bananags

Update : SOLD

Tank is cleaned and ready to go.

supper clean to be exact, i spent a good 3 hrs to clean it up.

Great reef tank or fresh water, a lot lot of room to Aquascape, you can add a over flow box if needed.

Tank manufacture : Oceanic 120Gal , thick 1/2" glass, build to last.

Dimension: 48" x 24" x 24", include stand, canopy, and Aquatic 150 sump.

Drilled and bulkhead for 1.5" drain and 3/4" return.

Also has bulkheads for close loop (if you don't want to use it , i can plug it off for you)

No leak, I have the tank for about 2 years.

Local pick up only.

Cash. $375

email or call 512-762-2900

Location: Round Rock exit 251/I35

all life stocks are SOLD

Thank you for giving them a home.

Updated

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here is what I have left:

galaxia : $20, goft ball size, this is one of the easiest coral for me to keep and nice, blue, everyone who came already have one or 2 already

montipora : $20, the rest of the stuff in the tank, free with purchase.

120 gal Oceanic 24x24x48 tank, with stand, and top (no leak) : $200 (has over flow, drain and 2 returns for Ocean motion device): picture is request, I have several folks interested in the tank already,

who ever come get it first is theirs.

I gave away damsels, star fishes, broken fragments, hermit crab, snails, all the food, test kit and chemical away for free already.

Still have some frozen food, free if you want it.

==========

PS: I have 55 gal food grade barrels, iwaki pump, Aqua light (48" 2 x 150W metal halite and 2 x 96W PC light kit, paid over $400 for the Retrofit kit from marine depots, and other stuff, if interested, make offer. I'll try to list them when i get more time, right now, I just need to find the life stocks a good home.

update

frogspawn, candy canes, anemones are gone

the rest are still there.sorry, I get so many calls that I can handle in a day.

first come get it, I have sold some other equipment also,just way too many things to list, it will take me some time to list.

forgot,have small red star fish and white star fish also (baby).

gave away a lot of the broken pieces/ snails, hermit crabs to those that came already. Thank you for giving them a good home.

After 3 year of having the tank, I finally decided to get out of this hobby for a while (have a small child), and don't have enough time to keep up with the tank.

I'll get back into this when the kid get a bit bigger.

So everything must go, I already shut down the 125gal tank, and transferred what i could saved to a 10 gal tank==> supper tight space

I plan to keep the 200lbs live rock, just gonna net it dry out for now.

For sale (please rescue these is more of exact term), I am not looking to make profit out of these.

Come get them, i don't remember all the name of these, I spend a good fortune for them before, $30-40 on them for a tiny piece

-2 damsel and one unknown fish (reef-safe) : $5

Big colonies : $25 each (about 3-4" dia) : big bird nest, frog spawn (multiple heads), blue gallaxia (i think what it called, goft ball size), monipora (large), blue candy canes, gray candy cane

Small stuff : $5 each (unless price different

Broken birdnest, frospawn head, white anemone (with red tip), monipora (broken pieces), green slime ($10), don't remember name sps ($10), Orange cap plates

free snails, hermit crabs with purchase... I probably can't remember everything, but I don't think the 10Gal can hold this much stuff for very long, so come RESCUE them

Need to be clean up:

120 gal Oceanic 24x24x48 tank, with stand, and top (no leak) : $200 (has over flow, drain and 2 returns for Ocean motion device)

Anh, 762-2900

locate in Round Rock

if I don't pick the phone, please email "[email protected]"

I probably available all day tomorrow, and maybe sometime today in the afternoon

Email: [email protected]

For detail.

I took a quick look at the set up, it's has a really nice acrylic sump below

housing skimmer (not sure what that is) -- running by Ocean Runner pump, and a mag 9.5 for returned

Please ask if they willing to part out.

SOLD

Don, here is a picture of it

I am picking up the fish around noon today, I can't hold it in my tank because i won;t be able to catch it if I do that

I will be around AquaTek area if you can meet (burnet/183), because if you dont want it, I am heading straight there and get store credit from them

sorry, that is what they sent me, not a close up.

the tang is about 6"

Regards,

Anh

my cell 762-2900

Contact: Patel

919-244-5541

So is 35 the best you can do? I can get it online for about 27

sorry, the fish has been in the tank for a long time, it's a big fish.

that is what my friend wanted for it.

listing this for a friend who is moving soon.

i know that asking price is high, but that is what they wanted, price is obo. moving soon, so have to sell.

