Ibnzmonkey

I am disappoint.

I was expecting to see a home without any fencing.

Oh jesus. The massive amount of reef related sexual puns is never ending.

" 20k MH lit SPS junkie. I'm a show-er not a grow-er"

LOLOLOL

Wow. That almost happened to me a week ago when I was plumbing my tank. LUCKILY I noticed it right before I pressed the pieces together for final gluing.

Well, that bites then if you can run the modes in 1/3. So I guess it is wp40s then and not the 60s, I would go with...

From what I've read the wp-40s are quieter than the mp40s after an initial breaking cycle of 2 weeks or so. Brooks or ibnzmonkey may be able weigh in on that.

Well to be honest they were pretty noisy on their initial run when I installed them in my tank for testing. You could hear them ramp up and down in ELSE mode at full blast from about 10ft away. Turning down the speed lowered the noise considerably. Since I was just doing a water test on my tank I decided to run them full blast in ELSE mode for about 48 hours. They are MUCH quieter now that they've broken in and when I lower the speed they're pretty much silent.

Now the loudest thing in my system is the skimmer.

Well, that bites then if you can run the modes in 1/3. So I guess it is wp40s then and not the 60s, I would go with...

If you reference post #89 in this thread it directs you to a simple mod where you can have speed control in any mode.

I have a soft spot for 40Bs. Yours looks excellent!

I am thining running them in 1/3 mode to even be quieter. I figure it would be similar to the MP60, maybe a little more and I have a 180g tank...

The problem with 1/3 mode is that it can't be used in any of the wave mode functions. It's just a straight stream.

1000 gallons. That is going to be a pretty serious investment. I wouldn't consider that an ocean though. More like an indoor enclosed pond. I wish you good luck on your build.

You are correct about having an engineer give an assessment on the load bearing of the foundation. The tank and water will weigh in excess of 9000 lbs but be spread out over that 144"x30" area.

You're right about that. I can give a few insights on this situation. If you have a solid concrete reinforced slab foundation you should be good to go. As long as everything is completely level you shouldn't have any problems. I would consult with your home builder and see if you can get a set of plans for your home and see exactly what you're working with.

I ran into some hilarious issues today. It seems as though the silicone I used to secure my baffle in my sump is almost a year past it's "use by" date. Which sucks because I bought it almost 3 weeks ago. You got me good Home Depot! I was wondering why it was still sort of spongy after a few days of cure time...

Anyways, some time during the night the baffle gave way and dislodged itself from the silicone. Same thing with my overflow wall.. I guess next time I'll check the date before I buy. Looks like I have some razor blading to do this weekend.

No bueno.

I am super jealous of all the space you have in that stand...I am having to get creative just to jam everything I "need" into 3 pieces of furniture

Thanks. I hated the fact that my last stand was barely large enough to fit my sump. The ATO was outside the tank in an ottoman and looked kind of out of place. When I built this stand I was determined to make it to where I have enough space for the bare essentials.

The WP-40 is a pretty beefy unit that moves some serious water. I can only imagine a 60 model... I bet you could make something like this out of a few of them.

Although they have the different settings, dimming/slowing the motor this way can cause damage to a motor depending on how it is built. Just because they have a low setting that drops to a predetermined rate dosent mean you can run between those two speeds and get correct cooling and operation. I'm not saying it won't work I'm just saying we won't know for sure until longer testing. <br /><br />I've seen can fans that are allowed to adjust speed by their control but when applied to a dimming control linked to humidity they have shut down because the speeds you adjust to aren't cooling properly with the right amount of flow past them. Something that is considered when set to predetermined speeds.<br /><br />Now this shouldn't happen with passive cooling effects of it submerged but is a possibility with electronic motors.<br /><br />I will be modding the ones I get though following your mod.<br /><br />I also sent jebao an email to get the gb started on the right track. Asked for price breaks on wp40 and wp25 plus shipping costs. As soon as I get a response ill let you know. Might end up calling them and seeing if they have anyone in English working.

