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Posts posted by Mike M.
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NEPTUNE APEX=THUMBS UP/MUST HAVE!
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Based on our par readings of one AI Sol fixture over a 24" deep tank, I'd say that a single SOL fixture would be outstanding for a mixed tank with mostly LPS. I bought a Derasa clam and have it down in the lower end of Fat Jack so we'll see how it does.
One AI fixture over a 24x24x24 tank is 1/2 of their recommendation for a tank that size. Hoping to get a second fixture. The control by Apex feature is truly clutch and I like watching it dim off in the evenings.
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Okay, so if we are going to play the "I check on my test kits game", the only truly smart, repeatable, and trustworthy method to verify test kits is through the use of a standard solution. Mr. Keen showed this to me and I was truly impressed. He orders a standard solution, something like alk of 7.3 similar to the standard solutions we use for pH probes and salinity refractometers and verifies his test kit in this manner. This is how lab equipment and assays are certified and if you truly want to check on your kits, this is the one and only way to be SURE.
Wish I could take credit and maybe Stephen will post where he gets the standard solutions as we should all be doing this to Walk the Walk so to speak.
As Mark said, you cannot "Know" what your salt mix will produce on a given mix because of the unknown of how your mix has settled out during shipping. It is a decent guess, but you can't know from a test like that.
So thanks Stephen for showing us how it ought to be done. If I had been more of a scientist about my reef keeping I would not have lost $2500-3000 worth of stuff!
Mike
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When they are available, don't even message to ask, just get me one of each in!
Mike
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Hate to admit it, but I like the Hanna Alk checker. I'm sold on it so to speak. Takes some of the guess work out of interpretation. Now, if they just had a Magnesium and Calcium model! Soon I hope!
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A calcium reactor is truly a pleasure when you can get it to run consistently. I have run a Korallin and a Precision Marine. I am back to two part. Never could get them to run on cruise control. I agree that there is something sexy about the idea of the trace elements putting stuff back in the water that dosing two part leaves out, but that being said, I have had good luck with growth using both methods so my anecdotal report is they both work well for the folks they work well for and that your growth will be more dependent on your lighting spectrum/intensity/photoperiod, and the nutrient levels in your tank. I think those two areas are where I would place the emphasis for someone wanting optimum growth, not cal/alk dosing method.
there's a two cents worth for free!
Mike
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Oh yeah, so I'm back to running two part with a kalk reactor. At least I know what's going in the tank now.
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I had been using a Tetra and an API alk kit. In addition, I had been having a heck of a time getting the calcium reactor to function reliably so a dip in alk was easy to achieve with the reactor vapor locking so to speak. Anyway, the test kits were telling me my alk was high to the 6.5-7.5 that I was trying to run the tank at so I kept turning the reactor output down. Fed the beast so to speak.
I bought on the Hanna Alkalinity checkers that I am on record making fun of in another thread. Oh well, if you can't beat'em, join them! Callahan is still smiling that smug grin about it to this day!
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I don't think this will make you feel any better, but I just came through a 6 week period of losing colonies like this. For me, it turned out to mostly be TWO bad alkalinity test kits. Kits were saying my alk was a 8-10 and when I got a Hanna Checker in, found out I was at 3.5. You hear about bad test kits over and over, but its hard to realize it is happening to you when it does.
No advice, just condolence. The rate at which you lost colonies suggests chemistry like Mark and Stephen said and based on what happened in my once nice tank, I'd agree. BTW, I had macro photos of the pieces and junk that came off them when I dipped them examined by numerous "experts"(some a Vivid Aquariums), and they ALL agreed that it was not a parasite or pathogen issue.
Hang in there, we'll rebuild these tanks!
Mike
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I'm needing an external pump. Looking for a Blueline or Velocity T3 if anyone has one they want to unload. Let me know what model external pump you have and what you'd like for it.
Thanks,
Mike
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If there is the belief held in the reef world that LED's bleach montis, then we definitely need a couple of varieties on the lower end of the rack to prove or bust the myth!
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I kept it for about six months and it was starting to make its change into adult plumage so to speak before it found its way to my sump and then on into my return pump. It was a quick end for him at least!
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Your welcome. I kinda feel like adding fish to a reef tank is like buying lotto tickets or playing bingo...not all cards/tickets are winners. You just have to take your chance.
Hoven's Wrasses are also called Melanrus Wrasses. You have to get an adult to get the cool coloration. Vivid sold me a rockin' cool looking Hoven's whereas Saltwaterfish.com sold me a juvenile and it was just a dumb old silver fish.