(PM or email [email protected], I'll post their contact tomorrow, i left it at work)

here is the detail: fish only set up with live rocks

Not include fish

"125 gl tank ( as you can see from snap, no leaks, its a working setup)

60"L x 24"H x 18"W

matching wooden stand

approx 35 gl sump/refugium

live sand

live rock (50lbs +)

900 gph pump

2 heaters

protein skimmer with 2 pumps

lots of bio balls

1 reversible pump

1 UV filter

H.O.T overflow box

3 12" coralite 50/50 lamps to brighten up whole tank.

1 wooden box to carry tank safely.

"

location south austin (i35 slaughter lane)

Correction-- the tang is: Double Saddle Butterfly

it's a pretty big in size, very healthy, moving, so he has to sell it. i took the other fishes, but just don't have any more room.

copperband butterfly tang and chocolate star fish

selling for a friend:

-taking down is his tank and would like to sell a copperband butterfly tang and chocolate star fish

both are big (4-5" at least)- 2 years old

need to sell quick if not, i will turn them in to fish store. I am picking up the fish this Wednesday, if I can't find a home for it, I will bring it to the fish store for credit.

$50 both or ($35 copperband and $25 for star fish if sell separate)

PM or email "[email protected]"

Location - Austin.

Thanks for your response.

In your opinion, would a 75g with proper lighting, a good protein skimmer, a calcium reactor (w/mg rock), and proper water changes not require ANY additives/supplements?

> Good water flow in the tank to help distribute and remove waste in the tank.

NO additive needed (assuming your CA reactor is tuned correctly to match the tank demand)

Took me a month before dialed my home build reactor to match the tank level (learn process with the help of the people in this forum), during this time, i do have to add Ca or Alk on the side to even out

if you ever get yourself into problem, just change water, that is the first thing to do.

PS. i used to add just about any thing under the sun that look promising when I first start out keeping reef, all i can say is, it does more harm than good. (iodine, strontium, trace elements ...you name it)

dosing is because you are planning to keep corals right? if you are NOT keeping coral, this is not needed (also depend on which kind of corals)

I was not clear on your original post on what are your plan. anyway, you already have your answer from Robb

if you are planing to use a calcium reactor, then forget about dosing, it's a much easier route ( cost more up front, check for use parts ), like many member here, I also added some mg rock in the reactor, to give the tank everything that it needed in one place.

I dosed Bi-ionic and mg also for a couple years, but now think of it, i should have gone straight to the reactor from day one. Save time, $$ and tank is much healthier (I think 75gal is not a small tank, so CA reactor is highly recommend)

It take sometime to self learn about the chemistry of the reef :-) at least for me, so take your time and decide.

here is the thread on RC on the DIY wavebox, just in case

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1411393

I am thinking about building a wavebox using a Tunze 6100,6200 type

there are many website and you tube on this DIY

my question here is: if the same controller is use to control the same tunze powerhead,

why would one prefer a wavebox over just one Tunze powerhead

i guess, I am asking what pros and cons between using the power head as is or but it in a box, ain't they both can create waves in the tank? why go through the extra step to build a box around it

Also, if someone has a wavebox, please let me know if the outlet should be placed closer to the top of the tank, in the middle or below, or does it matter for creating wave?

thanks

Anh

I don't get it, how your calcium still 450 if your KH is dropping

they have direct tide relationship ==> something is using your kH and it's not your coral or calcification process then

I also made a big calcium reactor, work like a charm, but I was just tired of dosing stuff, after a few week tuning, i dont look at it any more, maybe once a week to make sure the level is still right. red/purple calcium algea is growing quickly over glass and rock, so are coral. Suck to remove the algea off the glass, but the mag float with attached blade does a great job--> just have to be careful around the seam ha ha

This topic has been discussed many time, search and read read, figure out the best method for your case

there will be some trial and error, can't take anyone word for it.

1- Low salinity (if done correctly, google Hyposalinity) - will kill ick and less stress for fish, but you have to have a QT to do this. Lower salinity to the level that kill ick will KILL everything else in your main tank if you do that in main tank

2-Chemical (copper...) all work, again, have to do in QT tank, I did not know if there is a proven reef safe chemical for ICK, but you never know. check around.

==> your main tank need time for parasite to DIE w/o a fish host, raise temp to cut down time wait time

3-Leave it alone, praying, keep water clean, UV light, garlic, 6line, cleaner shrimp, they are all "MAY" work ==> try a few if you want alternative medicine, (I tell you my 6line is the one that carried ick in my tank, that is the only thing I added in a year w/o quarantine, I know what bring ick in my tank)

it's like "western medicine (low salinity/chemical) or eastern medicine (garlic, pray...)" what is your personal preference?

