xcreonx

Hello. Over the last 6 months I've been re-doing my 35g tank.

Here's my old tank: http://www.austinreefclub.com/index.php?ac...p;f=14&id=4

I decided to do something a little bit different. After living on the ocean in Florida for 10 years I wanted to create a more 'natural' look. I also wanted to focus on my beautiful healthy Elegance and Fox corals as the centerpieces with a few choice corals joining them. This setup may not represent a biotope of any kind, but it does look more like what I'm used to seeing in the ocean.

I suspended some red mangrove seeds to encourage prop roots and I added some various macroalgaes. Surprisingly, several macros just showed up including the Halimeda, the Codium and the Razor Caulerpa. I have no idea where they came from!

As far as equipment, Im keeping it really simple. Im using a Tunze Nanostream with a controller for movement, an air pump / air stone running constantly (except in the photos... microbubbles) and big water changes for filtration. There's also a Tunze Osmolator for topoff. You will notice a very huge, ugly heater that I need to switch out for a smaller, more concealed unit. Lighting is the same as my old tank, 4-light Teklight T5 fixture.

Enough talk, onto the photos:

Thanks for checking out my new tank! I'll try to answer any questions you may have.

Do you mean manual focus mode or manual exposure mode? Also it's going to depend on your camera and the brand of tube. If you get a generic tube with a nikon body, you'll probably go full manual. I dont know, it will depend.

Also remember these extension tubes aren't true macro lenses. They merely extend the magnification of the lens. A true macro lens will give close to a 1:1 subject-to-film-size image, meaning a snail captured on the film itself will be as large as the snail in real life. Extension tubes cannot get this close (usually .67x). Also tubes are generally very soft on the edges of the frame. You also get a very small depth of field with the tubes, which is attractive, but makes focusing very difficult (even more difficult with manual focus) especially with moving subjects like fish.

Extension tubes are definitely cheaper than a true macro lens but you certainly dont get the same result.

Whichever you get, you'll definitely want a macro lens for closeup shots.

I have a few SLRs I use: Nikon D100 (6mp), Nikon F5 (35mm) and Nikon F (35mm). Yes, I like Nikon!

As far as lenses go I only use two: Nikon 17-35mm 1.8, and Nikon 60mm Micro (Macro lens).

Never used the Rebel but I know people really like it.

John, do you have the names of the brand of DI filters that target Silicate?

It's about that time to change filters.

My TDS downtown Austin reads around 126. The water is definitely hard. Other than that I havent tested it. After my RoDI it is 0 of course.

Much better than my water in Florida which was a TDS of around 630! Nasty stuff.

My tank is kept around 81. I've kept it anywhere from 78 - 82 in the past. I've never seen any negative effects either way. Now I just keep it at 81 and everyone seems healthy.

Do you still have the RBTA? If so, how big is "medium sized".

Are you interested in trades?

Thanks!

I agree with james on the 14k Reeflux. Nice bulb.

If you like the blue look, the XM 20k can't be beat. I used to propagate SPS with the 400w XM 20k over the tub and the colors were mindblowing. But it is VERY blue, very fluorescent.

hmm. the teflon tape should stop the leak....

Also, you need a siphon break in your output nozzles so they dont drain all the water down into the sump. This can be a simple small hole drilled in the pipe at the water line to break the siphon when the pump is turned off.

HAHA! I know the feeling!

Ok, tomorrow at lunch will be great. I will email you directions and my contact info tonight when i get home. THanks

-Joe

yeah.... something decided to kill and eat my harlequinns.... i found a nasty crab and took care of him, but i think perhaps my blue damsel had a hand in the shrimp death... anyways i wont be getting harlequinns anytime soon. they're gorgeous but a pain in the ace

Dee,

I am in class all day today through tonight. i am free tomorrow (thursday) until about 1pm. Other than that friday and the weekend are open.

I am not available on Wed at all, classes all day, so thursday is best for me.

message me and we'll figure a time.

I've got 2 med size Chocolate Chip stars. If you want them they are yours!

I have some nice corals for sale:

- Metallic green Frogspawns: $7/head

-- I have 3 frags with 3-5 heads each and one with 7-8 heads.

- Purple and Blueish Hammer: About 14 heads and many more smaller oines popping up! $60

- Reddish-purple giant hairy Rhodactis mushroom about 6-7" across (will NOT eat fish, this is not that kind of shroom). $45

- Various sizes of green Sinularia corals and frags. Med Sinularias are $20 and small frags are $5

- Small Lobophytum finger leather, cream color. $20

- Large Sinularia Dura cabbage leather, cream with pale green polyps (beautiful!). $60

- Med Capnella Kenya tree cream/pink. $25

- Tonga branch rock with Anthelia and pink w/green mouth Zoanthids. $35

- 2 Chocolate Chip stars. Free!

Some photos

Hammer with polyps closed to show number of heads (the red thing is a tube from a worm no longer there)

All prices are for pickup only. No shipping please! I am on the south side of downtown Austin.

Yes, I will make you a deal if you want a few corals!

I'm interested in both, honestly. I am more inclined to get an RBTA, but Im also curious of a tiny GBTA. It almost sounds like tulip anemone and I wanted to check out a photo.

You can email me a photo is you wish:

joe(At)sixlinefilms(dot)com

Do you have photos? I'm very interested.

Skimmer and Ozone still up for grabs.

You've got mail

Def skip the Hippo tang. A 120 is too small. Those guys get BIG. And they swim like crazy. A 120 is still a very small tank as far as swimming space is concerned, especially a 4' tank.

There are ALOT of beautiful, unusual Wrasses: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scateg.cfm?pCatId=1378

Also look at the various Anthias (beware of their special needs though) and Rabbitfish.

Skip the larger Angels like the Koran, as they'll get over a foot long and will most likely nip at SPS or LPS.

One of the smaller Genicanthus Angels would be great, like the Swallowtail (I had one in my old 180, gorgeous), the Lamarck's or the Watanebei Angels.

Just be careful with adjusting your salt mix. the ph of DI water can be pretty acidic (ph of 5 in some cases)

Yes, DI water is generally more purified than RO. I have DI cartridges after my RO to purify completely.

Dee,

Can you tell us more about your tank? What is "good" lighting? What are your parameters? ph? alk / ca?

Thats strange James. Like I said I never had heat issues with the Eheim on my 35g...

I wonder if you've checked the temp with a different thermometer? Possibly a bad one? What heater are you using now?

Those lights will certainly put out alot of heat. Maybe some fans across the top of the tank? (unsightly I know, but my new tank has a 250w DE and without the fan it runs about 84, and steady 78.6 with)

I wish I could think of more.... good luck!

Thanks James! I know you'll love the Eheim

Deltec and ozone still up for grabs. A few more days and I'll put it up on RC so get it now!