Wryknow

I bought this tank and light 4 years ago to use a hospital tank but never used it any of it.  Just add a sponge block from an established system to the Powersweep and a heater and you're ready to go. 

Great hospital tank or starter set-up for a kid or someone new to the hobby.

• Tetra 20G Tall aquarium ($35 Petsmart)
• Current USA 24" fixture with unused 65W Compact Florescent light (mixed daylight/blue) with a separate moon-light LED (these fixtures have been phased out in favor of LEDs but they still work just fine for growing softies and most LPS)
• Powersweep rotating head pump from Zoomed (270 gph) brand new in box ($60 on Amazon)

$60 for everything

I live in NW Austin (Jollyville)

Price drop

Price drop to $100

Sorry, already sold.  

AquaMaxx ConeS CO-1 In-Sump Protein Skimmer - 4 years old & runs like a champ.  Rated fort 175 gallons (light bio-load) / 90 gallons heavy bio-load - $110

I live in NW Austin

Tunze Comline Wavebox (smaller version) model 6208 with 7092 controller - All cleaned up, works great.  $150  $110

Tunze 1073.050 Silence Electronic Controllable Return Pump with 7092 controller - Best return pump I've ever owned.  Quiet, great flow, doesn't transfer much heat to the tank. - $100 $75

pics can be provided on request

Bump for new pics

Rock is sold

I have had a couple of nibbles but the tank is still for sale.  It's cleaned up (mostly) and ready for a new home.  All three heavy duty bulkheads look like they are in good shape and reusable to me.

65 Gallon Reef Tank (48x18x17 tall) and stand - 12mm Starfire glass on front and both sides (this is the next size thickness up over specification for dimensions.)  Back is painted black.  12: overflow in back left corner.  Plumbed for 2 x 1 1/4" drains and one 3/4" return.  There are no chips or scratches that I see on it.  All bulkheads and durso overflow plumbing included.  SOLD

50 gallon sump (48x18x13 tall).  Three chambers.  Baffle height is 9".  I grow tons of chaeto in this. SOLD

+ an inexpensive, open metal stand
 

The tank is 4 years old

Everything is sold.  Thanks for looking.

I have had this tank for about 4 years and haven't done much with it.  The wife wants it out of the guest room.  I'm just going to part everything out: first come first served.  I'm willing to take offers on bundles.  I live in NW Austin (Jollyville.)  I will ship any of the smaller pieces if you like (actual postage will be added to the cost.)  Please let me know if you have any questions.

NO aptasia, no valonia, no algae issues, and no other pests to the best of my knowledge in the tank.

65 Gallon Reef Tank (48x18x17 tall) and stand - 12mm Starfire glass on front and both sides (this is the next size thickness up over specification for dimensions.)  Back is painted black.  12: overflow in back left corner.  Plumbed for 2 x 1 1/4" drains and one 3/4" return.  There are no chips or scratches that I see on it.  All bulkheads and durso overflow plumbing included.  It's about 4 years old. $150

50 gallon sump (48x18x13 tall).  Three chambers.  Baffle height is 9".  I grow tons of chaeto in this.  I'll include the refugium LED lights (9 x cree daylight LEDs - no controller)  $80

48" LED Aquarium lights: 48 Cree LEDs with individual reflectors mounted on two separate 48x1x1 black aluminum heat sinks.  12 deep blue, 12 UV, 24 white.  Storm LED controller (all 4 channels are fully independently controllable) and power supply included.  Plenty of light for softies and LPS higher in the tank. Could also be a great supplement to pendant lights - $100 - SOLD pending funds to Isaac)

Tunze Comline Wavebox (smaller version) model 6208 with 7092 controller - All cleaned up, works great.  $150

Tunze 1073.050 Silence Electronic Controllable Return Pump with 7092 controller - Best return pump I've ever owned.  Quiet, great flow, doesn't transfer much heat to the tank. - $100

Tunze Turbelle 6105 Stream NO CONTROLLER.  Completely silent, tons of flow, fully controllable.  (Note that I am not including a controller with this unit and you need a controller in order to operate this pump - you can use the 7092 controller to drive two pumps) - $100

Aquamaxx Cone-S CO-1 internal skimmer - These are really fantastic in-sump skimmers.  Works great.  $125

Live rock -  3 big pieces pictured.  No aptasia, valonia, or other pests.  Some zoanthids and palys on the rocks.  These were some primo pieces from Marco Rocks four years ago, now they are clean, fully cured live rock.  Not sure of the exact weight - maybe around 40 lbs?  $2 per lb.

