bananags

Dow chemical, the maker for DOW Flake (calcium part) for this set up changed their formula a little bit

that make it not the best choice for this option anymore

From what I got, the first character on the Lot no: on the bag indicate the year A -> Z

V = 2007

as long as you get a bag with Lot no: S, T, U or anything before V, then you still have the old Dow formula

I found several website online that still sell 50lbs bag of Dowflake for dirt cheap (include shipping)

just order a 50lbs bag, they indicate that this is before the formula change, still waiting for it to come.

What is up with what was made in 2007?

hey, I ran mag 9.5 on a 30gal tank 24hr/day, no problem

the complaint would be : it generates a bit more heat than other more $$$ pump, but work perfectly, maybe a bit louder (humming) that I would like.

so i looked up what a refractometer is but why do you use them? maybe i just dont understand, or its a stupid question, Sorry if so.

refractometer == quickest/simplest way to get accurate measure of salt level of your sea water.

you are mixing man-made salt to create salt water, so you want an accurate tool to make sure you mix the proper/consistent sea water every time. that is the use

well, any method of treat ich should not be done on the main display tank (because it will kill everything else include ich, snail, bacteria in live rock....)

if copper based medicine is used, that is hard to remove the copper afterward from the tank, so this method definitely should not be done in main tank, unless this will be a fish only in the future, not reef)

I went with hostility treatment (lower salinity level), no medicine, I think this is the best treatment, less stress for the fish and cost nothing. (you google up on the exact detail on how to do this. ie aclimate fish to lower salinity and back up when you are done treatment)

a clear storage container at wallmart will do, get something big for under $20

you need a hang on filter for another $20 at petco, then you are good to go, it does not take much for a hospital tank, just make sure add top off water to hold the salinity level and change water 10% or somethign once a week to remove waste and monitor the salinity and ammonia level regularly.

the main tank should be fish free for 6weeks to make sure no ich left, you don't have to do anything to the main tank, since w/o the fish host, the parasite will die of starving by themself

I know this is suck, long wait

it's really up to you, you can wait out and see, if some fish not making it, then start hospitalize the rest

but definitely don't use any type of medicine on the main display tank

any store in Austin sell Magflake ?

i know that anything made in 2007 is not good to use anymore, but I am willing to check the lot # data

it's hard to say what to do, if the water is good and the fish is strong, it normally cover itself (maybe)

if I remember correctly of the ich cycle, the parasite attached to fish host/ feed and detach from the host, go back down to the sand/rock, multiply, and go back to fish host, until the host die of irritation, that is why it's tricky, sometime, you see the fish get better and just to see it come back a few week later. cycle took about 4 weeks I think, most people recommend quarantine fish for 6 weeks just to be sure.

I personally i don't believed in method of leaving the fish alone and let it heal itself, as long as the parasite still around, it will find a fish attack, in many case, i think because of pure luck or something in the water that break the parasite cycle so they can't come back, and the fish was just healthy and able to wait until this happen. 6line, cleaner shimp will help remove of the parasite from the sick fish --> less irritation ie less exhaustion.

personally, i got this problem a long time ago when I first started the hobby, i added a 6line in the tank which wipe out itself and the bluehippo, after they died, i moved the rest of the fish to a quarantine tank and run low salt treatment for 6 weeks. (low salt break the ich production cycle by killing any parasite)

it never showed up since.

my sea hare still working on the algae he still make a lot of poo poo, so i think it is not starve yet

here is a picture of it, my dog heard there is a "rabbit" in the house and he is looking to catch it

wow, toothbrush good idea, i did not think of that, i'll give that a try (maybe my wife sonicare would do, just kidding)

anyway, i broke down and got a Sea Hare at RCA

So far so good, 3 days already, still have a few small patch left here and there, I think my sea hare maybe blind

the Hare cleans the glass, the sand, the rock for normal "good algea", but there only 1 big clump of hair algae left, that he/she keeps passing by and not see it or saving it, drive me crazy looking at him or her gliding by and total missed the only patch left.

the sea hare does eat ALL the algae any kind=)

