bananags

You can make your own over flow with PVC pipes for about $15

if you have a large tank, use more than one pipe, if you do it correctly, it works much better than the overflow box and will never lose siphon, I saw a detail step by step post on how to make this some where before, can't remember now

but these link below maybe give you an idea.

I drilled my own tank =)

Paint the pipe black also for look

here are some variation of the same concept

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...mp;pagenumber=1

http://www.reefbuilders.com/forums/diy-pro...rflow-sump.html

video

good luck

you sure he is not eating or he is FULL already

inventory your life stock and see who is missing?

hee hee

this sea cucumber right?

i was reading up on them before, if they die, take it out, the release toxic to water and will kill your fish. i have them before but decided to return them since i don't want to take the risk

thats what i thought 2. i think it is a mini cycle. the tank is 2 months old now. but it in the last 3 weeks i've doubled the lr, added quite a bit of plants, and almost 8x upped the lighting. so i think with the lights and plants a lot more stuff is quickly being put out. water change...

thanks gents. 30min mixing heh

hey Joseph, the acoporas I got from you still growing but not very fast, i guess i did not run the light long enough hee hee. I'll check with you on more stuff when i get the new tank up ha ha

thank for giving me a tour and lesson last time hee hee

Anh

most all the recommendation I saw was to mix salt/water overnight before use

here is my question:

if you mix water with 1 pump for 12 hours, then if you use 2 pumps, will this cut the mixing time in half ie 6hrs? or put a few Mag 12 and have it done in 1 hr?

why do I need to mix all night, what is the goal here? mix all the salt and create extra free O2 in the water right?

or is there some slow chemical reaction that need to take place over the moon light to create sea water here?

I am just asking this just in case of emergency water change, I need to make a large amount of water, can I short the time by adding more pump?

Regards

Anh

I am in the middle of setting up a new tank also, 125gal with 30 gal sump

but with a new born at home, this will take me a while to complete everything

here are what I've done so far, maybe you can copy or maybe other can give me suggestion also

I have a 29gal reef running for a year now, nothing much, but I've learn a few lesson over the year

(my 29 using a Squid on a mag 9.5 for close loop and DIY siphon pipe for the sump drain, no tank drilling, i got an HOB but got rid of it)

My goal is to plan a reef tank with minimum parts, reliable, energy efficient, spend less time maintaining, cleaning, and if I have to clean, it better be easy to get to it.

-> take your time, draw every thing on paper, visualize if you are going to have to replace something, can you get to it

-> have a back up plan for everything

-> drilled tank is the way to go -> return and close loop

-> mag pump like to freeze up due to calcium deposit, noisy and generate a lot of heat

(you can find good iwaki pump from craiglist or on the classified website a lot of time, these pump are really made to last forever ha ha, eheim pump is good, it can be use in sump like Mag )

if you don't want to drill, use 2 over flow box at both ends, at least have a back up, but you will be tired of cleaning them all the time due to algae build up inside the U tupe

Stuff I have so far: (collected over several months)

-Pump: Iwaki MD30 (close loop), Iwaki WMD 40 (sum return)

-125gal tank /stand (used)

-30 gal glass sump from old aquarium tank

-stand and canopy (open up for easy access to clean the tank)

-Euro Reef RS180 + gate valve

-Corallife pro retrofit kit : 2 x 150W MH and 2 x 93w actinic with moon light

-Calcium reactor (still need the Co2 bottle) but this is later, no hurry

-Extra mag 9.5 for mixing water or emergency pump failure replacement

-heaters (not really needed in texas, maybe in winter)

-old Eheim canister filter, ==> plan to modified it to use as a cleaning device to clean the rock and sand etc...

-Aquarium controller to protect pump, control water level, and lighting also

(I wrote my own microcontroller, but I definitely recommend having something similar, less chance to burn up the pump or flood the floor, and less work on the operator also ie--> me)

Need to get: filter sock for sum and phosban reactor (little fishy)

( may run carbon or phosban depend on the water condition, since you don't need them unless your water quality suck

but i have seen and read may good thing about the filter sock, I wanted clear water, this is the way to go =) )

=====================

Light:

Built a custom canopy to house 2 MH 150W and 2 x 93W actinic (simulation, sun/noon/ afternoon with the 2 MH)

(I have an extra Odessa MH light setup (2 MH and 4 T5 bulbs) unit that I am not using, it's too heavy for the hood to open up)

Wave device:

Close Loop: (drain 1.5", 3/4" return, 3/4" return, and 2 more return over the top of the tank integrated in the canopy_

Ocean motion 4 way

Pump: Iwaki MD30

2 of the returns are going to the rock racks set up to force water out from under the live rock and to the aqurium floor for random effect (each rack consist of 7 outlets)

2 of the returns are going over the top of the tank for back and forth motion

After many drawing and design, i am almost complete with the pluming, setup also accommodate extra outlets to get water for sensor or chiller or what ever I may need at later time w/o re-glue the pluming.