I understand your cause for concern. The only reason why I think this mod is okay is because they are submerged. Most open air DC motors that are used to do work have a cooling fan built into the rotor. This fan is usually located inside of the main body and draws in air through vents to cool the motor. In this configuration, there needs to be a minimum RPM the motor needs to turn in order to cool itself properly. These types of motors might also have a built in self control unit which monitors temperature as well as RPM in order to determine the best possible speed. I can see where a manual override would cause it to over heat if the load increased without proper increase in cooling.

The only other thing I can really compare this to is to some of the Tunze models. They come with a switchable power supply that has a switch on the side to select different output voltages. Same exact thing as my mod except its a linear switch instead of a rotary knob.

If you wanted to emulate the Tunze, you could just go ahead and buy this switching power supply and use it instead of the OEM power supply that comes with the Jebao. No splicing required and you get pre-set voltages.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adapter-Charger-Laptop-Notebook/dp/B0027C16H0/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367281263&sr=1-19&keywords=12-24+power+supply

One last thing. The motor on the Jebao has a 3 wire configuration. Much like a PC fan. It has a positive, negative, and RPM signal. This means that it has native support for speed control built right in. However, the controller makes very minimal use out of it with only a Hi/Lo setting and a terrible photoresistor.

Sounds good. They are cheap enough so that they should be fine to experiment with.

I just need the time to sift through the multitudes of pages over at RC on the topic of hooking one up to an arduino pwm controller

Good luck. It's a pretty lengthy thread. Somewhere near the end someone was saying that there is a company that now sells a prebuilt cable for Reef Angel and Arduino.

AMAZING tutorial! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.

No problem. However, I have heard from Jebao that the next incarnation of these pumps will have speed control built in.

http://marineplantbook.com/marinebookindex.htm

This is the best common sense link that I have found on macro.

I have several different species that I am cultivating in my product line. Come out and visit me. With respect to your LED broad spectrum lighting, it would not be my choice for macro growth. By dimming down your blue spectrum to simulate 10K overall appearance, you provide nothing extra for the macro. You only are removing the blue spectrum. Try several diffrerent species and see how they do. I use T5 fixtures with a 1:1 ratio of actinic with 5400K growout bulbs.

Patrick

I was under the impression that algae grow best under the warmer color scales?

Very nice craftsmanship with stand/cabinet. What do you invision for inhabitants of your lagoon? Patrick

PS: I just saw your user name on another thread about macro. I will use the other thread to discuss your options.

I'll discuss macro in the other thread. As far as critters are concerned? I'm not sure. I want a peaceful community system with lots of diversity. I'll be running a heavy clean up crew just like I did with my 40B. That tank essentially took care of itself. I may look into using salt water mollies as a shoaling fish.

Thank you for sharing. I have a mostly SPS dominant tank so I will be aiming for some good, strong, and random flow. I guess I will give another week on the group buy but if it doesn't happen by then, its ebay time.

Where did you get the dimmers from?

This is what I used. For high random flow maybe both set to max would be best? I'm not sure about SPS tanks since I'm more of a softy guy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00833CT3C/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wow! You are too awesome for writing up this mod. I asked about it in your build thread and then just saw the write-up.

So at what level are you running the two pumps in your tank? I am curious because I have the same size tank.

-Ty

I have a pump in W1 @ 15.5v and the blue frequency knob is in the middle. The other pump is in ELSE mode and set at 20v. This gives a good flow pattern and I don't think it would knock anything around too hard.

Hello,

I am going to be starting a 125g 6' lagoonal reef system. It will be filled with some encrusting corals such as Xenia, GSP, and some of the Euphyllia species of coral (Hammer, Torch, Frogspawn). Low to moderate corals will be the name of the game here. There will also be various macros as well to fill in the gaps.

The problem im encountering is that I'm not too well versed in macro algaes. My current lighting consists of three 120w full spectrum LED fixtures that are about 10" above the water line with 90* optics. I know too powerful of lighting will cause some of the more sensitive species of macro to go sexual.

My question is, what kinds of algae can I keep in a medium lit tank system? I can dim the lights and mix them to produce more of a 10k look instead of the 14k+ that most people use.

My goal is to recreate something like this below. Not ultimately word for word, but more or less what I'm going after.