I did not know how ugly is this thing, but he does look like a bunny (==hare) with the 2 ear sticking up as it moves around

The more I look at it the more I like it

the Euro reef 180 finally passed break-in period and run correctly, took me about 3 weeks for it

Hopefully, with phosban reactor and heavy skimming and new RO filter, so far, i stopped the grow of the algae, but it does not go away.

now just wait the rabbit do finish the hairy grass. i will eliminate this algae for good. keeping my finger cross

speaking of this DIY solution

I am trying to decide between:

DIY 2-part calcium solution using a dosing pump as showed in the link above

or

Set up a calcium reactor (I have a Koraline 40002 calcium reactor already, still need a Co2 tank and regulator)

=======

Tank : 125Gal, with a many SPS (still small), I am dosing 2 part B-ionic solution right now

-It will cost me another $200 bux to get the Koralin reactor running (ie Co2 bottle/regulator/media)

-I can get a dosing pump for about $100, not sure how much it will cost for the DIY chemical yet, guessing $100

Would it make more sense for me to dose the DIY solution or even dose ready made B-ionic solution than running the reactor?

Any benefit or disadvantage? between the 2 choice?

What do you recommend? I am thinking about selling the Koralin reactor, since the dosing seem to be more cost efficient?

Thanks

Anh

thanks, my turbo does not do anything to it, i'll stop by RCA tomorrow

I have also had hit-and-miss luck with using turbo snails to control hair algae.

(Sorry don't have a sea hare to lend out ... saw some on Monday at RCA).

thank you

The 3-4mm.

hi Gabriel, which size of the media do you use?

I am setting up a calcium reactor

(I have a Korallin 4002 reactor, dosing 2 part solution now)

I am a bit confuse on which calcium material to get? some say phosphate free, or other are not

And the one that does not say phosphate free indicate the have other "good" trace element

Go with the cheapest one or the one with phosphate free? Any added benefit from different material?

CaribSea Calcium Reactor Media

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage...ribsea_arm.html

or

Korallin Natural CaCO3 Media 3 kg

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewItem~idProduct~KL3511.html

or

KNOP KORALlith Calcium Reactor Media (Calcium Carbonate) & ReefBase

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage...a_reefbase.html

Thanks

Anh

I think i've seen these for about $10 at the fish store.

I am getting some hair algea in the new tank (developing)

So far, i changed the RO filter to bring the ppm from 8 -> 0.

I am also running Phosban also to control phosphate

I know that Nitrate and Phosphate are what the algae eat, so far, I am 0 on these, but the spots that the algae already grown does not get any smaller. I tried to manually remove them, but it's too hard

I am told that the sea hare will do the trick, but they it will start itself and need to pass on for someone else to use

if someone have one now, can I borrow it? =)

Thanks

Anh

thank you for the kind comments.

here some of mistake I made that maybe it will help others

(that i have been trying to correct in the last few week)

- need the bubble trap, the middle baffle should be at least 2" higher than the other 2 --> added after everything is up

- water return from the tank and skimmer need a long distance run before get back to the pump --> need time to extract all the bubble -> I had to use a filter sock over the return and skimmer to take care of micro bubble (baffle bubble trap can't eliminate micro bubble)

-don't mount the Iwaki or external pump to the stand --> lot of vibration --> noise --> I had to unbolt them and put on top mouse pads /foam cushion

-don't stare at the tank for more than 15min at a time

my controller

Drill the tank with Ebay diamond drill hole saw bit 45min/hole (1/2" glass)---> cost about $15 for the drill bits, i got 2 set from HK

Built the hood

Paint the back with Krylon Blue spray paint and make a rock rack with pvc pipe

Piping

Old tank and new tank

New tank view

Rock rack support

Light

Euro Reef RS180 Skimmer

Added bubble trap (not showed in picture in the sump)

Sump layout : several small things have changed since: added bubble trap, added filter sock and adjust skimmer a little bit (not showed here)

Fill in water

After Day one, moved the 29Gal rock and live stock over at 3AM the morning before

Day two, add filter sock, fixing the micro bubble problem, still need the skimmer to break in, water still not yet cleared, skimmer put out lot of tinny bubble, picture taken w/o artinic light

