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jaggedfire

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Posts posted by jaggedfire

  1. The 3/8 inch glass should take the tension, which I suspect yours is too Patrick. Bowing without the brace is .118 or less than 1/8" at the max deflection point.

    How long before the failure occured Grim?

    This tank isn't nice enough to be a high end DT, but looks SO much better than OEM.

  2. So I resealed an old Oceanic 75 gallon tank and did not replace the rims on top or bottom. The bottom is 1/2" drilled and the sides are 3/8". The tank originally had a center (approx) 10" brace that I have not put back in yet as I wanted to see how much the tank would bow without.

    After a leak test (all is well!) the center top panel edge bows 3mm. I have a long clamp on it right now for the extended leak test. I have seen mixed responses from searching but have no experience with this. All the online calculators state this combo of dimension and glass thickness is safe with a factor of ~3.8.

    I would love to keep this think completely rimless, but not at the risk of failure.

    Would love to hear others experiences.

  3. I understand that this product interferes with the natural nitrification process (macro, rock and dsb replacement/compliment), But I have have seen several people lately bring up Purigen and its use. SeaChem states that 1L would potentially work for 4 yrs in my 120Gal tank. Of course that depends on load and etc, but does it work? WELL?

  4. I have been dosing for awhile now and it seems to be a fairly high amount for such a small tank. What is everyone else doing? I was thinking we could get a running list of comparative data to help determine if things are on the right track for myself and less experienced members

    Tank size:

    Water capacity:

    Dominant coral type or ratio:

    Cal dose: and type

    Alk dose: and type

    Notes:

    Me first:

    Tank size:25 gallons

    Tank capacity: 22 gallons

    Dominant coral type or ratio: 50% SPS, 35% Softies, 15 LPS

    Cal dose: 27mL BRS #1 daily

    Alk dose: 36mL BRS #1 daily

    Notes: My alkalinity drop is 2.3dKH/day which provides for wild swings without automation.

  5. For the most part silicone wont bond WELL with cured silicone. As long as the glass to glass seam is strong, redoing the inside angle seam is fine. The stuff sets up fast, no doubt.

    I actually just got some new silicone in that is supposed to have greater adhesion properties that I will be testing today, but it is all speculation at this point. How long has the silicone had to cure?

  6. As long as the mechanical seam (glass to glass) is good, you can cut the outer 90* seam and redo. It looks like in the second photo you used tape but it setup too quickly. There seems to be a long bubble in the first photo also...beware.

    Dont be discouraged, especially if this is your first time using silicone. It is tricky and can be intimidating.

    1. I would leak test it first. See if it is holding water. This will let you know what too look for incase it doesnt hold. Like places where the silicone was too thin, not enough space or too much space between the glass.
    2. Next, if the seams are not to your liking, cut the corners out and try again. Lots of blades and acetone!
    3. After you set one seam, wet your finger and smooth the seam. This will thin out the silicone into a clean edge and remove excess. This takes practice!
    4. If you use tape, pull the tape at a sharp angle and before the silicone has time to skin over. If you dont, it will not remove properly and will fold over like curled ribbon.

    Technically, the 90* seam isnt even needed, if you have a proper mechanical seam. I will be flamed for this, but if you look at the high end tanks, they dont have the rounded inside 90* silicone seam.

    Good luck!

  7. So far we have 6. If we can hit 10 and be ready by this Tuesday, this can happen soon. Or if we dont have it in time, we can just ship to one location and distribute.

    1. ScubaSteve92
    2. Subsea
    3. 10gReef
    4. Pailines
    5. Funkness
    6. Jaggedfire

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