1.5" PVC for all drains and 1" PVC for all the returns (convert down to 3/4 at the inlet side)

(simplified buying part, and less pressure drop)

1" spa flex tub for all close loop return and drain

you can remove and replace any of the pump at ease (flex tube /coupling and valve are in place to shut down any connection for service

(cost me $200 worth of pluming part, all homedepot ) --> i am still high on the PVC cement glue to spend this much on ball valve and connectors

All bulkhead that I used are threaded type so they can be remove for replacement if needed

ball valve and coupling for every bulkhead so the connection can be remove for service if needed

also, i plan to test out everything in the garage first, i need a way to remove the pluming before transferring the tank inside for final setup

i am sure you still have some room left to keep fresh frozen fish food in the freezer compartment right? =)

definitely better than just having a chiller

KarenM

Pet partners in round rock tank does have sump and skimmer below

I have seen their set up below, also, any tank with an overflow box will have a sump of some type hidden some where =)

on my 29gal + 20gal sum, i used to change every week, %10, but now I do %20 every 2 weeks. I also only feed the tank every other day, i like to keep them on a diet ;-)

I think depend on your bio load and the water volume you that have, then do some trial by error by constantly test your water quality for a few week, and figure out what work best for you.

Change 1/2 the amount more often or 2x the amount less often is up to you. Find what the longest time you can run w/o effecting water quality level too much, and stick to a STRICT schedule of water change. If you see stuff are not growing as you like or water quality of not consistent, then step up the schedule

You want to spent a little longer time to clean the tank, equipment and i also vacuum the sand. Personally, i rather spend longer time and clean everything really well than spend a little bit of time and do everything haft *ss. Beside, my wife will kill me if I spend 2 hrs+ cleaning and changing water every week ha ha. Then it will be a long time for any one to change the water

I do run skimmer 24 hrs a day.

Regards

Anh

The one I have is pretty much useless unless I can get it set right, which a good percent of the time I can't. Plus I'd like to cut down on the equip without an under the tank sump. Partners in Round Rock has a huge tank going on nothing but a sump/fuge. Granted the larger tank is probably easier to do than my my little one but I'd kind of like to be as "natural" as possible, though that may end up taking someone much more advanced than a beginner like me. Just about anyone can keep a tank in good shape with all the technology and equipment out there, but wouldn't it be better for the fish to keep it naturally?

Thank you Entropy.

I understand the Herbie method and the risk of closing the valve to control the flow rate

The idea here is really matching the flow rate of the drain to the return pump, as long as the return pump is close to equal or faster than the drain, then you don't even have to close the valve on the Herbie method at all, or close it just slightly

(I am planning to use a powerfull pump Iwaki 40 forgot the exact XXXX model, the one with high head pressure rate)

And as long as the return chamber water capacity lesser than the tank highest water line when the drain valve is completely closed then there is no risk of overflow. (pump will shut off with sensor level by my own micro-controller unit anyway)

if the pump is faster or equal than the drain rate, then a T off needed at the pump output to reduce the flow rate and control the Herbie valve at the pump output w/o no risk at all

Thus, as long as I power loss test and valve shut off test and they both pass, then no risk of overflow (I will have the overflow box to contain the water level)

==> as long as the over flow box does not leak also =)

That bring to the next question, how do you use to glue the corner overflow box to the tank?

just use a lot of aquarium sealant? how about underwater epoxy (2 part liquid form) then aquarium sealant on edges, both side? what do you use?

I DO NOT recommend using a ball valve on the drain. Basically what you are doing is matching the drains ability to drain to how much the return pump will pump. The only problem with that is that if something gets in the drain (and it doesn't have to be much) you slow the drain down further and flood the tank. I would only use this method if you have an emergency drain in reserve (example would be using both holes on a standard RR tank for drains instead of one return).

thank you everyone, i know what it is, then i can research some more to better understand them.

