victoly

Takes 4 to make a breeding colony, purportedly.

Still a reduction of 20g on your (200g?) tank should only be a 10% reduction. That would be going from 1.035 to 1.0315 over a course of two days. IMO it was probably slow enough not to cause immediate damage. Now, as the way our hobby normally goes, combining variables can complicate things. Any other stressors?

unless you have a self sustaining population of both berghia AND aiptasia. , yeah, they'll die out. what I think is probably best is to get them until your aiptasia are gone, catch them and resell (or give away) to local members with aiptasia.

like 12 bucks a pop for mediums. They have a calculator on their website (reeftown.com)

FYI, if we make it to $300, we get free shipping. That's 25 medium berghia, and I'm down for 4.

If we don't make it, shipping isn't super expensive, e.g., for 24 it's only $50 for priority overnight. Looking to close this order by next tuesday, they ship wednesday for thursday delivery. I'm in south austin/oak hill but I can bring them to my office which is near the central market close to aquadome.

Most people have success. There are some fish that will eat them (wrasses namely), but if they don't have predators they can do a pretty good job of decimating aiptasia.

It looks like there are two different vendors, any reason you went with one over another kim?

Anyone want in on a GB ? Not sure on specifics until I see who all is interested.

cadaver rash, lol.

Got any pictures of a video of the stuff?

four year bump from the grave!

Agree with JimH regarding lighting. You're going to have some very dim areas with just two. Three or even four (excessive, IMO) would probably be preferable.

I wouldn't spend time with it, honestly. I'm not super well read on the chemistry there, but I believe that several of those compounds exist in multiple ionic combinations (e.g., ferric/ferrous iron). I was not a fan of the red sea kits for K/Fe/I. The detection limits, accuracy and test methods were subpar IMO. I have used hanna iron photometers, but they only test for ferrous iron, and I'm not even sure they're designed for marine use. Couple that with the hobby not having a great hold on what the effects (positive & negative) that certain dosages of those chemicals have, and I tend to stay away from trying to reach target levels of K/Fe/I. Water changes, and if you were feeling super diligent, a mult-compound trace supplement.

To each their own. I'd rather not have to fiddle with an effluent valve multiple times per week and know that my flow is right.

Consistency.

Most of the pumps on the market are either cole-parmer (masterflex) or rebranded versions of cole-parmer pumps (geopump, etc). Keep an eye on ebay, as they're really expensive new. Check to make sure that the tubing can be converted to whatever size you use for your CaRX, as most peristaltics use fairly expensive, metric sized tubing. Also make sure it's a variable speed and that its designed for continuous use at the fairly low speeds that we use our CaRx's at.

peristaltic pump

You control the flow on these by altering the speed of the motor, not with a valve.

effluent water from CO2 reactors are hyper saturated with alk/ca and precipitate readily on the outlet valve innards. this would not be the case on an influent valve. If a peristaltic pump is not available (best choice IMO) I cant reason why a valve on the outlet side is preferable.

i see it referenced with google-fu that it "improves the flow characteristics" to valve on the outlet, but no detailed explanation as to why that would be the case.

do you regulate your flow on the inlet or the outlet?

in spite of the carnage, it really looks great.

Filthy casual

What's your research area?

I've had a corner office since 2006 brah. My RODI at home puts that thing to shame

From what I can tell, mill-q's are just glorified lab-grade RODI systems anyway

We hold class here 24 hours a day, every day . Welcome!