rainbody

Yeah. I love that GFIC. The only issue is that it was running too many things. Not amps or anything but the next setup with have the return pump and maybe the skimmer on their own GFCI so that only a failure of themselves would mean a loss of power. It would prevent my issue of a powerhead failure shutdowning the core elements of the tank. Just a lesson I learned from all of this.

And the results are in. It was an submersible pump. The UV and heater both passed. The moment I plugged the pump back in, it popped. I removed the pump and found that the power input that goes into the pump housing was bad and voltage must of been leaking out into the live rock stock tank. Ill see how the night goes and post a pic of the burned out pump in the morning. Thanks for everyones help. What a way to spend an evening. Ryan

I had a electrican come out and install a 20amp circuit direct to the circuit box. Its got a GFCI circuit on the wall plug plus that standard breaker. I had it put there for just running the tank equipment which is all in the garage. Im not thinking its the GFCI at this point. My money is on the UV piece. Guess Ill find out.

It ran for 2 hours without a hitch. Afew minutes after plugging in the last 3 things(all one extension cord) it popped. So Im down to either a 18W UV, heater, or small powerhead. The trial and error testing is about to begin. Im thinking now maybe water go into the UV. The heaters is pretty new. Replace about a month ago(old heater melted bracket). Pump is noraml (hopefully) Im just thankful it doesnt look like one of the Panworld Pumps. (knock on wood) Ryan

I leave for a work "vacation" on friday. The wife is going to be "watching" the tank. Im going to be nervous until I come home. Looks like a RKM-NET is seen in my future.

As of now its doing ok. Ive unplugged alot of the extras and am only running core items. 40 mins and going well. Im now thinking that it was a surge issue and that several resets of the GFIC was needed. We will see as I bring the other items online one at a time. Any thoughts? Why are all the issues always on days you cant do much or have something pressing?

Ive got it up and running for now. It runs about 10-15 mins then kick off. The last interupt being with the possible bad pump not running. But ive got it into limp mode which means tons of microbulbs but its turning over. Could the GFIC be bad? Would back pressure on a pump cause it to trip the GFCI? Theres zero leaks or water issues that would cause a grounding at this point.

Came home to a GFI cicuit popped and I cant get it reset. It will run for afew minutes then pop again. I have no idea where the interupt is. Ive got a panworld pump that may be the cause but i cant tell. Theres black gunk that i pulled from under the pump itself. Like tar but yellow when rubbed across my fingers. Any ideas? Is the pump the issue? What else should I isolate? And I have to leave the tank for a month in 3 days!!! Ryan

I can honestly say Ive been guilt of the over feeding. Its fun. But its hard to put a label on all the fish. Depending on what you keep in the tank fish wise is how much you should feed. Anthias have a high metabolism and their natural diet doesnt contain alot of energy(zooplankton). But if they are eating other foods then it shouldnt matter. But the big one for me is the aggression. I feed several small feedings keeps the tank alot happier. I dont end up with fish with split fins and good color. Of course I have to run extra filters just to be safe. But lack of feeding leads quickly to agression especially if you keep several of the same fish. ie group of tangs. Its something to think about as you stock your system.

The one I linked is the ballast that hooks up to a reefkeeper through that Advanced Light Controller module. The digital aquatics forum has a whole slew of threads about how it works using mV 1-10. Heres a demo of what I would love to see in my own reef tank. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5L9s-wfjleA And thats with the GHL Profilux Simu Sticks.

As I contine to research where to go on my light upgrade quest, Im found dimmable T5 ballast and group of loyal followers chating thats its "the way of the future". Why I do agree that a sudden click on or off of lights is anything but natural, I like to hear from the rest of you. http://www.servicelighting.com/Sylvania-49673-QT2X54-120PHO-DIM-2-Lamp-Circline-T2-T5-Fluorescent-Ballast thats the product most are pushing. Ive yet find anything other. And for those of us running a reefkeeper this is why my exploration started http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=955 If anyone could share their knowledge or even their thoughts it would be appreciated. And if this thing works, what order would you turn the lights up in to be as natural as possible? Purples then Blues then 10ks? Any Ideas?

These are the big 36" dual tube type straight pin

4 96w straight pin bulbs never been opened. Got them by mistake. 2 10k bulbs and 2 10k/Actinic 03 blue. $25 a piece

What kind of MH lights?

I run a 1/6 hp chiller oceanic type. Its big, draws huge amounts of power(popped cicuit day one), and is yet another set of fitting to worry about. But its need to keep control of the temp swing throughout the day as the house heats up not to mention its got heater attachments for those 40 degree days in texas.

Im wanting to put in the overflow boxes insides the tank. Ive run the siphon thing for too long and want to switch to the interior boxes with the bulkhead at the bottom. Is it easier to make them myself or have them put in by a professional, if there even someone who could do that? thanks Rainbody