I'll look into the Urchin info.

as long as they are not red slime thing.

i am setting up a bigger tank, and on my existing tank, i have a lot of these red/purple algea?? growing on the glass and rock as you can see in the pictures below

ID this for me and tell me how to reduce or get rid of it. i see them on a lot on other reef tank pictures before, but I also have seen set up without them at the fish store.

is this red slime/cyano bacteria?

this red calcium like deposite consume a lot of my time, cleaning, scraping the glass etc, can't imagine what i will do with the new tank 125gal (this tank is 29 gal, 1 yr old)

thanks, Anh

Thanks James.

I also found this stuff today, just information for others

Tank Overflows set up for drilled tank:

Herbie method - control the water level with ball valve, add a strainer for safety (ie snail guard)

Make sure water always above the drain, then no air --> no noise

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=344892

or Durso setup -->allow noise to escape through the top

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69372

This methods applied to both bottom and back wall hole

==> my case, the drain hole is deep enough in the tank, i can do with either method (with durso, i will have to extend the air escape pipe to over the top of the tank, or maybe a combination of them ha ha

some more pix

hey James, do you by any chance have a picture of your final setup with respect to the durso pipe?I am not sure how to visualize durso on the back wall drain hole

I called Oceanic as you recommend, they said all of their 100+gal tank for sure has no temper back I ordered 38mm and 60mm diamond bit from ebay user "lau", from china, cost a few bucks, not worth mention (this is for 3/4"and 1.5" standard bulkhead)

here are some picture of my drill set up, since there is no way i can flip the tank to the side by myself

I set my drill for medium speed with lowest torque, but this is a Dewalt drill, so it's really strong

the 60mm only do 2 holes on 1/2"glass, with a little life left , i don't think i can make another hole, similar with the 3/4"bit, figured about 3 holes max using these cheap bit, even they advertise to drill 10+ hole, maybe on 1/4" glass ha ha

average 30-45 min per hole

i drilled almost non stop, just stop here and there to rest my hand ,check the depth, and slide the bit in and out to make sure the path is clean and straight --> see pic for my setup, constant water flow to the bit, does not even get warm and clean

word of advise, drill fast but don't push on the bit constantly, especially when close to get to the other, patient is virture, slow down as you about to get through to the other side, so the glass does not break at the opening. also, practice drill one hole on the spare glass so get the hang of it. I have never drill glass before, and it does not seem too hard at all, just 45min hole the drill is bit much.

there are many threads on RC on step by step drilling, just basically angle the bit and make a mark the glass so the drill does not slip all over the place.

here are some pictures of the final product

pix

cooling hole on top is the waste water sent from reverse osmosis setup, i just turn the valve 1/2 way on the RO unit and take the drain water to use as cooling water for drill

pix

picture showed the splash cover hold to the tank by masking tape, i soon realized that masking tape and water does not mix, so i use packing clear tape

pix

first hole, all the masking tape fall a part after the first hole done, next hole is much better, use packing tape instead =),

you can see the canopy i built on the other side of the tank ;-)

top left 1.5" is close loop intake, the bottom 2 holes are for a rock rack return, and 2 more return going over the top on both sides (was gonna drill holes on the back tank also, but lazyness may have given me a better option of return over the top), CL will be powered by iwaki 30 and OM quirt -->Goals: CL with low power pump install behind tank and total random water motion with the rock rack and 2 extra overtop return

(i got the rock rack idea from a few tank build thread on RC where water will be flow out from under the rock)

NOW, what is the proper way to install bulkhead, to silicon or not, maybe just a bit between the glass hole and the body of the bulkhead before secure the nut?

hello,

i just finished drill 5 holes on the back of a 125gal tank (1/2" glass) for sump drain (1.5"), CL drain(1.5"), return(3/4"), close loop (3/4"), 2 more CL return over the top of tank power by ocean motion 4way.

making an overflow baffle box after i figure out this question: does the drain from back wall behind overflow box get noisy?

i read up on durso stand pipe etc..., but most set up for this is for drain to the bottom of tank, not sure what needed for my case

headless_donkey's tank has back wall overflow, not sure if he has any thing add in for noise or just the hole

thanks in advance, will post pics of the build up when i get a chance

Anh

thank you everyone.