Rocks are set up so Tangs can run both front and back, will get blue hippo tank soon, I used to have a small hippo tank in the 29gal until the itch killed it. now i quarantine everything 1 months =) lesson learn

Disclaimer: I am no way an expert in reef tank, I set up the tank based on what I read online over the year and what work/does not work with my 29Gal (and what I read here on austinreefclub and reefcentral ). Being an engineer my day, I planned for everything (just in case). Tank was designed to allow me to replace any component anytime I want. Tested almost every case for leak and power loss that I can think off, so far, it's bullet proof on in my book =)

Thank you for viewing

Comment are welcome.

Few more thing to do:

-get rid of the bubble from skimmer (wait for it break in first to see if it goes away)

- the iwaki WMD40 pump is a bit loud/vibration for my taste, it's mounted to the stand now, I will try to put it on a thick foam instead and see if there will be less vibration

-get more fish in the quarantine tank and maybe next month, if thing line up ok, i will add them in the tank

Josephatmbimortgage: i'll visit you soon =) for coral

Here is what I got, some part are used, some are new, some i already have

Tank:

Oceanic 125G 48x24x24

Sump 29G

135lbs of "dead" live rock stored dried out in storage of 6months

70lbs of live rock from existing 1year old tank

Fish, snail, hermit crab, sps,zoo,acro..... from existing 29Gal tank

Pump:

Iwaki WMD40RXLT: Circulation

Iwaki MD30RLT: wave effect

Ocean Motion 4 way

Stand and Hood:

Home made canopy/hood

Oceanic Stand/ modified to add 1 door

Light

Coralife 48 Inch Aqualight Pro retrofit kit: 2 x 150W MH DE, 2x 93W artinic, moon light LED

Sump light: homedepot light

Controller:

Cypress micro-controller, code developed by me, tested on the 29gal tank for a year

Control Temp, top-off, pumps, feeding, timers, reminders, tank life....

Main Drain: 1.5"

Close loop: drain 1.5", 3/4" returns

Pipe/valves: lowes/homedepot parts, very few from online

R/O water with 3 x 55Gal barrel from Austin Homebrew.

Instant Ocean Salt

Not yet connected:

1/2 HP Chiller: not connect yet, for summer time

Koraline Calcium reactor

================

I probably missed something, took me 6 months to build this up, don't have much time with a 4 months new born ;-)

I thought your goal was: 250W total power

your goal was 250W so:

so you either go with 2 DE 150W bulbs =300W + UV glass or 2 SE 175W=350W (175W SE is also more expensive and DE bulb)

(there are no 150W SE bulb, and if there is they are hard to find, lack of choice in color also)

4R00P3R what is the confusion? if Karen power goal is 250W, and she needs 2 bulbs, so her best option is to use TWO 150W bulb, why does she need to run two 250W bulbs? She can, but more $$$ and more heat, i guess, coral will grow like crazy ;-)

Odyssa light electronic is NOT good quality, that is why the ballast need to replacement to a better one, I also indicate replace all the bulb also. But that apply to anything you buy used.

Ballast Model: DXE150HID1 150W is $50 at ballastwise.com , you will need 2, one for each bulb

The light fit in my home build canopy for 48" Oceanic tank. But the problem is that it's make the canopy too heavy for me to open it up, so I scratched the idea. If you just hang or sit it on top of the tank, it should be fine (no canopy), it has the legs to stand on any 48" tank

KarenM, I would not put 250W bulb in Odyssa fixture anyway, it's not made for 250W bulb

I think you should also consider Metal halide in combination with Artinic or 50/50 fluorescent light, that way, if you don't want to use the big light all day, you can run the smaller light also.

You need two 250w halides, not 250w total. You can run that by andrew, gabe, and james, but I'm almost positive. I don't know what bananags is talking about. I think someone is bananas.

wow, you guys have good eye, ha ha, i don't see anything

flatworm should be moving around also especially if you come close to it, they look flat and almost see through also =)

i use a long turkey blaster and suck them in one by one very time I see it, do this for several week. it has been 6-7months now, i they have not come back.

