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Posts posted by OU12004
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Heater is upstream but it has 2 failsafes on it and has been within .2 degrees since I set up the apex. LED is the cheap refugium light that came with the tank, it is set to come on at 11pm and go off at 8am. Also the amps are off on the heater all night
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Heater is on the left side of the sump and is controlled by the Apex probe in the right side of the sump. Lights start ramping up at 8am to a max of 33 blue 22 white from 11-4 then ramp back down, then off at 11pm
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I'm not sure what's going on with my tank, the heat is going up starting at 78.4 at 5pm and going up to around 80.5 by 6am then starts falling back to 78 by 4 or 5pm. The room temp is 77 to 78 degrees and I only have a very small led light on at night. The heat cycle seems counterintuitive to what I would expect.
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That fish is awesome, I saw one the other day and wanted to get it but in my tank I figured I would never see it again.
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Full tank shot
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Apex is working so I figured I would make some filter socks that I saw online. Cost about 50 cents each.
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Sorry I was joking that the color of that coral is similar to the "blue dress" picture that has gone viral. In the first pic it is white and gold a color some people see and in the second pic the coral looked blue and black which is the actual color of the dress. I was just checking if I was seeing the right colors in your pics.
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So like the dress it is blue and black?
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Huh In the last 2 coral pics I see white and gold and in the next pic I see blue and black it can't be the same colony.
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Regular wifi is working fine and Fusion has been working fine since I set it up at Christmas (of course I was in town). I used a wifi extender then ran a Cat5 wire to into the APEX and I have not had a problem until I left town. I had my wife do the standard IT thing, turn it off and back on but the signal is not coming back. I am just really pissed that a 99 dollar Kindle has built in wifi, a 100 dollar printer has built in wifi, but a $600 dollar controller doesn't! My tank is on the other side of the house from my router so I would need to run a couple hundred feet of cable to hard wire it and I am not usually handy.
I set up a drip of part b (alk has been at 2.5 and ph at 7.8) before I left and planned to monitor the ph and adjust if needed, but I had my wife unplug the aqualifter as I was not sure if I had the failsafe logic and drip set correctly. No big deal but still annoying.
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I got the APEX for piece of mind when I travel, but of course, as soon as I go out of town the APEX stops working and just says APEX disconnected! Why in the blank does APEX not build in wifi. Stop being greedy and bult in the blanking wifi. Sorry for the rant but for the price you should not have to buy a seperate piece of equipment to connect it.
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Everyone loves this fish!
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New anemone green with pink tips and white speckles
Mushrooms
Stylo and Monti
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Are you selling these? They are really nice.
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I just finished moving over my fish and coral from my 29 gallon tank and found a purple banded shrimp I haven't seen in 10 months. Wow that thing can hide!
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Just waiting for Sam to let me know when the reinforcements are healed and I am heading that way.
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The Westside is recruiting if you know any volunteers, their numbers are a little thin.
I added another 20 pound bag of black sand that was a heavier grain and I have been shiphoning out the lighter sand when it makes its way to the top. So far no more sand storms.
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SPS side after the crash
LPS side
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Good to know about the uv, I should have asked about the buffer before I used something that I didn't fully understand.
If it ain't broken don't fix it.
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The corals originally bleached white but I reduced the lights to 25% blue and 20% white max and the color came back and the LPS opened back up. They were happy for a few weeks then I decided to change the ph and the with in a few days of the change 3 of 5 sps RTNed. I'm sure the change to LEDs did stress them and didn't help.
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I used the Kent superbuffer DKH at a quarter teaspoon every other day and watched the ph until it hit 8 then stopped, but it went up to 8.15 after I stopped putting it in.
I did not test or add anything to my 30 gallon tank and the only loses I had were from corals falling on each other or them attacking each other over a 2 year period.
I got the Apex and figured I could keep everything inline if I could check it everyday for swings, but I am thinking about leaving it alone and just going back to weekly water changes. My concern would be that a drop back to 7.8 would do even more damage.
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I have had 3 sps mini colonies die this week and I think it is because I increased my ph from 7.8 to 8.15 over a 2 week period. All of the other corals look stressed out now to. I tested my other tank and it is still at 7.8 with all of the coral looking good. I guess this is what I get for chasing parameters that are listed as ideal instead of keeping everything stable even if it is out of range.
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I moved my Dragon Soul favia over to my new tank and in the process I accidentally broke the rocks it was growing on apart and split it down the middle. I usually see frags that follow along the heads and not split down the middle, should I be worried?
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It is a neon green from Fishy Business, they had a colony but it was a little to big for my 29
100g Rimless with suspended canopy
in Tank Builds
Posted
So the temp has continued to rise, I was hoping that once it got to around 82 it would stop but it got up to 83 and was still going up so I picked up a $10 dollar clip on fan, hooked it up to the Apex and put it in the sump. The fan has brought down the temp to 81.5 and is keeping it there for now but I need a better solution. I do not want to go the chiller route and I am currently looking for a better fan. Has anyone tried any of the aquriam fans or should I build something with CPU fans?