bananags

Update : SOLD

Tank is cleaned and ready to go. supper clean to be exact, i spent a good 3 hrs to clean it up. Great reef tank or fresh water, a lot lot of room to Aquascape, you can add a over flow box if needed. Tank manufacture : Oceanic 120Gal , thick 1/2" glass, build to last. Dimension: 48" x 24" x 24", include stand, canopy, and Aquatic 150 sump. Drilled and bulkhead for 1.5" drain and 3/4" return. Also has bulkheads for close loop (if you don't want to use it , i can plug it off for you) No leak, I have the tank for about 2 years. Local pick up only. Cash. $375 email or call 512-762-2900 Location: Round Rock exit 251/I35

SOLD

Don, here is a picture of it I am picking up the fish around noon today, I can't hold it in my tank because i won;t be able to catch it if I do that I will be around AquaTek area if you can meet (burnet/183), because if you dont want it, I am heading straight there and get store credit from them sorry, that is what they sent me, not a close up. the tang is about 6" Regards, Anh my cell 762-2900

sorry, the fish has been in the tank for a long time, it's a big fish. that is what my friend wanted for it.

Correction-- the tang is: Double Saddle Butterfly it's a pretty big in size, very healthy, moving, so he has to sell it. i took the other fishes, but just don't have any more room.

copperband butterfly tang and chocolate star fish selling for a friend: -taking down is his tank and would like to sell a copperband butterfly tang and chocolate star fish both are big (4-5" at least)- 2 years old need to sell quick if not, i will turn them in to fish store. I am picking up the fish this Wednesday, if I can't find a home for it, I will bring it to the fish store for credit. $50 both or ($35 copperband and $25 for star fish if sell separate) PM or email "[email protected]" Location - Austin.

> Good water flow in the tank to help distribute and remove waste in the tank. NO additive needed (assuming your CA reactor is tuned correctly to match the tank demand) Took me a month before dialed my home build reactor to match the tank level (learn process with the help of the people in this forum), during this time, i do have to add Ca or Alk on the side to even out if you ever get yourself into problem, just change water, that is the first thing to do. PS. i used to add just about any thing under the sun that look promising when I first start out keeping reef, all i can say is, it does more harm than good. (iodine, strontium, trace elements ...you name it)

dosing is because you are planning to keep corals right? if you are NOT keeping coral, this is not needed (also depend on which kind of corals) I was not clear on your original post on what are your plan. anyway, you already have your answer from Robb if you are planing to use a calcium reactor, then forget about dosing, it's a much easier route ( cost more up front, check for use parts ), like many member here, I also added some mg rock in the reactor, to give the tank everything that it needed in one place. I dosed Bi-ionic and mg also for a couple years, but now think of it, i should have gone straight to the reactor from day one. Save time, $$ and tank is much healthier (I think 75gal is not a small tank, so CA reactor is highly recommend) It take sometime to self learn about the chemistry of the reef :-) at least for me, so take your time and decide.

depend on where you get your live rock from? online order or local or from someone tank? a lot of the live rock from local fish store already stay in the tank for a while already, they should be ready or close to ready, just probably goes through a mini cycle in your tank ==> 1 months should be good ==> check Nitrate cycle with test kit, once your ammonia and nitrate is really, low, I say 0, but hey, you don't need to be the exact, the wait is the hard part (after a few weeks at least ) then you are good to go. normally, you just pick the rock up, it should smell like ocean fresh, not like rotten fish, then you are good to go =) (no need for heater in texas, your pump will give out plenty of heat already, high temp ==> faster decompose and bacteria, raise temp up to 80-82, so if you can't get there, then use a heater. 4 of my pumps keep me at 82 easily , need the chiller in my case, just kidding) The length of cooking is depend when your nitrate cycle is completed. that is accelerated by good flow of current to bring O2 to the rock for growing bacteria, no light is just to kill off everything else skimmer or not, your call.

Just a quick update after a lot more read-- maybe it will help others in future -Corals consume alkalinity and Calcium at a fix ratio, ie Alk and CA are directly tided, can't change one w/o effecting the other, and there is no chemical for reef than can reduce these levels, just let nature take it course. -Magnesium has something to do with how well the coral absorb Alk/CA , need to keep Mg at some reasonable level (forgot already, but oh well, just need to know mg is needed, I have some mg rock in the reactor for this) Before start CA reactor, make sure Alk/Ca level of your tank is at the proper level 10kdH and 420ppm or what ever you decided. My first mistake, I did not realized this: can't increase Ca w/o increase Alk, and dropping one will drop the other CA and Alk level, don't really need to worry about Mg yet. --> if levels are low: fix by adding buffer for Alk, or Ca (ie Kent turbo calcium or similar) ==> don't use limeswater for this ==> you want to add Alk and Ca separately to adjust them individually to the proper params --> if levels are high (either one) --Unlikely, but it could happen (my case): water change or do nothing, just wait, your coral will consume it and drop it down to the proper level (there is no quick fix or chemical fix if the level is high, beside water change, but why waste the good thing) To fix my level, I used: magnesium salt, kent alk buffer, kent turbo CA, I wait for my Alk to fall back down within range while just add Kent Turbo Ca raise the CA only while Alk is dropping (consumed). measure 10dKH and 380 ca measured this AM, took about 3 days to get here. Also, running CA-RX on the a timer (YEAH baby, great suggestion) ==> now the ON duration of the timer is the amount of the CA/Alk feed to the tank, pH controller will take care of the rest. Thanks again for reading. now, I will wait and see how well the tank do with a Ca- reactor instead of dosing..So far, the coral has showed a lot of grown all direction since last week as I have been monitor the level more carefully. Anh

thanks for the response everyone. I am due for a water change, so I'll make up a bit more water than normal and try the water change Already tune down the effluent rate CA reactor on timer eh, i may look into that, save from $$ on electricity hee hee

hi, i finally got my calcium reactor up running: 7lbs korallin + a small amount of Mg rock Build using this plan: http://www.melevsreef.com/dj88.html I read a bunch of stuff on how to tune and start a new calcium reactor set up, but there are a few things that I am not clear and need some pointers. Initial level before reactor run: (using salifer test kit) ~360 Ca ~10.2 dkH 8.0 pH (tank) -Effluent set for steady Drops to a cup -Ph controller is set measure effluent pH level set ==> ~6.6 (cut off Co2) (Milwaukee brand Co2 controller/just calibrated) -Bubble count set at ~120/min From what I read, bubble count does not really matter if I have a Co2 controller, as long as I can get to the proper pH 6.5-6.9 level (effluent side at output ie second chamber) with my bubble count setting to melt Ca material, any adjustment to effluent flow rate will need to compensate with Co2 (i understand the concept, enough Co2 in the reactor to drop pH, let the controller take care of the rest) After 3 days run of the reactor: (steady, measure once in each 24hrs interval) ~420Ca ~14.5dKH 8.0pH (tank) ===> is the 14.5dKH level normal? if not how do I fix this? I think my goal was around 440 Ca, somewhere between 7-11dKH IF I understand this correctly, you can't increase Ca level w/o increase alkalinity Thus, if my system right now is at 420Ca and 14.5dKH ==> how do I fix this? or how to I get to Alkalinity back down to in the "good" range 7-11.5 w/o effecting my calcium level Thanks Anh

floating ;-)

Finally got it huge sump installed, almost didn't fit ha ha ;-) Thanks Craig, great work. The sump design we came up with worked perfectly, no more micro bubble for me, lot of flow and room for the fuge I added mounts for sensors and holder for pH probe FYI: approximately 30"L x 17"W x 18"H Anh picture taken right after install at 2AM ;-)