Cool. I meant "build" as in successfully hold water and living things in a box. Not nessecarilly the DIY part.

Oh, no. It's not my first build in that sense of the word. I had South American Cichlids before. Heres what my 40B looked like before I ended up selling it.

The only things I need to finish this current build is just 200lbs of base rock and just enough sand to cover about 1.5" of the floor.

For those who are curious. I made a thread regarding adding speed control to the WP-40.

http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/26903-jebao-wp-40-speed-control-mod/#entry201031

Nice lagoon. I'm going to be starting mine hopefully in the next few months.

You guys are correct. The DC motor in the WP-40 has the ability to run at about 13v. I measured the controller output in H and L mode. H mode is around 23.78v. Therefore, you can ramp between the two high and low setpoints without damaging the motor or controller. However, do not go below 12v or else you may damage the controller or cause the motor to stall uncontrollably.

Please reference my Jebao mod thread for further details.

http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/26903-jebao-wp-40-speed-control-mod/

I see there are quite a few threads on here regarding the WP-40 from Jebao. Most of the concerns center around it not having a great speed control. Only a high and low function. I have remedied that for you guys and have a working example video as well.

I measured the controller output in H and L mode. H mode is around 23.78v and L mode is runs at about 13v. Therefore, you can ramp between the two high and low setpoints without damaging the motor or controller. The controller requires at least 12v to operate correctly or else it causes the motor to stall and stutter. I say, as long as you just keep it above 13v you should be okay.

Read along and I will try my best to explain what I did to add variable speed control to my WP-40. It works in any one of the pre-set modes.

Step 1:

You're going to need a Jebao WP-40 and one of these 12-24v PWM dimmers. You can find these on Amazon, Ebay, local electronics store, etc..

Step 2:

Unbox everything and go ahead and grab the power supply. It's the only thing you're going to be modifying in this tutorial.

Step 3:

You're going to want to measure down about 7 or so inches from the end of the connector and carefully cut and peel away the insulation on the DC side of the power supply. You should be left with two sets of wires like so..

Step 4:

Next you're going to want to pull about 1/4" of the insulation off on each of the 4 ends to reveal the copper core. Loosen the connectors on the dimmer and insert wires to corresponding terminals. V IN +/- come from the power supply. V OUT +/- go to the controller.

Step 5:

You should have something resembling the picture below. You can power up the controller with no motor attached to see if you get power. If it lights up green, you should be good to go. I advise testing it out in a bathtub or spare tank to see if you got it working correctly.

I like this controller because it has little test points on each terminals so you can put a DMM on it and see exactly where 13v and 24v then mark the points on the dimmer so you know not to go under or over it's range. Well, technically just under.

Here is a video showing the results of my mod. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Looks nice. Look forward to seeing your build. I'm guessing this is not your first build.

I had a 40B before this but it wasnt very DIY intensive. I store bought mostly everything. This time around I'm doing things a little differently.

So something like this?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=230754876471

Actually yes. That will work if you don't want to splice anything. It essentially does the exact same thing. The only problem is that you dont have nifty test points to see exactly what voltage is where on the wheel. As to not go under 12v.

What I found on the wp25 was something like 1300-1500 gph. I think the demo video may have been filmed on a 75 gal. From brooks' wp40s, the controller that comes with them gives full throttle or 1/3 throttle. I've read the there are ways to run them through a controller with a mod and software (I know nothing of controllers) or with a dimmer switch.

I chickened out on the group buy. To me there seemed to be too many unknowns and too many "if you tweak its". I'm not joining the anti jebao team. They still seem to be pretty neat for the price.

I just posted on how to run them with a dimmer. You can for a fact also run them through a Reef Angel or Reef Keeper controller. They sell connectors for them over in the RC forum. Since these motors have a two speed setting, you CAN ramp from the lower setting to the highest without damaging the motor or controller.

The problem comes from going below 12vdc. The Jebao controller NEEDS at least 12vdc or else it wigs out and causes the pump to stall. That's why I said to use a 12-24v dimmer. 0-24 causes too many controller issues.