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I am seeing a ton of similarities with the JBJ Artica Commericial 1/2hp chiller that I have. It is very quiet compared to an Aqualogic. Not whisper quiet, but not a roar compared with the Aqualogic or Tunze chillers I have had in the past. THis is a GREAT deal for anyone wanting to add refrigeration to their system. If I had spare change laying around, I'd buy it from Stephen to just have redundancy for my system. THis is a cherry deal folks!
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Hoven's Wrasse is a favorite of mine. Cool look as an adult.
Secretive Wrasse-I picked one up from River City and really like how it cruises the reef and it doesn't appear to be as aggressive as a six line.
Leopard Wrasses are WAY cool in my opinion.
Gobies---the more the merrier! I have a pink spot that is 8+ years old. Love that old guy!
Aptasia Eating Filefish-don't eat a lot of aptiasia, but are very docile and interesting in their behavior.
Love our bicolor Blenny. He can be rowdy, but he is entertaining nonetheless.
Barlett's Anthias-I've had one for about four months now and really like how it stays out in the current. Give it some consideration. The Bartlett's do well in captivity. I feed one time per day. It is fat and happy.
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All right, I'll see if I can chip a piece of my superman and if not, we'll raid Hollywood's tank!
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Can you mix aptasia in with the xenia for a true omniverous invertebrate filtration system?
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Now there's an idea...If LED's will kill xenia, I'm sure it will give AI an leg up in the marketing world. They can advertise, "Killer SPS growth and KILLS Xenia"
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okay, one vote for xenia...Callahan, you must be sleep deprived. WTF? Xenia...might as well throw in a fist full of GSP.
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So seriously, I'd like suggestions of what you all might like to see grown under LEDs. I have room for LPS on the bottom and then all sorts of places to poke pieces of SPS for the obersvation and shootout.
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BTW....I have been know to bump to some Enimem from time to time. I'm 40, so I probably mispelled Enimem.
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So here's what Fat Jack looks like with the new frag rack and a little live rock for interest installed. The rack is made from ABS and PVC I purchased from Grainger. It will hold just over 100 frags loaded and as you can see, has an elevation for most any type of coral. I'd like to know what varieties of SPS you all would like to see in the "shoot out".
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Mark's suggestion of an MP40 and an MP10 are spot on. A nano wavebox would be a good addition also if you are charging it up with no regard to the old AMX bill at the end of the month.
I added a MP60 at xmas and have been extremely impressed with its performance and management via the Apex controller and WXM module.
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I think it ought to be titled LED Shootout!
Now if we can get University funding, a large place like yours to set it up in, a staff to keep the tanks, and a huge sponsors...now we are talking study. Honestly though, I think the semantics do support "experiment". I think a lot of the previous dissection comes from the idea that it is a controlled "study". Experiments do not require stringent rules, controls or otherwise. Like we talked about with Don on Friday, he is "experimenting" with limited water changes, Plus Rite bulbs, and Vodka. They are noncontrolled, nonblinded, experiments. So really we are doing an experiment and Mark wasn't at all wrong to call it so. We are NOT doing a study.
I am happy to talk about this stuff all day long. It is good entertainment. The string hijacking to compare costs and report how you can do it cheaper with other types of lights...not interested. As I said above, LEDS are not and will not be a choice for the cost conscious any time soon. I see thread after thread going down the "I can do it cheaper" road and the thread dead ends.
So, I am working on completing the frag rack and I picked up the first two frags to put, one each of each species, in the main tank under MH and in Fat Jack with the LED's as soon as tomorrow. I'll try and post some pictures so you all can get an idea of where we are starting.
That cool Rainbow millie I picked up from you Friday and a Turaki I picked up from Michael D. are going to be some of our experiment subjects.
Thanks for the background on freezer compressors. You saved me a bunch of frustration and some bucks!
Sherri and I enjoyed seeing your koi pond. You have a really nice spread out there south of Elgin. I found myself a little jealous!
More to come kids!
MIke
LED Question
in Reef Keeping
Posted
Correct and as much as I like the AI unit, I hate their controller. It is one knob and a lot of clicking to set up the light schedule. The Apex interface is pretty clutch. It has a very friendly GUI that has fields for ramp time and dimming time for the lights. Supposedly, the latest Apex Beta software also has control for the Royal Blue leds on the unit. Right now, you only control BLUE and WHITE.
I am playing with the idea of upgrading my software to try it out. Scary though to upgrade software from my point of view.