KarenM,

4ft tank will need 2 light, one is not enough to cover

Dual Ended (DE) bulb: you need UV glass (not safe for the viewer w/o UV glass protection)

Single ended (SE): has UV glass built-in ==> don't need extra UV glass

your goal was 250W so:

so you either go with 2 DE 150W bulbs =300W + UV glass or 2 SE 175W=350W (175W SE is also more expensive and DE bulb)

(there are no 150W SE bulb, and if there is they are hard to find, lack of choice in color also)

I have the same tank size as you, I went with Coralife 48 Inch Aqualight Pro retrofit, cost an arm and leg

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idP...3516~tab~4.html

(so bright, i probably can tan in that room)

But I also have another light that i don't use , you can get it for what I paid for $75, contact me if you are interested.

48" Oddessa 2x150W MH DE bulbs and 2 x T5 artinic with UV glass (I was getting this just for the UV glass anyway). The light is used, you need to replace the ballast for the MH (or replace the blow capacitor on the existing ballast), the T5 ballast is OK, MH bulbs are still working, but you should replace them also. I was going to replace the ballast before I sell it. (ballaswise.com has decent electronic ballast for this for cheap)

I don't recommend getting this light unless you are planning to replace the ballast and bulb anyway, that is my original plan

There is a long thread on Reefcentral on this light, and how they make it much better with replacement electronic ballast and bulb

FYI, you may need fan or somethign to keep the temp down during the summer time in TX running with MH --> which then increase evaporation --> need more topoff water

Good luck.

If I use SE would I still need the UV protecting acrylic? I'm not going for a show tank, just a nice pretty tank with some really colorful SPS.

question, is the Koralia you use on a wavemaker or some kind of timer?

some one indicate that there is a lot of noise and bubble during start up, so it's not the best thing if you on a wave timer?

(set for short interval)

thanks guys.

I went with the Mag-float 350 and the attachment scrapper thingy (just ordered). I think you are right on not leaving it in the tank, i need to start doing that. if this does not work, i'll try the algea free and use the Mag350 for holding seaweed clip to lower it up and down =)

-drill the back unless you are 100% sure it's not tempered glass on the bottom, most if not all Oceanic tank has tempered bottom (non-reef ready tank)

-drain should be 1.5" each (maybe you can get by with 1" holes , maybe not, too small) (personally, i use one 1.5" on 125 gal)

1 drain hole, 2 holes,... your choice, just need at least 1 hole ;-) , i am sure you need a fast pump to circulate the 180gal, so it does not matter, if drain is both side or one, they all goes into the drain.

-you can buy overflow box for $$$ (about $99 for one over flow), or make your own.

or just use a pipe up and screen like at the many fish store setup (90deg pipe to the back wall and run up to maybe 1" from surface water), you don't really need an overflow box to have surface skimming.

if you do this right, there is no more risk involve than using the internal overflow box

180gal, you really need to take your time to plan and test. drill is the only way to go for tank of this size

good luck.

Ok, so I'm assuming drilling holes in the bottom of the tank and having an internal overflow is a lot easier and possibly more quiet then having an external overflow. I'm not quite sure on all the mechanics of the sump and overflow, but I would love to learn more about each. I guess I'm questioning the set up of it all. I have a 180 gal tank and a 55 gal sump. My tank isn't drilled, but I would prefer an internal overflow. So to my knowledge, I would need to drill 2 holes, either in the center or a corner that'll have 2 pcp pipes running from the sump up into the tank and "spit" out over/right on the top of the overflow box into my tank. Is that correct so far? And this produces better filtration and water movement? How many inches should the holes be and where would I go about buying an internal overflow box?

Any advice helps! I'm a newbie Thanks for looking!

hello,

I just added water to the new 125gal that i have been working on for the last 6 months.. i know it's a long slow process for me.

Testing for leak now, it will run for the next few days with just RO water.

trying to decide if i should put on x-mas light out side or the fish light is bright enough =)

Anyway, what is a good cleaning magnet to get? I used the mag-float on my 29gal before, it's ok, not the best

I could use more cleaning

my new tank 1/2" thick glass.

What do you use?