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4R00P3R

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Posts posted by 4R00P3R

  1. 1) I drove from Washington, D.C. to Austin in under 24 hours. :rock:

    2) Almost 5 years after starting college, I'm still a sophmore(shhh, please don't tell); meanwhile; I have a cousin who graduated from Harvard and programs for Google, and another cousin who is an engineer at LosAlamos. <_<

    3) I got a credit card for the first time this October to finance my reef and i'm already 90% to my credit limit. :doh:

    4) I can't get enough stereo equipment. dj.gif

    5) I watch TV more that most people sleep. :wacko:

  2. Quiet one pumps are rated at below 45db! That's not very quiet.

    While the Eheim pumps use less electricity thus producing less heat, they cost more and don't have listings for head pressure effects.

    I use MagDrive. Primarily because they were the first one recommended to me. Also because they're cheap, they have higher flow-rate models than the others, they tell you the gph at different elevations, and they keep my tank at 76*F(by luck, making the job easy for my heater).

  3. No more worries. I got the ghost shrimp in a turkey baster and was able to release the shrimp into the cave where the lion perches. Within one minute the lion noticed something and started looking around. It was so cool to watch the stupid shrimp walk right up to the lion's face and then get gulped.

  4. I was pointed to this thread which will give better answers than any tests we could do.

    http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1216536

    Sorry to say it but that thread is a bunch of BLAH BLAH BLAH with very little practical information. The 3 or so tests they mention were all independently conducted with different water sources. One of the tests isn't even freshly missed, it was their tank water. Another didn't even say what brand of salt.

    Let's have a thread for discussing this topic, and another thread for "results only" which include manufactured salts and real natural sea water. That would be helpful to everyone.

  5. The only time mine made noise was either when it was so close to the surface it sucked in water or for the first few seconds each time it was turned on especially when it was pointed down. Make sure the impeller shaft is in the hole on both ends too. Maybe you have a defective unit.

  6. If you have to get one at a time I would consider getting the actinics before the second halide so that you don't have as much die off in your tank. I'm not positive but I think most coraline algae relies highly on actinic spectrum light to live. They will also go all the way across the tank and light up both sides. Just an idea. Actinics can make your tank look really cool by themselves. That would give a cool effect of a gradient until you get the other halide, but I've never seen it done.

    Are you going to use 14k, 10k, or 20k bulbs? If I had money I would by 4 smaller halides. Then I could put a 14k and a 20k on each side of the tank. I recommend the 14s, but I don't know anything about brands.

  7. I would really like to see more tests done. Can we all bring different salts to the next meeting (although only about 10 people have shown interest and I'm sure we don't all use 10 different types of salt)? You could collect the different kinds and mix up some batches when you get home. The batches should all be 1.025 sp grav, 79*F, and mixed for 24 hrs before testing. Many salts have compounds that can take a day to fully integrate. We should also wait until we have more tests so we don't have to do this twice. Let's make a list of the ones that are important. That will be a good future meeting topic: water quality, parameters and dosing.

    kH

    pH

    Mg

    Mn

    K

    Ph

    Ca

    S

    Si

    Br

    Se

    I

    Mo

    B

    Na

    Sr

    P

    Cl

    Hopefully some will read zero such as Si and P. Maybe we don't need to test those since a manufacturer would have to be retarded to include those elements. I didn't realize how many trace elements are important. I probably didn't even get them all listed. So who has which tests? I only have pH and kH.

    Oh yeah we should also get some U and Pu! j/k :D:spell::whistle:

  8. I'm pretty sure the type of pendant doesn't matter as much as the type of bulb. I would get the least expensive as long as they have quality reflectors that preferably are angled or rounded on all sides. Are you going with 250w or 400watt bulbs and ballasts? I think you will need 4 54watt t5 actinics to supplement these halides. I noticed you were asking about them in the other thread.

  9. I have a whole bucket of RedSea Coral Pro. I thought that's what you were talking about. I didn't realize RedSea makes 2 kinds. If you plan on getting some anyway I recommend going to Deep Blue Aquariums. They sell buckets for $60.

  10. I'm not sure if I spelled that correctly, but it's not eating. I got some ghost shrimp today but I'm not sure how to feed him. I should have put him in my quarintine tank until he was eating regularly but I forgot. It's hiding behind all the rocks and has barely moved since I got it. Will it starve itself to death or get hungry and come out to look for food?

  11. I'm a little confused by your proposed setup. As for the distance over the water it depends on 2 things: the angle of the reflectors, and the temperature.

    I would also recommend (after having an expensive problem) to cover the bulbs and reflectors with thin acrylic similar to the setup of a Coralife PC fixture. The acrylic will keep the salt off the bulbs and reflectors. The salt can corrode the reflectors and block the light. It is much cheaper to buy new acrylic periodically than a new retrofit kit and bulbs!

    As for the height, off the water I recommend 4-6 inches. The real issue is what angle the light enters the tank. I would buy the lights you plan to use. Then raise and/or lower them over the tank (with the acrylic attached) and simply look to see when there is the most intense amount of light in your tank. Then you will know how tall to build the canopy.

    Let me know if that helps.

  12. Hi folks - We just discovered your board and this is our first post. We'll keep our eyes open for people needing help with RO and RODI / water purification issues.

    Russ @ BFS

    At what maximum TDS should a filter be changed before it starts effecting the membrane?

  13. I can't wait to see what's new. If no one else is willing to use their home we can use mine. My tank's not really well established and I would most likely get some criticism, but it's too fun to pass up a meeting.

  14. a good place to add your topoff is in your overflow. that way it's well mixed before it reaches any sensitive lifeforms.

    Good idea aquarius. Karen, make sure when you put the tube in the overflow it doesn't go underwater! I have a feeling that should solve the problem.

    also, adding to gabe's comment, the output not only needs to be higher than the input end of the tube, but higher than the water level at the input end(ie. if the input end is 15in underwater, then you need the output end to be over 15in from the ground to make it higher than the water at the intake.) If I recall Karen has a 55gal drum which would definately have a water level above her sump.

  15. so i bought this gorgous rock with a bunch of xmas tree worms and a little crab hanging out in it. but it turns out my peppermint thought it looked like a good meal... so before the bugger got anything its in the sump. someone please tell me you want to buy this? ill put up a pic. it is really nice and a lot of fun. i just cant keep it.

    asking 40

    5128093458

    didn't you just buy this from joseph on this site for $30? Would you take a trade? I've got some nice mushrooms or if I can catch them a scooter blenny and a yellowtail wrasse or combo: part trade,part $.

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