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Posts posted by jaggedfire
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Time for an update....the algae is melting away fairly quickly. The tips turn yellowish-brown and the stuff recedes or dies. Using the Magfloat in a well lit spot 5 days ago is showing no return of the algae. The largest of the bunches (nickel in diameter) is now down to less than a dime size.
Have kept Mg stable at 1600-1620.
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I'd like to try a 40 out in the 6ft tank. Anywhere other than ebay to find one?
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Did anyone notice any problems with corals during the mg treatment? I think I lost my blue ridge coral due to raising either too fast or bc of the high levels.
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Long story short....I lost all my sps/lps about 6 months ago after a move. I suspect the ph/temp drop that snowballed. Fast forward to last week and I grabbed a birdsnest frag to 'test the waters'.
I split it in two as it was pretty long, ~2 inches. Mounted one to a clean plug and the other to a birds nest skeleton ( dried for 4 months) I lost during the move hoping to see something different. Well, it is different....it is STN at a non-contact point on the one mounted to the skeleton. All other frag pieces around it are fine and healing super fast. In fact, the digi next to it is already healed to the old frag skeleton (same batch that STN).
Anyone else see this behavior?
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That is a big pane of/(in the) glass! Offroad is right, with it that big you will be applying some force to seat it together. And definitely use tape to secure while curing.
Do you have a spare set of hands to assist..or atleast some suction cups?
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Welcome from another "Kyle'er". You will find a ton of help from this team!
What are you wanting out of the SW versus the FW? Knowing this will help you through the process and others help you with your questions. Your desires for the tank WILL change. But knowing what you want is half the battle.
Good to have ya.
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What size tank are you repairing Ty?
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I have primarily done it sans spacers but is a bit trickier.
I have experimented with cured silicon slices ( let the dangling string cure after running a line of silicon, then slice with a sharp blade) and rubber bands on the last 1/8" of the edge of corners. Both worked. The silicone slices were left in, rubber bands were removed and filled in at the corner though just for my OCDness, it isnt visible after trim is applied.
Also, both need to be cleaned with acetone before use else they contaminate the surface.
While not likely to give issue, I dont take chances.
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I do have some GHA on the other side of the tank that looks more full and greener. The suspected bryopsis is attached in a central point with ~15-20 feathery legs swaying in the current. There are many of these attached to the glass. I dont guess I could be certain unless I looked under a 'scope, but the GHA has a softer fur like feel whereas the bryopsis more hairy.
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I use Momentive 103 or 108...same stuff, just clear or black and the strongest for the price.
Can be sourced at Grainger, Amazon or Ebay but watch the lot code for date.
I have sealed 3 tanks now, rebuilt one 2 times (panel chipped). Not so bad, but can be tedious on big tanks.
Ive cut apart with 20# mono in really close edges and use about 5 blades per panel.
Clean the panel first round with a new razor blade, then use steel wool and acetone to remove the residue from the glass.
Stage your panels before rebuilding and thoroughly clean until only a clean reflection shows and you cant feel any rubber on the edge.
If time gets by you before you can 'smear' the seam....DONT TOUCH IT! Let it cure, cut it cleanly and re-apply the inner seam.
Just don't let the glass touch and try to keep a 1/16" seam thickness between the panels to maximize tear strength.
When gluing back start with a single edge and 'roll' the piece on like applying a large sticker, else you will get bubbles.
If you do get bubbles, you can try to squeeze them out, to a degree, but can end up pushing all the silicone out weakening the seam.
DO NOT PULL APART and then push back together without smoothing or after it has started to skin over, it will make more bubbles.
If you have to start over, clean immediately with acetone to remove wet silicone....It will be messy but you wont have to scrape clean the piece 24 hrs later.
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Thanks Jestep. This strain hasent taken to the rock so much as the glass and any plastic in the tank, powerheads and eggcrate are the worst. I do have an 18w UV on a fowler that it seems to have completely disappeared on. Looks to be time to move it over to the big tank.
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I am fighting what I believe a bryopsis outbreak in my 25 (~5 months) and now in the 135...(1 month). I have successfully brought the 25 up to 1620 mg. over a 4-5 day period and the stuff seems to be contracting...almost disintegrating.
So I started the big tank on the Tech M but wanted to know your success stories.
One fallout I think I have had is loosing my blue ridge coral....the only 'hard coral' I had left.
Thanks,
Nick
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Dotybacks are full of character. Any opinion on a pygmy wrasse?
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I too lost all my sps/lps in this same way. Less than 8 hrs. I believe mine was a temp drop. This sucks that it has happened twice. Is it possible some paly/zoa spawned or released something on both occasions?
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PM sent
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I would be interested in the same piece also, possibly 2-3.
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PM'd
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I'll take it if you like!
Thanks!
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I just saw this. I will send some as soon as I get home.
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ah okay sorry guys i didn't know about that rule, but now i know.... jagged sent you a pm!!!
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Money talks
And the generation I come from your word counts for something. At least state 'wont hold' ahead of time without prepayment. Easy-peasy.
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Really? Even after agreements?
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I have a box running on a 135 I am looking to sell to upgrade. I can send photos this evening if you like.
Nassarius eggs; do they survive?
in Reef Keeping
Posted
Two days ago I noticed a few small dots and dismissed as water spots on the outer glass. Well I now have >50 packets of nassarius snail eggs on the wall.
SO within 5 days of adding my small CUC, they are procreating. Do these normally survive? I have had the small margarita type breed, but not these.