I do have the blow torch for pluming welding, maybe a bit big

I understand what you are saying about bending around a metal stand of a 29 gal (great idea btw)

why did i think of that ha ha ;-)

I'll give it a try this weekend

Regards

Anh

next drill glass, i got all the drill bits ha ha

back panel is not tempered ;-)

I am building an over flow for my new 125 gal tank set up

I need help to bend a 24" x 12" plexi-glass (just 1 fold, nothing complex)

I read up on heat gun and heat strip methods ..etc., but I just need to bend 1 corner, not sure if it worth the trouble buying a heat gun to use it one time.

thus, I am looking for someone that have done this or have a way to bend this to help me out

thanks. Anh

i have a lot of laptop memory PC2700 and PC5300 in 1G size, laptop Sata drives, and USB bar code scanner, xbox games

if you are interested. Sorry, can trade my receiver, my wife will kill me ha ha

I got a brand new metal halide 70W ballast (coil type) with starter, and socket for sale $20

pick up only (north austin)

i got it but never try it, I also have a 70W industrial bulb also (brand new)-> free, probably not the right color for the tank anyway

email "[email protected]" or msg me here.

Anh

this is how i do it: (may not work for the tang, since i think they go in hiding when the light is off)

but normally:

-to catch a fish, turn the light off, ie the tank light,

- you can have a dim room light so you can see where everything is

-carry a small flash light, locate the fish, turn on the flash light aim at the fish

- then scoop it up

you got about 5 sec or less to do so, since the fish is temporaly disoriented by the light

=)

I used this method, seem to work much better than chasing the fish around.

good luck

Updates on the tank:

I am a terrible diagnostician. The purple tang is healthy; swimming and grazing happily. I think she was actually agro at me by constantly trying to take her picture. The lawnmower blenny is my latest issue since he doesn't eat too much and is getting skinny- getting cleaned often by the skunk cleaner shrimp.

So... my tank is still healthy (knock wood) and the animals are still happy. I am keeping my fingers crossed but so far, so good.

you got ich, me too, **** it,

tank is only 1 month old

got to move nemo to the quarantine tank now

i got the bad feeling when i add that 6line wasspe in the tank w/o putting it in quarantine

4-6 week quarantine, oh man, i can't wait to get home putting the fish in the tank not alone 6 weeks

now, the wasspe is dead, the blue tang went with it (maybe do do amnonia strike and my skimmer when on crazy on that day, now nemo has ich)

the tank and the 6line showed ich for a few days and it gone, i though that is it, then it come back

I forgot to read up on marine disease, being a newbies and all.

last fish in the tank, i am taking it out to the hospital tank and try to do low salt quarantine method

keep my finger cross. Sad sad sad, live and learn.

Oh well, i think i can look at the coral only tank for 6 more weeks (no fish in the main display for me until this ich clear up

Our yellow clown goby that we just put in the tank has ich. We have a quarantine tank(that we didn't use, fantastic). What should we do? I have read it could be caused by stress, but I do not want to risk the health of the other fish.

Thanks, I picked some up at River City.

will see if my spaghetti sauce turn out ok ;-)

This is true, but in the case that they want to culture their own, I'd suggest talking to Bmwaaron - he's buddies with "Melev" and raises his own for his tank too.

hello, I have pretty new tank, it has been up for 3 weeks now, I'd like some Zoos, prefer a little bit of various color (mainly green/blue) My tank has several type of coral and polys now, but nothing is blue ha ha. Look depressing, the hippo blue tang is the only blue thing moving around

I want to culture live Phytoplankton per Melev website http://www.melevsreef.com/phytoplankton.html

But so far, I can't find DT Live Phytoplankton sell anywhere in LFS store around austin area. I need to get get a small cup of Phytoplankton as a starter

Regards,

Anh

Thanks for the cheato too

they are on 16/8HR light now

I am making a big array of LED, will see if they will grow with it

I got 2 brand new 2GB Samsung memory module for : LAPTOP MEMORY SONY VAIO HP DELL MAC

PS3

These are the latest highend memory module for extreme application and game.

each module is 2GB

Samsung PC2-5300S 555-12-ZZ

200pin module.

P/N M470T5669AZ0-CE6

Capacity: 2GB / per module (total 4GB for 2 modules)

Price: $400 (each module) (make me offer, i will take offer)

shipping overnight: $10 if you are not around town.

if you are local, you can pick it up, i am in Austin.

[email protected]

Paypal accepted. I am a long time seller on ebay id: adang. check my feedback if you want.

other than that, I am starting a new tank, looking for some zoos now. got any to sell to me?