Roger at Aquatek had a ritteri that he kept alive for many years in the store. It was a very beautiful specimen but I believe it died when it spawned/split several years ago. If you want some good local advice that would be a good place to start.

If your tank is not drilled for an overflow I wouldn't mess with trying to install a sump myself. There are plenty of decent in-tank and hang-on protein skimmers that you can use; especially for a relatively simple and robust set up like you're describing. I ran a 30g tank myself for years with a HOB and simple compact florescent light. It was plenty good enough for soft corals and some LPS.

Thanks for letting me stop by last week and ogle all of your frags! You've got a fantastic collection My new frag babies are doing great too - 10 out of 11 are open and happy. Not sure what the 11th ones problem is TBH, but they are sometimes tempermental .

Perhaps try using chlorine bleach when you soak the tray after scraping them? The Army uses chlorine bleach to decontaminate vehicles and equipment that have been exposed to chemical and biological agents. Chlorine breaks down pretty quickly in the air so as long as you let it air dry afterwards the tray should be fine to put back in the tank.

I use a 3 chamber set up. 1st chamber is a 7" filter sock and the skimmer, 2nd chamber is the lit fuge, and the 3rd is the return. Both drain lines are routed to drain into the same filter sock (I use flexible tubing.) I use the bubble trap between the 1st and 2nd chamber to run bags of filter media (carbon, and GFO currently.) By main input would be that if you're going to run a macro algae refugium then you need to give it enough volume to make a difference. I would allow at least 2' of length for the refugium (3' would be better) for a 180 gallon display tank. If that's not realistic I would just skip the refugium all together and just keep the sump dark.

My goal is to not die.

I think that may be an unrealistic goal long term, but if you figure it out please let us know how you did it

I'm very concerned about the state of the bracing underneath that trim piece. It's possible that the top brace seam has given way underneath the plastic(i.e. separated from the front panel that it's meant to support) and that's why you are seeing the crack in the trim. If so, the front panel may be bowing and could give out in a dramatic fashion. Can you ask your firend to measure the amount of deflection in the center of the tank compared to the ends? If there's bowing in the center I would want to empty that tank immediately and replace or repair it.

If it's a standard durso stiyle then there are several things that you can do to quiet it.

1) If the water flow into the sump is surging fast/slow/fast/slow then you need to let some air into the top of the durso pipe. I use a small drill bit, add a small hole, see if it stops, it is doesn't add another small hole, repeat until the surging stops.

2) You can reduce the splashing noise in the sump by adding a 45 degree elbow a couple of inches above the sump water level and then running some flex tubing to the top of the water level so that the water slows down instead of crashing directly into the sump.

3) Durso pipe should be at least 1 size larger than the bulk head. If you have a 1" hole then you should use 1.25" pipe

I recently built my own LEDs from a DIY kit from RapidLED. With the solderless kits it was very easy and I was able to customize my light combinations, reflector angles, controller, and power supply. I'm very happy with it. PAR measurements were really strong - I had to turn them down about 20%.

3 to 5 times tank volume per hour is a good rule of thumb (don't forget to account for head loss due to the height difference between your sump and tank and also plumbing losses from right angle turns, etc.) I've always had very good luck with the E-heim pumps: a 1260 would be just about right for a tank that size. The Tunze pumps are good too.

I think that .05 is within the error range of the Hanna checkers too. You may have had a finger print smudge or bit of contaminant in the water that would skew the results .05. Low level phophates are going to happen in any new system as the rock and sand leach a bit. Stick with the GFO and you'll win the battle pretty quickly.

I can give you 20 gallons today if you need it. It's still a new tank though so I've got some elevated phosphates. PM me if you're interested. I'm in Jollyville and will be available after about 6:30pm or so.

PM sent.

Thanks for the tip!