I consider raise temp as Eastern medicine also, but it is proven to accelerate and shorten ick cycle, and in between, you have to pray that they don't find your fish and kill the fish ==> if the fish hang out long enough, it will survive.

Personally I did low salinity with great success, cost me nothing but time

But now, i quarantine every fish i buy for 6 weeks, dip all of new coral in coral dip solution, i don't want to go through this again.

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PM or email "[email protected]"

>iodine (kent) 1/2 cap full a week

>coral-vite (kent) 6 drops a week

>strontium & molybdenum 4-6 drops every 3-5 days

should not need them.

I use Salifer brand test kits, only test: Ammonia, Nitrate, Calcium, Alkalinity

That is it, I used the ammonia and nitrate test a few times to see if tank is cycled correctly, but after that I never use them anymore , I just figured out a water change schedule and stick with it. Water change will fix anything =)

I used the Calcium and Alkalinity test much more now as the tank established to keep up with calcium demand

This is just my personal preference, I have got some other test kits also, but just waste of money

not sure you have a sump, but that would be your best option for long term

I changed water every 2 weeks when i have a 29gal+sump, it gets old quick if you have to change water all the time hee hee

Good water source and all don't feed the fish more than they can eat in a few min to keep that water clean

=> even they eat the food, their waste also pollute water, I only feed mine fish once every OTHER day, for many months already, they seems fine.

depend on where you get your live rock from?

online order or local or from someone tank?

a lot of the live rock from local fish store already stay in the tank for a while already, they should be ready or close to ready, just probably goes through a mini cycle in your tank ==> 1 months should be good ==> check Nitrate cycle with test kit, once your ammonia and nitrate is really, low, I say 0, but hey, you don't need to be the exact, the wait is the hard part (after a few weeks at least ) then you are good to go.

normally, you just pick the rock up, it should smell like ocean fresh, not like rotten fish, then you are good to go =)

(no need for heater in texas, your pump will give out plenty of heat already, high temp ==> faster decompose and bacteria, raise temp up to 80-82, so if you can't get there, then use a heater. 4 of my pumps keep me at 82 easily , need the chiller in my case, just kidding)

The length of cooking is depend when your nitrate cycle is completed. that is accelerated by good flow of current to bring O2 to the rock for growing bacteria, no light is just to kill off everything else

skimmer or not, your call.

Just a quick update after a lot more read-- maybe it will help others in future

-Corals consume alkalinity and Calcium at a fix ratio, ie Alk and CA are directly tided, can't change one w/o effecting the other, and there is no chemical for reef than can reduce these levels, just let nature take it course.

-Magnesium has something to do with how well the coral absorb Alk/CA , need to keep Mg at some reasonable level

(forgot already, but oh well, just need to know mg is needed, I have some mg rock in the reactor for this)

Before start CA reactor, make sure Alk/Ca level of your tank is at the proper level 10kdH and 420ppm or what ever you decided. My first mistake, I did not realized this: can't increase Ca w/o increase Alk, and dropping one will drop the other

CA and Alk level, don't really need to worry about Mg yet.

--> if levels are low: fix by adding buffer for Alk, or Ca (ie Kent turbo calcium or similar) ==> don't use limeswater for this ==> you want to add Alk and Ca separately to adjust them individually to the proper params

--> if levels are high (either one) --Unlikely, but it could happen (my case): water change or do nothing, just wait, your coral will consume it and drop it down to the proper level

(there is no quick fix or chemical fix if the level is high, beside water change, but why waste the good thing)

To fix my level, I used: magnesium salt, kent alk buffer, kent turbo CA, I wait for my Alk to fall back down within range while just add Kent Turbo Ca raise the CA only while Alk is dropping (consumed). measure 10dKH and 380 ca measured this AM, took about 3 days to get here.

Also, running CA-RX on the a timer (YEAH baby, great suggestion) ==> now the ON duration of the timer is the amount of the CA/Alk feed to the tank, pH controller will take care of the rest.

Thanks again for reading. now, I will wait and see how well the tank do with a Ca- reactor instead of dosing..So far, the coral has showed a lot of grown all direction since last week as I have been monitor the level more carefully.

Anh

thanks for the response everyone.

I am due for a water change, so I'll make up a bit more water than normal and try the water change

Already tune down the effluent rate

CA reactor on timer eh, i may look into that, save from $$ on electricity hee hee