instead of green, that means I need to change the media in my reactor. Let it go for a couple of days before your next glass cleaning to see what color it is. If your phosphates are high you can either get the reactor or start feeding less and do more frequent water changes. To find out easily what the levels are take a water sample to one of the stores and get it tested.

One last thing, the are HA removing tweezers that have a siphon tube built in. You start the siphone and use the tweezers to pull the algae off at the base and its pulled out of the tank, pretty simple. The are about $15 online.

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